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2011-12 F150 OEM Resonator Delete Solution

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Old 05-31-2012, 08:16 AM
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JUST AN FYI

this is not a direct swap in for 126" wheelbase(RCSB). you will have to add in pipe to make it fit with stock exhaust. I just got my delete pipe today, part number 9L3Z-5A212-A and it is 12" long. my resonator pipe is approx 18" long. I will take some pics showing the difference later tonight.

if you are just buying this pipe to add in an aftermarket muffler it probably wont make a bit of difference.

Last edited by MPETE; 05-31-2012 at 08:33 AM.
Old 05-31-2012, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by isthatahemi
So why is that directed at me? I was the one pointing out what you just repeated!

(JB was asking what's the point, although he apparently understood that reversibility was the point, hence my comment about him trolling. Anyone can hack up an exhaust system. This is a cool mod, but there's always some hillbilly who can "do it for a few bucks". I too have access to a welder and pipe......)

Mine part is in transit BTW....... I always hated chopping up an exhaust system to get the right sound.
I think I mistook what you were saying, sorry about that.
Old 05-31-2012, 11:32 AM
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MPETE - JUST AN FYI

this is not a direct swap in for 126" wheelbase(RCSB). you will have to add in pipe to make it fit with stock exhaust. I just got my delete pipe today, part number 9L3Z-5A212-A and it is 12" long. my resonator pipe is approx 18" long. I will take some pics showing the difference later tonight.

if you are just buying this pipe to add in an aftermarket muffler it probably wont make a bit of difference.
Given that you're missing 6", you may (?) want to try 9L3Z-5A212-B, which according to my parts list is the intermediate pipe for the 133" WB.
.
Old 05-31-2012, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by daninhelena
Here are the part numbers for the 2010 models with no resonator:

9L3Z-5A212-A - 126" wb with ex. pipe extension (chrome tip)
9L3Z-5A212-B - 133" wb without ex. pipe extension
9L3Z-5A212-C - 145" wb without ex. pipe extension
9L3Z-5A212-D - 157" wb with ex. pipe extension
9L3Z-5A212-E - 163" wb without ex. pipe extension
9L3Z-5A212-F - 145" wb with ex. pipe extension
9L3Z-5A212-G - 157" wb without ex. pipe extension

All of the above numbers are listed for the 5.4L 2wd and 4wd models. These will definitely fit the 2011-12 5.0L and 6.2L, but you may want to verify fitment in the ecoboost because of the flex pipe located ahead of the muffler. The pipe diameter for all of these is 2.5" with the 2-bolt flange, but the length varies because of wb.

Just an FYI for those folks (like me) with a V6. The part numbers do not work. I ordered 212-C for my 145" WB Supercab. It was 3.75" too long. I chopped and tigged it, and it fit perfectly.

On the other hand, the exhaust sounds like a million bucks. Throaty / rumbly, and how a truck should sound. It is only slightly louder than stock, I really only hear it at startup, and around 3000 rpm. I will be doing some dyno runs just for ****s and giggles later this month.
Old 05-31-2012, 06:54 PM
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I should add that if welding is not an issue, what you are really buying is the pieces that mate to the truck, so it will work out anyhow. For those who don't weld, get measurements first.
Old 05-31-2012, 11:26 PM
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For the record .....

9L3Z-5A212-A - 126" WB with exhaust pipe extension (length = 12")
*Courtesy MPETE.

9L3Z-5A212-C - 145" WB without exhaust pipe extension (length = 30")
.

Last edited by gDMJoe; 05-31-2012 at 11:31 PM.
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Old 06-01-2012, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by gDMJoe
Given that you're missing 6", you may (?) want to try 9L3Z-5A212-B, which according to my parts list is the intermediate pipe for the 133" WB.
.
that is what I am thinking as well. I looked at a 133" raptor resonator on the lot and it looks close, but its a 2012 with a res. I did not have a tape measure with me so I am not 100%. but who knows what a 2010 133" pipe will look like. it may be too long or too short as well.
the price differenceis $18 plus tax. I already have the "A" pipe in my possesion so I am gonna tinker around this weekend and see if I can make it work.
I was really hoping for a direct bolt in swap to see how I felt about stock exhaust without the res. I am about 90% sure I gonna put a different muffler on it, but I wanted to try it with just the res gone frist.

if I can make this work for less than 20 bux I will just keep what I have. especially since I dont know for sure if the 133"
Old 06-01-2012, 01:12 PM
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Good write up. I would add one more step that would make it a little easier. When preparing to remove the resonator, after the rear clamp is loosened and flange bolts are removed, remove the top bolt on the forward muffler frame hanger then loosen the bottom bolt on same hanger. The whole exhaust system will then pivot down at the front allowing easy removal of the resonator.. Reverse process after you install the replacement pipe.

Originally Posted by gDMJoe
Got busy over the weekend and ended-up installing the pipe today.


General ...
  • Easy, 20minute (or less) job.
  • Tools:
    • 3/8"-drive ratchet.
    • 3/8"-drive sockets - 15MM deep-well (rear band-clamp), ½" (flange bolts).
    • rubber mallet | large dead-blow hammer.
    • -optional- PB Blaster. *Like the Red-Hot sauce commercial - "I use that chit on everything".
Removal ...
  • The resonator slips over the muffler inlet pipe; that pipe has a pin on/in it that the resonator slides-onto (has a slot) and locks-onto via a twist-slot. *REP (Resonator Eliminator Pipe) outlet has the same set-up.
    .
  • After loosening the rear band-clamp, removing the flange bolts, twisting the resonator, and giving it a tap the resonator will be free and there will be a ¼" (or more) gap between the resonator inlet and the front pipe flanges.
    .
  • All that's needed is to pull-down on the resonator inlet so that the flanges clear each other and tap the resonator free.
Installation ...
  • -optional- Put anti-seize on all bolt threads.
    .
  • Align the slot in the outlet of the REP with the pin of the muffler inlet pipe and twist to lock it. *The REP will slide-in place without any tapping.
    .
  • Align the front flanges and re-install the bolts. *Make sure that the pipe doesn't twist and un-lock from the pin.

    NOTE: This locking pin set-up insures a nice, snug (under tension) fit and no exhaust system flexing at the REP outlet / muffler inlet. NICE idea FoMoCo.
    .
  • Tighten the rear band-clamp.
Post-installation observations ...
  • The resonator has a straight-thru construction. Meaning: The inside diameter is the same from inlet to outlet with holes in the walls of the resonator body (and probably some packing material). The means that it doesn't significantly impede exhaust flow.
    .
  • Sound ...
    • Idle - Slight noticeable increase in exhaust tone.
    • Normal acceleration (using say, ½ throttle) - Noticeable increase in exhaust tone. Mellow.
    • WOT - Exhaust REALLY cackles.
    • 70MPH highway cruising - very slight increase in exhaust tone. Though if you have the radio/CD/etc. on it wouldn't be noticed.
Overall ...
Just like the ROUSH air intake ... The REP eliminates baffling meant to address NVH (Noise Vibration Harshness) so if you like/want nice and quiet (especially if you tow), it probably isn't for you.

On the other hand ... If you want a slight increase in growl that's quick-and-easy, not much $$$$$ and won't get you in trouble with the DB police, this may suit you.

As for me ... IT'S STAYIN' ON.
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Old 06-02-2012, 06:03 AM
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I just read through this and maybe I missed it but has anyone done this with an EB engine? I am wanting to get just a little extra sound from my exhaust without making it too crazy. Also for the price you can't really beat this deal and its nice knowing if I have problems down the road and need warranty work I won't have to stress. If anyone has done this what do they think of it? Any sound clips? Hoping to hear some good reviews!
Old 06-04-2012, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by FX4ford
I just read through this and maybe I missed it but has anyone done this with an EB engine? I am wanting to get just a little extra sound from my exhaust without making it too crazy. Also for the price you can't really beat this deal and its nice knowing if I have problems down the road and need warranty work I won't have to stress. If anyone has done this what do they think of it? Any sound clips? Hoping to hear some good reviews!
You will likely encounter what I did as I believe the ECO has the same flex connector in front of the muffler, and I do not believe that Ford makes a part that is the correct size for either V6. You can still order the part and have it shortened like I did. The take-out is 3.75" for the 3.7. Prolly the same for the ECO if you have the muffler with the flex in front of it.

A little note..... I was towing this weekend, and I can hear the exhaust clearly with the window down or up. Under load the resonator delete really adds some volume, and makes it sound sweet.

At one point I had to pass some ***-hat that passed me and slowed down. Between the intake screaming, and the exhaust booming off the side of his vehicle, he got the point. But that was when I really noticed it, when it reflected off another vehicle. I would say it amounted to a 30% increase in volume from stock at its loudest point, which occurs around 2700- 3200 rpm.


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