2010 Lariat blows hot air on drivers side w/ac on
06-09-2018, 09:30 PM
#45
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Lh temp actuator
I would say your LH temp actuator is not working! There could be two things or one of two thing I should say. The actuator is going bad or the actual blend door inside the unit is stuck! Since you have a dual control there are two actuators,, the P/S is located behind the head unit (stereo) and the other is at the bottom on the HVAC. here is a picture below... this comes from a 2012 but I think you will find they are the same! PITA to work on but I think the part (actuator) is about 30 bucks. The dealer charges some pretty big bucks to do these especially if it is the internal door.. the whole dash comes out and is about 500 to 600 bucks to do. So I am not sure if you are up to doing it yourself but it would save a lot of money if you can!
I replaced the blend door acuator behind the radio.
thanks,
Roland
01-07-2019, 09:33 PM
#46
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I have the same problem on my 10 fx4. Replaced both actuators but drivers side is stuck on hot. I can hear the motor turning but nothing changes unless I drop it all the way down to 60 degrees otherwise all other temps are full hot 90 degrees. Did you ever figure this problem out. I’m thinking the actual door is stuck or it’s my climate control module . If you you can help me out and explain how to fix, that would be great
01-12-2019, 10:56 PM
#47
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2011 F150 Dash Removal and Heater Blend Door Repair - YouTube
This video I made shows ya how to fix it.
Its a crappy video but you will get the idea
This video I made shows ya how to fix it.
Its a crappy video but you will get the idea
05-04-2019, 07:18 PM
#48
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Big pita job.
I just tackled this today. Did the lower and upper temperature blend doors. 7.5 hours worth of cussing and sweat. Lol. Got it done. Getting the new lower actuator back I to position and 2 hours of trying to get connector clipped back into it was the worst thing I have ever done in life. But as I stand here now I can say it's possible.
this did help a couple of others but I will warn you that in both cases it did return. So If you find this being the case then I would repeat the calibration until it no longer works unless you either want to tackle this yourself or take it to a dealer. On the other hand since it is out of warranty you may be able to find a garage that will do it for a lot less than a dealer. Just ask them if they have done it before. I am sure that many garages have run into the problem as it is pretty common problem. Now if you want to try it yourself I could probably post the procedures. Let me know!
03-24-2023, 10:42 PM
#49
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Same issue! I mean exactly
I have searched this issue for weeks now and finally found someone with the exact same symptoms I'm having. Curious if you ever solved this ?
Ok everyone... I'm in a bit of a pickle here.
My DS heat was stuck on for 3 years, and I've lived with it, but now it's switched to cold... This is clearly a symptom of the lower failed actuator, so I purchased a replacement, and removed the seats, console, ducting and supports from the lower HVAC assembly.
The actuator came out without much fuss, and the new one went right in. I pulled the #15 fuse on my 2010, to recalibrate the motor and it still will not move from cold.
I've confirmed that the blend door WILL turn, by removing the actuation gear from the old actuator and rotating it open and closed, and feeling the vents on the drivers side go from hot to cold...
I've since replaced the NEW actuator with another, and I have no luck getting the heater control to manipulate the actuator.
It WILL control the passenger side when in single zone mode, as will the dual zone controller, however, the main temperature selection **** seems to have NO effect on this DS actuator...
Help!
I should mention... the actuator WILL rotate under its own power if I remove it and watch it, though it seems not to move in relation to the controller temp selection, just randomly and in slow increments at times... Generally it will end its rotation with the flat side of the spline facing in a direction that would be far beyond it's maximum travel...
My DS heat was stuck on for 3 years, and I've lived with it, but now it's switched to cold... This is clearly a symptom of the lower failed actuator, so I purchased a replacement, and removed the seats, console, ducting and supports from the lower HVAC assembly.
The actuator came out without much fuss, and the new one went right in. I pulled the #15 fuse on my 2010, to recalibrate the motor and it still will not move from cold.
I've confirmed that the blend door WILL turn, by removing the actuation gear from the old actuator and rotating it open and closed, and feeling the vents on the drivers side go from hot to cold...
I've since replaced the NEW actuator with another, and I have no luck getting the heater control to manipulate the actuator.
It WILL control the passenger side when in single zone mode, as will the dual zone controller, however, the main temperature selection **** seems to have NO effect on this DS actuator...
Help!
I should mention... the actuator WILL rotate under its own power if I remove it and watch it, though it seems not to move in relation to the controller temp selection, just randomly and in slow increments at times... Generally it will end its rotation with the flat side of the spline facing in a direction that would be far beyond it's maximum travel...
04-29-2024, 09:28 PM
#50
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I change the actuator that’s on the very bottom, the one in the diagram and there’s a trick to it where you don’t have to remove the whole entire Dashboard go to the passenger side floorboard get a two before and a jack and you just gotta jack up your dash just a couple centimeters very careful that you’re not gonna break anything if you’re easy and it’ll free up enough where you can slide the actuator out that’s what I did. It’s on YouTube.