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2010 Lariat blows hot air on drivers side w/ac on

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Old 03-21-2014, 07:04 PM
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Default 2010 Lariat blows hot air on drivers side w/ac on

My 2010 Lariat started blowing hot air thru the drivers side vents when the ac is on. Passenger side blows cold. Dual climate control is turned off. Bought the truck new & know the controls well. Any ideas?
Old 03-21-2014, 08:39 PM
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I would say your LH temp actuator is not working! There could be two things or one of two thing I should say. The actuator is going bad or the actual blend door inside the unit is stuck! Since you have a dual control there are two actuators,, the P/S is located behind the head unit (stereo) and the other is at the bottom on the HVAC. here is a picture below... this comes from a 2012 but I think you will find they are the same! PITA to work on but I think the part (actuator) is about 30 bucks. The dealer charges some pretty big bucks to do these especially if it is the internal door.. the whole dash comes out and is about 500 to 600 bucks to do. So I am not sure if you are up to doing it yourself but it would save a lot of money if you can!
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Old 03-22-2014, 10:07 AM
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Thanks Mamonti! One question. If it's just the actuator & not the stuck door, can I access from under the dash without removing it? Removal of the dash is beyond my skill level.
Old 03-22-2014, 10:44 AM
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I bought by 2010 this September and when it was on the lot this situation was going on. The dealer told me it would be fixed when I picked it up, and it was. The passenger side doesn't involve the whole dash coming out but the driver side does. He had told me the door and actuator were less than 100$ total but was 1200$ with labor involved. Now I had to wait to pick it up until it was fixed, but I stoped in to finalized paperwork and they were in the middle of working on it and both front seats were removed the flow thru console was removed and the dash was stripped down to the firewall. I'm mechanical inclined but theirs too many breakable plastic parts for me to want to try that. Good luck.
Old 03-22-2014, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Bser
Thanks Mamonti! One question. If it's just the actuator & not the stuck door, can I access from under the dash without removing it? Removal of the dash is beyond my skill level.
No if it is just the actuator you don't have to remove the dash,,, but you do have to take out the seats, console, and bracing. I would suggest a possible recalibration attempt to see if it will reset... I know that even my new truck has had a issue from time to time changing from defrost to vents and so on... but it seems to work 99.9% of the time so I haven't taken it in to get fixed *warranty*. below is the process if you want to try the recalibration,, but again,, it is for a 2012 but should be the same. I would also suggest getting the service manuals from Helm's if you plan on keeping your truck. It is about 175 bucks *dvd* but it has everything that the Ford dealership has or gets. the steps below can also be done by disconnecting the battery but pulling the fuse allows you to keep your clock setting and so on. So if you want you could disconnect the battery and leave it disconnected for 20 or so minutes and then follow


NOTE: The purpose of the module actuatorposition calibration is to allow the HVAC module to reinitialize and calibratethe actuator stop points. To carry out calibration, carry out the followingsteps.

RemoveSmart Junction Box (SJB) fuse 15

NOTE: When the ignition switch is switchedto the ON position, the HVAC module will initialize and calibrate theactuators. Calibration of the actuators will take approximately 30 seconds.

Reinstall SJB fuse 15. Turn the ignition switch tothe ON position and wait 30 seconds before verifying correct mode door actuatoroperation.

Last edited by mamonti; 03-22-2014 at 02:37 PM.
Old 03-23-2014, 09:30 AM
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Thanks again Mamonti. I'll try the recalibration & let you know how it turns out. Wish me luck.
Old 03-23-2014, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Bser
Thanks again Mamonti. I'll try the recalibration & let you know how it turns out. Wish me luck.
this did help a couple of others but I will warn you that in both cases it did return. So If you find this being the case then I would repeat the calibration until it no longer works unless you either want to tackle this yourself or take it to a dealer. On the other hand since it is out of warranty you may be able to find a garage that will do it for a lot less than a dealer. Just ask them if they have done it before. I am sure that many garages have run into the problem as it is pretty common problem. Now if you want to try it yourself I could probably post the procedures. Let me know!
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Old 03-27-2014, 02:51 PM
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Wondering if you had any luck?
Old 03-27-2014, 04:32 PM
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I also am wondering if it worked. my dad has the same problem with his 10 KR.
Old 03-27-2014, 04:39 PM
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This video I made shows ya how to fix it.

Its a crappy video but you will get the idea
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