2010 Lariat blows hot air on drivers side w/ac on
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gillysmi (03-28-2014)
#12
#13
Senior Member
#14
Senior Member
If by chance you don't get a new truck then you can replace it as in the video however you really don't have to pull out the dash... seats, center console, brackets in front and sides and then I think 4 screws and the lower HVAC section comes out which has the actuator on it. Or the other method is to sign the paperwork,,, take the key and start your new d/s actuator! I think the second method is a little less work!!!
Last edited by mamonti; 03-28-2014 at 07:09 PM.
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Bser (03-29-2014)
#15
I couldnt imagine doing it without taking the dash out as all the airbox bolts had to be removed.
Dash only takes about half hour to pull tops. Looks worse than it is.
Let us know what you do!!
Dash only takes about half hour to pull tops. Looks worse than it is.
Let us know what you do!!
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Bser (03-29-2014)
#16
Beer Run
Mine is going in tomorrow for this as well, though I don't have dual zone. I believe mine is the heat blend door. It only "pops" when I turn the **** all the way to cold.
#17
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Northwest Florida (Lower Alabama)
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No if it is just the actuator you don't have to remove the dash,,, but you do have to take out the seats, console, and bracing. I would suggest a possible recalibration attempt to see if it will reset... I know that even my new truck has had a issue from time to time changing from defrost to vents and so on... but it seems to work 99.9% of the time so I haven't taken it in to get fixed *warranty*. below is the process if you want to try the recalibration,, but again,, it is for a 2012 but should be the same. I would also suggest getting the service manuals from Helm's if you plan on keeping your truck. It is about 175 bucks *dvd* but it has everything that the Ford dealership has or gets. the steps below can also be done by disconnecting the battery but pulling the fuse allows you to keep your clock setting and so on. So if you want you could disconnect the battery and leave it disconnected for 20 or so minutes and then follow
NOTE: The purpose of the module actuatorposition calibration is to allow the HVAC module to reinitialize and calibratethe actuator stop points. To carry out calibration, carry out the followingsteps.
RemoveSmart Junction Box (SJB) fuse 15
NOTE: When the ignition switch is switchedto the ON position, the HVAC module will initialize and calibrate theactuators. Calibration of the actuators will take approximately 30 seconds.
Reinstall SJB fuse 15. Turn the ignition switch tothe ON position and wait 30 seconds before verifying correct mode door actuatoroperation.
NOTE: The purpose of the module actuatorposition calibration is to allow the HVAC module to reinitialize and calibratethe actuator stop points. To carry out calibration, carry out the followingsteps.
RemoveSmart Junction Box (SJB) fuse 15
NOTE: When the ignition switch is switchedto the ON position, the HVAC module will initialize and calibrate theactuators. Calibration of the actuators will take approximately 30 seconds.
Reinstall SJB fuse 15. Turn the ignition switch tothe ON position and wait 30 seconds before verifying correct mode door actuatoroperation.
Last edited by BillUSMCEOD; 12-29-2014 at 01:30 AM.
#20
Help!!! Cant get to actuator
Thanks for the info here guys. But Im having some issues. I cannot get the plastic manifold thingy below the airbox off that connects to the rear duct. Does it separate from the airbox? Ive removed the nut about the airbox on the firewall to try and get some wiggle room. I cant seen to figure this out, and theres not way to get to the screws and connector of the actuator without removing this thing. I hope the picture uploaded correctly.
Thanks for the help
Edit: Okay, figured it out. Theres a screw on the passenger side (now named the "M'Fer"). Ended up with a swivel socket and 16 inch extension to get it out. Needless to say but it didnt go back in... Wow, this was a job. Thanks to the posts here and other info. Works like a champ now.
Thanks for the help
Edit: Okay, figured it out. Theres a screw on the passenger side (now named the "M'Fer"). Ended up with a swivel socket and 16 inch extension to get it out. Needless to say but it didnt go back in... Wow, this was a job. Thanks to the posts here and other info. Works like a champ now.
Last edited by don91lx; 06-07-2016 at 08:10 AM. Reason: figured it out
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FX4_2014F150 (05-29-2019)