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2.5" Level Kit, What Size Rear Blocks?

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Old Aug 2, 2015 | 09:31 PM
  #21  
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Looks like an air gap there to me. If it was rubbing the tire, you'd see the wear mark on the rubber and on the Uca., are you sure it's not just hitting the wheel well liner, mud flap, or front air dam? Go find a steep drive way and go in and out of it while turning. Stop and look when you hear the crunch.
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Old Aug 2, 2015 | 09:32 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by redsony2


2.5" level, + 1.5" rear block. The 1.5" is on top of the stock.
Mine sets exactly the same. Nice.,
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Old Aug 2, 2015 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by stronger800
Looks like an air gap there to me. If it was rubbing the tire, you'd see the wear mark on the rubber and on the Uca., are you sure it's not just hitting the wheel well liner, mud flap, or front air dam? Go find a steep drive way and go in and out of it while turning. Stop and look when you hear the crunch.
Its gotta be something metal i believe. Not the air damn or mud flap, by now if it were they would be ripped off.
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Old Aug 2, 2015 | 09:53 PM
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You saw my post with my 2.5" front and 3" rear block. I still have some rake, which I wanted because I tow sometimes. I prefer a perfecly level truck, and a 2.5" rear block probably would have done that. I was on the fence about it.

Looking at mine, I agree with others that the extra lift probably won't help if your rubbing on your UCA.
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Old Aug 2, 2015 | 11:10 PM
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The stock 20" wheels with the +44 offset and almost 6.5 inches of backspacing is what causes problems running 12.5 inch wide tires. More chances to rub with large side lugs if you're running MT tires.
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Old Aug 2, 2015 | 11:35 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by PawPaw
The stock 20" wheels with the +44 offset and almost 6.5 inches of backspacing is what causes problems running 12.5 inch wide tires. More chances to rub with large side lugs if you're running MT tires.
What offset and backspace would I need to be good?
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Old Aug 2, 2015 | 11:43 PM
  #27  
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Default 2.5" Level Kit, What Size Rear Blocks?

Originally Posted by PawPaw
The stock 20" wheels with the +44 offset and almost 6.5 inches of backspacing is what causes problems running 12.5 inch wide tires. More chances to rub with large side lugs if you're running MT tires.
The other problem is that after adding spacers or going with +18mm or less offset to get those 12.50's off the control arms, you either better like your tires sticking out considerably wider than your fenders, or you gotta add extended flares ...
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Old Aug 2, 2015 | 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Wiggum
The other problem is that after adding spacers or going with +18mm or less offset to get those 12.50's off the control arms, you either better like your tires sticking out considerably wider than your fenders, or you gotta add extended flares ...
Could I just buy wheel spacers instead? I don't mind getting fender flares, was actually considering getting a set of bushwhacker pocket styles
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Old Aug 2, 2015 | 11:52 PM
  #29  
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ok , so let me get this correct . if I add a 2.5" spacer in the front , I still have to add blocks in the rear ? I just want to lift the front to be level with my rear . When I measured the front and rear at stock height , the rear is just about 3" higher than the front . I noticed a lot of you are adding blocks to the rear to get it leveled . Can someone clear the air for me . Thank you in advance .
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Old Aug 2, 2015 | 11:58 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by str808F150
ok , so let me get this correct . if I add a 2.5" spacer in the front , I still have to add blocks in the rear ? I just want to lift the front to be level with my rear . When I measured the front and rear at stock height , the rear is just about 3" higher than the front . I noticed a lot of you are adding blocks to the rear to get it leveled . Can someone clear the air for me . Thank you in advance .
It's all going to depend, with my if you go with a 2" front level it should be almost perfect level. Best bet is to get a 2.5" , measure the difference and add a 1" rear block if need be.
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