Lnstrqc85

Hey y’all,
Looking at possibly picking up a ‘13 Platinum SCrew EB with 63k. It looks pretty mint all round. CARFAX is clean with a healthy log of maintenance. My most recent and only experience with the. 3.5L was with my wife’s ‘15 Expedition. We recently traded that in@ 140k as it was starting to have issues with catalytic converters and randomly losing power/limp mode while driving. Replaced the throttle body, top fuel pump,all O2 sensors and was able to get another 15k miles before those issues resurfaced.

I’ve been looking for a 5.0L. However, nothing of value has come up. Everything within my area has been 150k+ miles and wanting over $20k. So this one has been the best one I’ve found so far but I’m a bit hesitant because of prior experience. If I do decide to go through with the purchase, what are some recommendations to do so that I can get the most out of the truck. I’ve seen a lot of owners with 200k+ miles and all they say is keep up with maintenance. Looking for more specific advices.

miguel.in.az

Oil changes every 5-6k MAX, run a good FULL synthetic oil. I run Rotella T6 in mine. (5W40)
Throw an OE Ford/Motorcraft thermostat in it. Aftermarkets don't work right and will cause overheating issues. Run Motorcraft coolant as well.
If you tow, run it hard or take it on a long highway journey. Let the truck sit and idle down for a couple minutes. Lot of people don't know that it's very bad for the turbos to cut oil/coolant flow while they're still spinning at 100k+RPMs after a long run in boost.
Keep the 3 MAP sensors clean, there's 1 in the tube right next to the air filter, one on top of the intake manifold, and one from the charge pipe leading up to the throttle body. You'll know when it's time to do it again when your fuel economy drops.
Jiffy fittings on the turbo like to leak a little bit, but it's often just a few drips. Kind of a PITA to do (I need to do mine still).
Other 09-14 issues still apply so be prepared for lead frame issues, trans lines, driveshaft clunks, blend doors, etc..

I know I'm missing a few things, but I'm sure others will chime in.

StoneTheCrow

I’d go every 3k on the oil… cheap compared to an new engine.

Missmy06

As far as I'm concerned, any EcoBoost engine is a 100k engine. After 100,000 miles they are on borrowed time. If you want longevity get a 5.0 or a 6.2.

Laminar

https://www.f150forum.com/f118/465-0...89552/index10/

We could also talk about the plethora of Coyote burnt valves - not something you can detect until it's too late and you're experiencing symptoms of low compression. And this happens on low and high mileage trucks alike.

Depends on the era. '09-'14 sure thing, though the 6.2 trucks are super rare, priced super high, and chug gas. Later Coyotes drink oil, so they're not the sure bet in '15-up trucks.

rdaley

My '13 Platinum has been a great truck, currently 245k miles. Here's a copy from another thread of what I have done with it if it helps.

I have had all the common issues with the Ecoboost but the truck has been paid for for so long its more cost effective to fix it and I've done some of the work myself. I think the truck handles and rides more comfortably than my Dad's '16 Limited so I still like to drive it. I've tried to keep oil changes to 5-7000 miles at the most. I drained and filled the transmission with new filter and added pan with drain plug at 100k miles. Drained and filled T-case when I did transmission and again when I did leadframe. Drain and filled rear end once at about 100k.Besides spark plugs 3 times, new plug coil boots once, shocks a couple times and the regular maintenance here's what I have done

Both upstream O2 sensors. PITA but did it myself
Both turbo oil line leaks fixed
Both turbo coolant fittings leaks fixed
Water Pump replaced
Vacuum pump leak, replaced vacuum pump and passenger side valve cover replaced at the same time.
Lead frame issues started at about 150k miles. I couldn't find an OEM leadframe so I bought the entire OEM valvebody on ebay and did the work myself.
Drilled weephole in intercooler. I think this really helps, I never had any of the issues, hiccups, misfires,etc. that have been reported in wet/humid driving.

I think cleaning the throttle body and all 3 MAF sensors each time I did the plugs was very beneficial. The truck still gets the same mileage it did when new, and idles smooth at about 650 rpm and runs great. But the plugs need to be changed regularly. Each time i have done it the gaps are nearly .040 to .045" on all the old plugs. I gap the new ones at .028" - .030" and it runs great.

I have not done the timing chain. I do get the rattle on startup sometimes, not always, but at this point ill just keep driving it and if it goes it goes.

Thats it. Its been a great truck

dsg2003mach1

my 12 is closing on 170k. Outside of normal maintenance like plugs and coils I've:

replaced the water pump around 90k (replaced belts and tensioner while it was apart)
turbo cooling lines around 130k
new midpipe due to failing cats around 150k (replaced all O2 sensors while it was apart)
cleaned the map sensors - ended up replacing the one in the intake as it was pretty oil stained but not sure it made any difference/helped anything

current issues:

looks like it has an oil leak from driver side turbo oil return - likely messed up when they did the cooling lines and I didnt realize thats what it was during the warranty period. Will replace those and the in-block turbo line oil filter as there is an oring on it that could be damaged.

oil leak from pass side - likely the vacuum pump and maybe the valve cover. When the valve covers are available again I'll replace them both.

Barry_Vee

3.5l is as smooth and powerful as the day I brought it home. Doesn’t burn oil, no cold start rattle, has original trans lead frame. Tows fairly light often.

Engine repairs made: new turbo boost sensor under warranty, Upstream O2 sensors, water pump, and turbo coolant jiffy fittings and lines.

Suggest 5k OCI w/MotorCraft filter and 5W-30 synthetic blend oil. Air filter, change fluids in trans, transfer case, diffs. Spark plugs and boots if due. Check tensioner and belts. Change to yellow coolant. Flush brake fluid. Let a hot turbo cool before shutdown.

2011 XLT Screw 4x4 3.5l 3:55LS

Lnstrqc85

Thanks everyone for chiming in. I was a day late as someone wanted it more than I did and went the night before just an hr before closing and purchased it.

The information are all useful in helping me game plan as I continue the hunt!

miguel.in.az

The post you quoted is exactly why the Ecoboost gets a bad wrap online. 5.0s are dog sh*t slow these trucks unless you put a blower on it, and they're not immune to issues either.

6.2s are unobtanium but are arguably the best engine you can get in a 09-14.