'11 5.0 Bogging Down
I have had two episodes similar to the OP. Climbing a hill, not towing, and had the truck start stuttering and shaking, power drops way off and cruise kicks off. After a few seconds, power comes right back and it runs good again. It did throw a code, something like an intermittent miss. Cleared the code and pressed on. My stutters weren't due to low oil. One happened before a spark plug change around 100K, and one happend with newish plugs. (Less than 15K).
I have a 2011 5.0 and it does NOT call for full synthetic. I've always run regular 5W20, and always run till the oil change indicator comes on. I've gone to 11,000 a time or two. 120,000 miles and very little oil consumption. I occasionally have to add a quart, and at most, two quarts between changes, but only if I'm doing a lot of towing. I attribute that to extended periods of higher RPMs due to lower gear use.
I have had two episodes similar to the OP. Climbing a hill, not towing, and had the truck start stuttering and shaking, power drops way off and cruise kicks off. After a few seconds, power comes right back and it runs good again. It did throw a code, something like an intermittent miss. Cleared the code and pressed on. My stutters weren't due to low oil. One happened before a spark plug change around 100K, and one happend with newish plugs. (Less than 15K).
I have had two episodes similar to the OP. Climbing a hill, not towing, and had the truck start stuttering and shaking, power drops way off and cruise kicks off. After a few seconds, power comes right back and it runs good again. It did throw a code, something like an intermittent miss. Cleared the code and pressed on. My stutters weren't due to low oil. One happened before a spark plug change around 100K, and one happend with newish plugs. (Less than 15K).
This is a well known problem. Do a search on 5.0 oil consumption. You'll be reading for days. And no leaks. Burning any amount is too much. This is the first vehicle I have owned in 52 years of driving that burned oil. And this is my fourth F-150. Wanted to make it five. But since even the '18 & '19 models have this problem in a big way I'm holding off.
LOL, you people keep telling me to research this. I actually own one. Got lots of research happening right under my *** for 117,000 miles. Including a replaced pan gasket. What you described is WAY TOO MUCH LOSS for burning. I can't answer what might be happening to yours, but there's something. I have no interest in a new one at this time, either.
I like how it calls for fully synth in the US, that's due to the court case that occurred about what they can legally call fully synthetic 
Anyway, from that quote of the service manual, in the US, you'll need to find something that states blend, or full synth, using GTX of PYB isn't up to spec in US for these engines, per that handbook quote.
For the usage, yeah, i've heard that the '11's and '12's suffer more from possible oil loss this way, but not all.... No way of telling when buying used, but short of an actual leak, this is likely being burnt during overrun, sucked into the intake via the PCV - i'd be tempted to insert an oil catch can to test that theory.
My 350z only calls for regular oil, with Castrol Edge in it (fully synth) it burns it on overrun, a considerable amount, when very hot, i used to see it for just a moment out the exhaust. Turns out there are thinner and thicker oils (within the same viscosity rating) Edge being very thin (low cST) Vs some of the other brands. You can look at their TDS to find a higher viscosity oil (still in the rated 5w20) and see if the usage drops any.

Anyway, from that quote of the service manual, in the US, you'll need to find something that states blend, or full synth, using GTX of PYB isn't up to spec in US for these engines, per that handbook quote.
For the usage, yeah, i've heard that the '11's and '12's suffer more from possible oil loss this way, but not all.... No way of telling when buying used, but short of an actual leak, this is likely being burnt during overrun, sucked into the intake via the PCV - i'd be tempted to insert an oil catch can to test that theory.
My 350z only calls for regular oil, with Castrol Edge in it (fully synth) it burns it on overrun, a considerable amount, when very hot, i used to see it for just a moment out the exhaust. Turns out there are thinner and thicker oils (within the same viscosity rating) Edge being very thin (low cST) Vs some of the other brands. You can look at their TDS to find a higher viscosity oil (still in the rated 5w20) and see if the usage drops any.
My “11 5.0 started bogging down about 10k miles ago. Couldn’t pass anyone on the highway. Had low oil light come on a couple times. Thought it was serious and took it in to dealer. All they did was change the oil and said I only had 2 qts come out. I always change my oil on time and I have no stains on my driveway. I was pretty surprised but that fixed my bogging issue. Yesterday started bogging again so I went in for an oil change and it’s fine again. No stains on driveway again so I dunno where it’s going either but it didn’t start this bogging thing until about 120k miles.
In case it wasn't obvious, the reason for the bogging is too high resistance in the engine, the oil is too low, not the oil is bad, if you're only getting 2qts out, then it's using the oil somwhere, and the oil level is *far* too low to operate the engine properly. What are these engines, 6/7qts fill?
It's obvious these should have their oil levels checked regularly and topped up accordingly, i'm assuming the low oil light is an oil pressure light? (correct me on that one please) but they're usually idiot lights, if they come on, it's way too late.
It's obvious these should have their oil levels checked regularly and topped up accordingly, i'm assuming the low oil light is an oil pressure light? (correct me on that one please) but they're usually idiot lights, if they come on, it's way too late.








