AlexTrainor

So I want to know if its worth it to upgrade to a double din radio over the 4.2 screen and get the pac dash kit or just get the amp pro and leave the 4.2 screen in. I have no use for android auto, i do maps on my phone. Only reason it would help is to provide a bigger back up camera screen. My planned build is 6x9 front, 6.5 rear, 10 inch rockford shallow sub, and a 5 channel amp. Also, does the stock radio turn bass down when you turn volume up? That would be another reason to get a new radio.

Wyo11Scab

iTrader: (1)

You will get better sound and more features from a good double din

tjcaustin

Pretty sure the radio goes where the 4.2" screen is now. Also, android auto (and carplay) is basically just a car centered UI/remote for your phone, so you'd still be using your phone for maps and whatnot. It's not like the ddins with nav/whatever built in.

longbedbob

Although pricey, I'm happy ditching the 4.2" with the PAC kit and double DIN Kenwood Excelon GPS unit.

The only thing I really miss on cold mornings is the temp display, but that's out of curiosity more than a real need for it.

Apple Carplay is better than Sync 2. IMO and with a good system the center speaker in the dash won't be missed.

As you pointed out, the larger, clearer back up camera is nice. I think it's worth upgrading for that reason alone.

FWIW, I'm ditching the Rockford Fosgate 10" enclosure in favor of a DIY fiberglass enclosure and JL 10W3 sub. I've found that my new system is severely lacking in bass.

AlexTrainor

Im debating on either doing the RF 10 sub with a pioneer 5 chan amp for a cheap build or going all out with the JL 13TW5v2 and a JL 1000 HD amp. So its either 500 or 2000 bucks.

longbedbob

My RF was behind the rear seat, driver's side in the same location as the factory sub.

I had to file the seat bolts down and cut away the jute padding but I got it to fit.

I powered with a JL JX500/1, which is rated at 500 watts.

However, the RF sub is rated at 200 watts. It's also in an enclosure that's only about 1/2 the required size.

I removed the RF sub and am in the process of fabricating a fiberglass enclosure to fit in its place. It's coming along fairly well thus far.

The JL 10TW3 requires .5 cu ft of volume to achieve an ideal enclosure. Using packing peanuts, I measured .46 with the sub, mounting bracket, and bracing installed. Even with the optional JL grille, there's still enough room for the seat to fully latch. It's a super, super tight fit though. I'm actually concerned that once I have the box finished and sub mounted that I won't be able to slip it into place.

But, hey, it's fiberglass. If it doesn't fit the first time, I'll remove the sub and cut away some material and patch.

If all goes well, I'll have a 400 watt, better quality sub in a nearly ideal sized enclosure. Total cost is in the neighborhood of $650 including sub, amp, and materials.

Anyway, with some blood, itches and a smelly garage it seems possible to have a hidden sub that makes more power than the current off the shelf options available that I'm aware of.