Sony Amp Bypass - Input Side Wire Codes - 2011, Sony, Sync w/o Nav
#1
Sony Amp Bypass - Input Side Wire Codes - 2011, Sony, Sync w/o Nav
Need some help figuring out the 'Input' side of this Sony 700W Amp. My truck is 2011, Sony Premium Package, Sync, w/o Nav.
I've read numerous threads and seen some pics on here too, and I've also seen the PDF wiring diagram floating around too. But nothing is clear about the input wiring to the Sony Amp.
I'm going to bypass the Sony Amp and use an Alpine KTP-445U Power Pack to drive ONLY the 4 doors speakers. While maintain the use of the Sony Amp for tweeters, center channel, and Sub. In order to achieve this I need to know where to get my input signal from (that comes into the Sony Amp) so I can piggy-back on those wires, then splice into the (4) sets of Door speaker wires. I already know the Output speaker side color codes.
Thanks for any help on this.
I've read numerous threads and seen some pics on here too, and I've also seen the PDF wiring diagram floating around too. But nothing is clear about the input wiring to the Sony Amp.
I'm going to bypass the Sony Amp and use an Alpine KTP-445U Power Pack to drive ONLY the 4 doors speakers. While maintain the use of the Sony Amp for tweeters, center channel, and Sub. In order to achieve this I need to know where to get my input signal from (that comes into the Sony Amp) so I can piggy-back on those wires, then splice into the (4) sets of Door speaker wires. I already know the Output speaker side color codes.
Thanks for any help on this.
#3
Senior Member
I dont think you can. Looking at the schematics the HU is sending 2 signal pairs (front/rear) to the DSP/Sony amp and its reconstructing those into the final outputs.
#4
Senior Member
It looks like it's just a stereo signal preamp. The processing is done within the amp to split the tweets/rears/IP off of the original signal.
http://www.intyss.com/downloads/2010F150AUDIO.pdf
http://www.intyss.com/downloads/2010F150AUDIO.pdf
#5
Senior Member
Joe beat me too it.
Either way, the KTP-445U is meant to amplify a speaker level signal anyway, so you wouldn't necessarily need to catch it pre amplifier, I'd assume that the Sony amp isn't putting out to much more power than an Alpine headunit.
May be better to amp the fronts and the tweeters rather than just the mids.
Either way, the KTP-445U is meant to amplify a speaker level signal anyway, so you wouldn't necessarily need to catch it pre amplifier, I'd assume that the Sony amp isn't putting out to much more power than an Alpine headunit.
May be better to amp the fronts and the tweeters rather than just the mids.
#6
Senior Member
Thanks Gator - I was looking for that link. I had downloaded the pdf awhile back and didnt bookmark it.
Glad I didn't buy the Sony system. It would have been ripped out by now anyway.
Glad I didn't buy the Sony system. It would have been ripped out by now anyway.
#7
Thanks guys for all the info! I appreciate it. Yeah I was wondering the correct implementation of this Alpine Power Pack. They guys at crutchfield were advising I catch the signal (pre-amp) and NOT cut the wires but rather just piggy back to share the signal.. Then bypass the amp (for just the door speakers), and continue to use the amp for its intention on the Sub, center, and tweeters.
But what you're saying is you think it's safe to just (double-amplify) the signal basically, and use the output speaker wires for the Alpine Power Pack? Is that correct? I wonder what the RMS wattages is on the Sony for the door speakers? Does anyone know?
The Alpine Power Pack is 45w RMS and my (NEW) doors speakers are Focal and can handle 60w RMS.. so probably safe to double amplify?
But what you're saying is you think it's safe to just (double-amplify) the signal basically, and use the output speaker wires for the Alpine Power Pack? Is that correct? I wonder what the RMS wattages is on the Sony for the door speakers? Does anyone know?
The Alpine Power Pack is 45w RMS and my (NEW) doors speakers are Focal and can handle 60w RMS.. so probably safe to double amplify?
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#8
Thanks Gator.. I called Alpine to confirm you are correct. There is no need to catch the signal pre-sony-amp. I can just splice into the speaker wires on the output side of the Sony Amp, and the Alpine Power Pack takes over from there. Signal is (not) double amplified either, rather the power pack negates any factory amplification and parses out (only) the signal itself for data.
#9
Senior Member
Haha, just what I was typing.
Remember though, you will probably just be amplifying the mid frequencies if you use the amp on just the door speaker outputs (I'm assuming the Sony system directs all of the high frequencies to the tweeter output). So, as I mentioned before, you may want to use two channels of the amp to power the front doors and two channels to power the tweets.
Shouldn't be too hard to try it out while you're wiring so you can make sure you are happy with the results whichever channels you choose.
Remember though, you will probably just be amplifying the mid frequencies if you use the amp on just the door speaker outputs (I'm assuming the Sony system directs all of the high frequencies to the tweeter output). So, as I mentioned before, you may want to use two channels of the amp to power the front doors and two channels to power the tweets.
Shouldn't be too hard to try it out while you're wiring so you can make sure you are happy with the results whichever channels you choose.
#10
Hmm, that's an interesting notion. I might have to experiment and see how that sounds.
Regarding the wire codes - What does Audio Amplifier Enable wire mean? I assume that is the 'remote turn-on' that I can tap into?
Regarding the wire codes - What does Audio Amplifier Enable wire mean? I assume that is the 'remote turn-on' that I can tap into?