Quick question: 2018 non b&o. Are the front door and tweeters on seperate channels ?
#21
I have no clue why people reuse the OEM caps instead of using the aftermarket manufacturer's specifically made crossovers for their own products. It could be the exact same results but I wouldn't think so.
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#22
One day, if I get extra time, I might take apart the passenger side and wire in the new crossovers...just with the wires on the outside...not actually running/splitting the wires, just to see if it makes a difference sound wise.
#23
Update:
Finally had time to pull the dash apart. The speaker wire harness uses 10 wires. The front doors and tweeters use the same output from the headunit .
So that's 8 for the 4 conventional channels, and then 2 for the center dash speaker. Thanks for the help!
Now I'm off to Crappy Tire to get a new soldering iron since my good one fell apart after leaving it on for a few days.
Finally had time to pull the dash apart. The speaker wire harness uses 10 wires. The front doors and tweeters use the same output from the headunit .
So that's 8 for the 4 conventional channels, and then 2 for the center dash speaker. Thanks for the help!
Now I'm off to Crappy Tire to get a new soldering iron since my good one fell apart after leaving it on for a few days.
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Tannhauser621 (10-11-2019)
#27
Senior Member
Or regular fish tape for walls, etc. works just as well if you have that already.
#28
I'd avoid running wires through the doors entirely. Get the wires from behind the head unit and split them for the tweeters using the crossovers. Running the tweeter wires from the head unit is stupid easy compared to trying to fish wires through the door molex plug.
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#29
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
I'd avoid running wires through the doors entirely. Get the wires from behind the head unit and split them for the tweeters using the crossovers. Running the tweeter wires from the head unit is stupid easy compared to trying to fish wires through the door molex plug.
Good idea
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HushCarAudio (06-17-2018)
#30
Senior Member
I'd avoid running wires through the doors entirely. Get the wires from behind the head unit and split them for the tweeters using the crossovers. Running the tweeter wires from the head unit is stupid easy compared to trying to fish wires through the door molex plug.
I've done this before. My current truck I ran new tweeter cabling all the way back because my amp supports active crossovers. At no point have I had to remove the HU or anything else under the dash for that matter for access to anything. Again, you'll have all the stuff you need removed out to swap the speakers in the first place so.....