black0utF150

I have an 18' xlt extended cab w/o the b&o (formerly sony) system.
I'll be running JL C2 650 components in front and coax in rear, stock head unit for power.
JL jx500D/1 with 10TW3 stealthbox
lci2 line out converter

What should I use for signal on my lc2i -do the rears get full range from the head unit?

Is there room in the front doors for the crossover blocks? I'm thinking of just running the factory tweets with the c2 woofer&crossover and not worry about the effort for the tweeter.

dhmcfadin

You really need to use the front channels and sum them. If you are going to use the factory tweeter signal for your JL tweets, you don't need the crossover in the door, just your mid bass. The crossover separates high and low level frequencies. Without the tweeter needing the high level, the mid bass will be able to handle everything the factory midbass handled and more without the crossover.

But, since you are using the factory tweeter signal for the tweets, I would grab your signal from your front door speakers and run them to your amp. Rears do not get full range that's acceptable for a front stage.

black0utF150

Thanks for the help.

Please bare with my ignorance - what does sum the front channels mean?

Also to clarify, I am planning on leaving the factory tweeters in. I was thinking I needed the crossover for the woofer to filter out the high frequencies - is that not true?

If I find that the factory tweeters aren't good enough, I can add the JL tweets with inline bass blockers, right?

black0utF150

Does anyone know a good spot to tap into the front speaker wires?

HushCarAudio

https://www.audiocontrol.com/knowled...g-function-do/

black0utF150

Thank you, very helpful information!

So.. If the goal of summing channels is to create full range... why would I need to do that if the front speakers already have full range?

To clarify, I'm running power to the speakers from the stock HU. I will be installing a sub amp and I need to figure out where to tap into the front speaker wires for signal.

I had another thought about the crossovers too.. It looks like the wire going to the fronts is split and also feeds the tweeters. If I can find where this junction is, I could install the crossover there. Does anyone know?

tenx82

You don't need the LOC, and you don't need to tap front speaker wires. You can tap the factory sub wires running behind the rear driver side door for sub signal. The wires are there even if you don't have a factory sub, and it's very easy to get to. You can use the WPT-1212 harness if you don't wan't to splice the factory wires.

A for the corssovers:
The easiest ways to use them is to either:
A) install them behind the radio if they fit and run new wire to the tweeter, or
B) run Speedwire to the rear, mount the Xovers behind the rear seats, then Speedwire to the front. Woofer wire to factory wire, new wire for tweeter

black0utF150

If I don't use the LOC, would I need to run a wire into an ignition on fuse for the remote power turn on?

tenx82

There's a ~6V remote wire in the factory sub harness. If your amp doesn't require a full 12V for remote, you can use that. Or, you can use line level turn-on (speaker sensing) if your amp supports it.

black0utF150

Where exactly are the factory sub wires? I managed to get my seat folded down... had to use a wrench because my strap for the release was on the floor behind the seats....

I see the factory ground, and a purple/black wire going into the defroster, but nothing else.

This is a 18' xlt supercab, 302a equipment package. Non b&o system, no stock sub. Does have 8 inch sync 3.