zeke7142003

I've got a '10 Screw with 6 disc CD and no Sony or Nav. I've already replaced the door speakers with 4 Infinity Reference 6832cf a while back. That helped, but I still want more. I don't want to change the HU as I really like Sync and how well it works with my iPod. I did the USB2 mod and ran the wires into the center console where my 160g jPod classic stays. I did the Ford Sync my iTunes upgrade and it really indexes my 25g of music very well. I'm now looking at using the PAC AOEM FRD24 to convert to RCAs back to an Alpine MRP F300 4 channel where I will then run wires back to the PAC to connect to the front door speakers, giving them 50W each. I will bridge the rear and run a sub under the rear passenger seat (150W). I have some good woodworking equipment so I have almost finished my sub box, I just need to do some sanding and then carpeting (MDF is really dirty stuff!). I know this system won't rattle the car next to me but it should greatly improve a very inferior sound system.

Largefarva

If you haven't already bought the amp, you should take a look at the Alpine MRX-F30 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...e-MRX-F30.html It's basically this years version of the MRP F300 (according to the guy at the local stereo shop). And it's actually cheaper. Just a thought. Its what I was going to use, but have decided to go a different, less elaborate route with my stereo. Good luck with the install.

rlmxracer

That Alpine is a great amp to go with. To get the cleanest sound you will want a line converter like Audiocontrols LC6i, MTXs ReQ, or JLs clean sweep. All of these units take the speaker level output and equalise the signal to a clean RCA (low level) signal. Yes I know the Alpine and other amps have line level inputs, but in my expirence you end up with the same sound you started with just louder. Amps only amplify the signal they are given. Good luck.

zeke7142003

With blood, sweat and tears I finally got the system installed. The Infinitys sound 100x better with some power going to them (50W to the front). They actually HAVE bass! I've got to play with the gains on each channel, the sync voice is now really loud. My sub box rocks, I'll have to post up some dimensions so anyone else that wants to make one can have an easy reference. I did break the scuff plate on the passenger side. Ford was even so kind as to leave me an open grommet in the fire wall to route power. I went with the MRP-F300 because it has pre-outs (in the event I may want to expand). I also used 9-wire to run from the amp to the PAC harness. Of course, I only used 4 wires and I have the option to expand later. Lastly, this installation is for young people. I'm 48 with a bad back and some of the contorting I had to do to run speaker wires back to the front was very painful.

ReSQDiVER

Zeke did you take any pictures of your install? I would like to see the box you built and how you mounted your Amp.

zeke7142003

Here are some pictures. I haven't put the end caps on the amp yet as I was going to wait until I got it dialed in. I used self-tapping screws to mount the amp board to the back wall into the center channel that runs horizontally across. That channel is fairly deep, which gave me piece of mind knowing it would have been hard to mess up and drill through the cab. I did not the carpet/insulation on the back wall, thus I can not fold my smaller seat and latch it in the "up" position. The sub enclosure is a down'fire design with about .60 cu/ft. I built that sucker strong using wood glue and screws. I've got some good woodworking tools which really helped.I'll try to figure out how to post a drawing with dimensions. I could not find charcoal carpet locally so I used black, no big deal as the box does not protrude any.

bryanj91

I would really like to see how you did that. I'm looking to do something similar to my 2011 fx2. Any pointers?