skeeterweeder

beidle99, Thanks for explaining how you did that. Did you tap into the Metra Harness speaker lines for your LOC and Ground? That way you didn't have to touch the factory wires right? Thank You. How did you run your remote wire?

Hobbes80

that LOC should be fine... I'd tap the rears in the metra harness at the HU.

I have been digging through the forums too and can't find the pinouts on the harness in the back... with the key on, you can use a voltmeter and check the wires, using the seatbolt as a ground, to find one that is hot.

That being said, if you are running an RCA cable from the front to the back, you might as well run a remote line along with it and just use switched power from the harness...

As these do, it is quickly becoming a bigger project

skeeterweeder

Yes it is becoming a bigger project! I don't mind running the remote wire to the switched power on the harness. Will that cut the amp off when I turn the vehicle off? If so why don't most people just run the remote wire that way anyway?

Hobbes80

That is what "most" people do... the HU has a remote wire... the advantage to that, is when the truck is turned off, the HU stays on until the doors open... if you wire in the back, then the amp would turn off immediately, if you wire to the HU, then the amp will turn off with the HU.... which I prefer personally...

skeeterweeder

I have been reading that the Premium systems with Sync don't have the remote wire in the back of the HU. That's why I was asking that question. I don't have the Sony Sound or Navigation. I didn't think they would have the Remote wire if the vehicle didn't come with a factory sub or amp. I guess I will have to look myself on the back when my harness gets here. That would be better for me though if it does have a remote wire on the harness. I couldn't just tap into the power wire on the harness.... wouldn't that also turn the amp of when the doors opened, since that's how the HU is powered anyway? Man I am feeling dumber by the minute. Just when I had it pictured in my mind, now I don't know what I should tap into for the remote wire.

Hobbes80

They have a switched wire... I believe the wire is yellow or red... don't quote me on that.... They don't call it "remote wire" since there are no amps to turn on. They call it switched power or accessory power... look for one of those, should be listed in the harness....

Power for any HU is 3 wires: Hot, Switched, and Ground.... if you tie your remote into the switched power you accomplish the same thing as having it on the "remote". In my experience the colors are Red, Yellow, black, in the same order as above. SOME times yellow and red are swapped..... easy enough to test with a voltmeter or even a test light... clamp one end to the ground, one to the red with key off, then turn key on... repeat with the yellow.... "switched" will only come on when the key is on.

skeeterweeder

Thank you Hobbes80 for your patience with me. I totally understand now how this will work. I will tap into the 12+ switched wire with the remote and I will also tap into the rear speaker wires with the LOC and run the RCA cables from the LOC near the HU to the rear at the amp. I will probably locate the LOC behind the glove box like beidle99 did. Is there a standard way that the wires on the LOC's are made? What I mean is I have a Grey wire, a Grey and striped wire, a white wire, and a striped white coming out of the back of the LOC. I don't have the instructions anymore since I used it ages ago and wanted to know which one would be positive and which one was negative. Also, any tips on taking the HU out of the front dash? Thanks.

Hobbes80

The stickied thread in this section has good information on removing the HU. The cliff-notes is (if you do not have the center console), you need to pop off the Aux input panel (just above the lower tray) with a flat-head screw driver.

There is a 7mm bolt behind that. Where the LCD screen is on top there is a rubber mat that pulls out (it has a lip that goes into a groove, so you may need to work at it from the edges) and reveals 2 more 7mm screws.

The faceplate is then held in place by the vertical strips on either side, and 4 clips or so on each side. Starting from the bottom, pull on the vertical strips so that they pull away from the faceplate. the side closer to the faceplate will pull away easy, the side further away (close to the dash, or the airbag) will not pull away at all. The side on the airbag is bolted behind the airbag and the driver side is behind the dash panel... so it is easier to not remove either.

Once they are popped up, you can pull the faceplate by starting from the bottom and pulling out to release the clips... it is in there pretty good, so you have to work hard, but use the force evenly. when it comes loose, disconnect the 5 connections on the back starting from the bottom and working your way up.

Once the faceplate is free, you can unscrew the head unit with 4 bolts around it and it just comes right out, there are probably 3 connections on the back of yours, the antenna and the harness connectors...

I know it sounds like a lot, but once you have it down, you can go have the stereo out in under two minutes.

I bet you can get a wiring diagram for your LOC off the internet... make sure you do not get your +/- switched... while it won't damage anything, it will sound like crap. Generally the striped wire is negative, I would make that assumption if all else fails.

Let us know how it turns out.

skeeterweeder

OK, so after much discussion on this board I have believe I have found out everything I need to know. Of course it is easier said then done (removing the HU seems like my worst worries right now). I have attached a diagram of what I am about to do......please look it over and tell me what you think. The two questions I may have is......1. running my RCA cables along the Power line and remote line isn't a good idea huh? What If I Electrical taped them when they are close to each other or do I run them on the drivers side away from all the other wiring? 2. The way I attached my vehicle ground is that I took the screw out of the backseat harness/mount piece and sanded it all down then attached my ground wire and screwed everything back together. Does that sound like it will work? The bolts on the bottom of the seats were hard to get off. Thank You!!!

skeeterweeder

Hobbes80.......... Believe it or not I did everything in my power to try to get a diagram for the LOC and it does not seem possible. I don't know if it is because it is so old or what.