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To give you guys an idea of the space restrictions under the rear seat in my supercab here is a pic. The red line is 30-36" long, the blue line is max height of 8.5", the green line is max height of 5.5" and the yellow line is 10" long. I have been playing with the box wizard @ https://rockfordfosgate.com/support/box-wizard/ trying come up with a wedge design that would work with a 10" sub. The 8.5" height restriction rules out a front firing 10" speaker and the 5.5" height at the back would be very tight for a downfiring 10" also. I could also remove the divider but the floor raises up almost 2" so the remaining 3.5" of clearance to the seat makes it almost pointless and I would prefer to keep the divider installed for storage.
you can always do downfiring or use a seat lift kit
Hmmm...tell me more. I ran these in my last truck with the "premium" Sony system and it seemed to work well...no amp.
The speakers I listed are advertised by the manufacturer as qualified swaps over factory speakers and they state the lower impedance makes them a good choice for factory systems without an amp given the smaller gauge wiring that factory uses.
I don't want to give wrong info...so let me know, thanks...I wasn't aware of this.
the sony system is amp'd, that's why it is an upgrade over the stock system.
amplifiers are designed to run at certain impedances. that's why you seem them rate power at 4ohm and 2ohm typically, and some sub amps can go down to 1ohm or even less but those are monsters, and have limitations when bridging channels (typically not lower than 4ohm). the lower the impedance the bigger the output from the amp (typically). in the simplest of terms when you connect a lower impedance speaker to an amp the amp has to work harder. push it too hard and the amp channel will blow.
factory systems like the base setup in our trucks are designed with the budget in mind, not performance. i have yet to see a factory system that is designed to run at 2ohms but that doesn't mean they are not out there. as i said earlier one should be cautious when using a lower impedance speaker than the system was designed for as the internal amp as it could cause the amp to blow. i'm not saying it will blow with a 2ohm speaker, just that the odds of it happening are much greater (especially if you crank on it all the time). one could run 2ohm speakers for years and not have a problem or it could blow the internal amp in no time at all. that's why i suggested being cautious when changing speakers.
This sub would be really close to fitting and sounds great. I use it in my supercrew and it fits perfectly with a little tuck in under the rear seat. By your measurements it would stick out a little bit, but not bad. http://www.jlaudio.com/cs110tg-tw3-c...-systems-93302
It would also be cheaper than your two sub option.
Like dhm said, ditch the LC7i and get a DSP. It's cheaper (Dayton 408) and far more useful.
I'd also reconsider the Alpine amp. It's nice, but there's as good or better out there for less. Zapco's ST-6X DSP is a DSP+ 6 CH amp in one for $50 less than the PDR-V75.
It can do 6x100w or 4x100w + 1x300w, and has 2 extra processed RCA outputs.
As for your subwoofer dilemma, I feel your pain. I too have a Supercab. I've been over it every way possible trying to figure out what can fit where. With a down-fire box and moderate power, your best bet is a pair of Image Dynamics ID8s. They play low pretty good for 8s and the box size will be near perfect.
Another alternative is a console box like this. (That's for a Supercrew, though. They won't make you one for a Supercab, even if you ask nicely. )
If you like that idea, shoot me a message. I have a SketchUp drawing for one to fit a Supercab. It's 0.79 cubic feet and can fit a full depth 10" or 12" sub, or a pair of 8s.
Thanks for helping me out with all the replies and suggestions everyone. I ended up ordering a rear seat lift from LMI Welding and went with the Dayton 408, dual Punch P2D2 8" subs, JL Audio RD9005 amp (900W 5CH), Infinity Ref 9633ix 6x9's for the front doors and Morel Maximo coax 6 for the rear doors. I don't have anything installed yet, still waiting on a few things in the mail.
Thanks for helping me out with all the replies and suggestions everyone. I ended up ordering a rear seat lift from LMI Welding and went with the Dayton 408, dual Punch P2D2 8" subs, JL Audio RD9005 amp (900W 5CH), Infinity Ref 9633ix 6x9's for the front doors and Morel Maximo coax 6 for the rear doors. I don't have anything installed yet, still waiting on a few things in the mail.
Curious as to what you ended up doing for a sub enclosure.
Curious as to what you ended up doing for a sub enclosure.
I will be building my own sub box out of 5/8" or 3/4" MDF to fit under the rear seat. I'm still working on the final design and size though and I'm leaning heavily towards a downfiring design to keep the subs from getting banged up. The extra 2.5" of height gained from the seat lift will help a lot.
Thanks for helping me out with all the replies and suggestions everyone. I ended up ordering a rear seat lift from LMI Welding and went with the Dayton 408, dual Punch P2D2 8" subs, JL Audio RD9005 amp (900W 5CH), Infinity Ref 9633ix 6x9's for the front doors and Morel Maximo coax 6 for the rear doors. I don't have anything installed yet, still waiting on a few things in the mail.
Looks good, except you bought coaxials for the front instead of components. You'd want the REF-9630cx model.
audio build on a budget is like trying to have sex with the hot chick u been lusting over for 2 years with a condom .. you know you should and its the right choice .. but what's the fun in that and you know you will enjoy it more
04-17-2019, 08:37 AM
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