fourclowns

So your running both the 6.1200 and 4.800 through the Helix DSP 8 channel correct ? Even though I think I just read it has 10 outputs.

Also what rear speakers are you running right now? I know your going to put some NEO 8" in soon, but you had some Morels in there, for channels 7&8 into Helix and ch 1&2 in 4.800 being pushed by 400w each, so what speakers are those?

dhmcfadin

The dsp always goes before the amplifiers. The amplifiers simply amplify the signal provided by the source and dsp. The dsp's output goes "into" the amplifiers.

The Helix MK2 allows for 8 channels of low level input or toslink or coax and 10 channels output. I am using toslink as my input.

I am currently running the Morel Virtus 6.5" woofer in the door. They handle the power just fine. I had designed the system to always run an 8" in the door, I just hadn't found a midbass that I liked until I found the w800 Neo.

Rear fill are my trusty Morel Tempo Ultra Integra's.

fourclowns

Where did you purchase your Helix Mk2 DSP from and how much did you get it for?

I know you have your Mids up in your pillars, but off the top of your head is there a way to put in a brackets setup the front door woofers and mids together, I think I have either heard or seen someone do it, I just don't want to spent the time or effort, or frankly the extra money (cause I just don't have any of it), to put them in the pillars.

So if there is another doable place to put the two mids as in the Virtus 603's I would like to go that route vice the 602 if I can if it's possible, but if not then I guess I will make due, I just thought maybe you might know of an alternate way or place to put the mids.

dhmcfadin

You can email Helix to locate a local dealer for you. They don't generally allow their dealer to sell across state lines so you will want to check where you live. I think I paid $1450.00 for the MK2 and Helix Director with mount. You will need the director which is the remote for the dsp.

In general, in a 3-way setup you want your mid and tweeter as close together as possible, letting the midbass work alone. That's why in 99% of 3-way configurations the tweeter and mid are always grouped and almost always on the upper door, dash, or a-pillar. There is less to get in the way of the higher frequency signals and you can place your mid on axis. That's being said, AudioDesignsCG makes a 3-way speaker adapter kit where the mid and midbass are in the door. I can't speak to how it would sound though having the mid that low.

My personal opinion, go 2-way if this is your first dive into car audio. It will generally be cheaper and you aren't going to notice anything missing. Keep it simple for now and build upon your setup as you learn what you want, like, or need. A 2-way front stage can sound just as good as most 3-way stages when tuned properly. And it eliminates the need for you have to manufacture custom parts for the mid.

As far as the dsp goes, if you go 2-way, I would strongly recommend the Dayton 408 $150.00 or if you plan on going 3-way in the future, the MiniDSP C-DSP 8x10 $500.00. Both significantly less that the Helix and very respectable processors!

fourclowns

First thanks, exact info I was looking for. not my first rodeo, but definitely my first rodeo at this level, and to this extent equipment and $$$ wise for sure.

So you would suggest the Dayton 408 over going with the Audio Control d-6.1200 with integrated, cause you said the AC has a floating variable DSP, where the Helix has a Constant/fixed active crossover.

Is that how the Dayton 408 is? Constant Fixed type active crossover and would be better?

dhmcfadin

The Dayton is fixed point. But the AC dsp's are good too. It's all personal preference. There's nothing bad about AC. I love that company. I wouldn't say active is better than passive. You just have more adjustability and can better fine tune. Again, start simple. Your components are going to come with passive crossovers. Mount your crossovers on your amp rack. If you decided you want to go active after the fact, all the wiring is already right there. Super simple.

fourclowns

Well, Active is better then Passive, I don't think that is even a discussion point, don't need to be politically correct with me, I know that much. But if I'm spending this much money I'm willing to do some things that are worth it. Like I agree with you, I can skip a 3 way and stick with a two way and save a lot of time and money and not really lose much, the bang really isn't worth the buck as they were to say.

However, when it comes to DSP's I know that is a popular discussion point as well as AMP's and they are the foundation of your system outside of your original source music, but something made you stray away from AC for the DSP and spend $1500 for a specific DSP unit?

SO can you explain in short what it was and maybe what some of your other DSP's you were looking at before you settled on the Helix?

dhmcfadin

Lol, I completely agree that active is better hands down but I didn't want to get into a pissing match with anyone.

Honestly, when I built this system, I wanted the best of the best. I wanted to spare no expense. (Excluding speakers the first round- that took a LONG time to find what I wanted) I wanted every tuning option available to me, tons of power on tap, breathtaking midbass, beautifully crisp highs that weren't harsh to the ear, a sound stage so full and articulate that I could pinpoint where each instrument was on the stage when the song was recorded, aesthetically pleasing (Helix Director remote) and most importantly, zero noise. A true audiophile setup. You are dead on, the dsp and amps are the heart of the system. While I love AC's amps, I played with their dsp tuning software long before I made any purchases and found myself very underwhelmed. I even spoke a great lengths with various AC employees. At the end of the day, the lack of adjustability wasn't for me. I went with Helix because they are widely considered the best of the best. The rolls Royce of dsp's. They are rock solid, built with extremely high quality components, some of the best tuning software in the business. Some even offer remote tuning. I recommend Nick Apicella of Apicella Auto Sound. Mosconi is up there as well and equally as good, although I think their tuning software isn't as good as helix. But again, my opinion.

If you have the funds, go with the Helix MK2. Hands down.

I'd also recommend really considering a solid set of speakers for your front stage. If it was me and I wanted a "blow me away" 2 way front stage, I would go AudioFrog GB 15 tweets and AudioFrog GB 60 midbass. Audiofrog recommends a 12 dB highpass at 1800 hz which is stupid low for a tweeter. I mean, the damn things nearly put out bass. It's crazy. Can't really get much better than that in a 2 way setup. And you won't have to spend a fortune on drivers. The gb 15 and 60 retail together for about 1100 but HushCarAudio on this forum is a dealer for AF and I know can beat those prices by a lot.

fourclowns

Ok, you've got me interested, They are that much better than Morel's even the Higher end Morels like the Elate or Supremo's?

and if I were to the GB15/GB60 for my fronts what would suggest as my rear for fills? I'm definitely open and am open to spending a bit more to do it right first time.

HushCarAudio

Audio Frog has a really awesome reputation for being one of the all-time best speakers right now. I'm placing another order with them today so let me know if you need those speakers.