HushCarAudio

Tell me about it. I had a customer come back with nearly all of his speakers and sub blown at the same time somehow. Then asked for a warranty because he said everything I sold him was defective from JL Audio.

Kelsod

I got a question for ya @SoundsGoodStereo
I have the base B&O system in a 21 F150. If one did say a 5 channel amp with the NAV-TV for a 2-way passive system, such as the 2 way passive plug and play system you sell. Would that make all 4 door channels a "audio" system. Where all four channels are playing the same sound, (minus high pass and low pass filters and such that would be set at the amp). Or does the NAV-TV have some sort of standard DSP program built into it that makes the rear channels "fill" I understand the NAV-TV is technically a DSP but only to fix the ford sound, filters and roll offs and such and cant be re tuned.

SoundsGoodStereo

Exactly, a audio system, not a stereo system. Only way to have stereo is a DSP tuned system or sit on the center console of the truck. Also, sit in the middle in the back seat, that will work too But in the driver seat, active is what is required for stereo.

The Zen is a DSP, but just about anything can be a DSP. Digital Signal Processor, so you add a EQ on your phone, it’s a DSP.

But the Zen is not tunable and every output is stereo. So ALL left RCA are identical and ALL right RCAs are identical. Music is 2-channel, so technically you just need one set of RCAs , not 6, not 12 and not even 4. But for those that need a fader, you can use the rear outputs so that factory function still works.

Kelsod

okay okay I'm tracking..
Then say for an example, in your two way passive plug in play, are you recommending the user to set the fader more towards the front to artificially create a "stereo". I'm assuming no matter where you set the fader that it doesn't affect the subwoofer channel ( with the NAV-TV)?

P.S I recently bought your Arc Audio 1100 loaded amp rack with the loaded subwoofer box. just trying to think of what I would need to do in the future if I go down that path...

scp

Any progress on intro yet?

fiveoh

Oops....

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fiveoh

@Kelsod
Which sub box are you using and how do you like it?

I've been looking at that same amp rack, but now with the new behind the seat sub box it looks like I might have to go with a smaller amp/rack setup.

f one fiddy

I’m planning out a full system install for my 2022 Lariat F-250 CC. I’d appreciate your help figuring out the wiring strategy. I intend to use a PAC FD31 module to integrate with the factory wiring and replace the factory amp with a JL XD1000/5V2.

As you know, the factory tweeter location is in the A-pillars. I’d like to keep that location instead of modifying the door sails. When I install component speakers up front, what’s the best way to wire this up? I’m unclear on whether the factory amp powers the factory tweeters, or they’re powered directly by the factory head unit. I’d prefer to tie into factory tweeter wiring by the dash (assuming no connection to factory amp) rather than screw with mounting crossovers in the doors and passing speaker wire through the factory door harnesses. Obviously I can go the quick and dirty route of disconnecting the factory harness at the tweeters and running my own wire directly from the amp, although I’d like to keep this as tidy as possible.

In other words, this is my preferred wiring path for ease of install:

Tweeters - Amp > Crossover (mounted behind back seat) > Factory tweeter harness
Woofers - Amp > Crossover (mounted behind back seat) > Factory amp/speaker wire connection

On the subject of using factory wiring to expedite installation, is it safe to push 100w RMS or do I need to hit the **** it button and run 14ga speaker wire to all 4 corners?

Thank you for your help!

SoundsGoodStereo

Do you have the unleashed or regular B&O?

We have not seen the actual wiring harnesses that come with the FD31, only the photo online.

If you have the Unleashed, the factory radio runs the tweeters and the rear speakers. You will need to run those to the amplifier rack location.

If so, you will use this configuration:
Tweeters - Amp > Crossover (mounted behind back seat) > Factory tweeter harness (We can make these, just need to see a photo of your factory plug to confirm)
Woofers - Amp > Crossover (mounted behind back seat) > Factory amp/speaker wire connection

Never mount a crossover in the door and try to never mount them near other electronics as they could pick up noise. Mount on the rear wall for peace of mind.

Regarding the factory wiring, you can run as much power as you want, no need to ever run larger wires when you're dealing with AC current. Here is an article by a very smart engineer:
https://soundsgoodstereo.com/blogs/b...-your-speakers

In this build, we have over 1K rms watts going through the factory wiring:

You Tube

f one fiddy

Thanks for the insight. It’s a 10 speaker B&O (standard on Lariat Ultimate). Amplifier and sub behind the back seat.

The plan is to buy one of your amp racks and use it for the crossovers as well. Probably door block off plates when I pull the speakers too. I don’t want the crossovers in the doors at all.