2012 Platinum SCREW w/Nav and Sony Stereo Install
10-23-2018, 05:35 PM
#1
Dazed and Confused
Thread Starter
2012 Platinum SCREW w/Nav and Sony Stereo Install
Hi everyone,
After having my truck for 3 years now and sitting on some components for almost as long, I'm finally upgrading my factory stereo. To be fair, the Maestro RRs just recently become available, too, so it makes more sense now to get a new head unit while I'm at it.
Anyway, I'm using this for inspiration on the install: http://www.carstereochick.com/2016/0...oods-ddx9902s/
Here's what I'm planning on installing:
Kenwood DDX9904s Headunit
iDatalink Maestro RR + Ford wiring harness
Dayton Audio DSP408 for front crossovers and EQ
SB Acoustics SB17NRXC35 woofers
SEAS Prestige 27TFFNC/G tweets (will have to make the factory tweeter holes a bit bigger)
2 Sundown SD3 D2 10" Subs
SuperCrewSound.com Dual Subwoofer box with amp rack
Soundstream Picasso Nano amps (PN4.520D for fronts, PN1.1000D for subs... may upgrade these later)
0 Gauge OFC Power
I'm not planning on doing anything with the rear speakers right now. I may replace them later, but I'll never be back there and I don't think anyone who would care ever will be, either, so not really much of a point to that.
My goal for this install is to have great, solid sound that plays clean to moderate levels. I'm not looking to compete in either SQ or SPL, just want a very solid upgrade from factory (which isn't difficult with these Sony systems... they're terrible... the factory speakers in my wife's Kia Sportage literally sounded better than these do). I'll be using RCA cables to feed the DSP408 from the HU and I'll probably just run speaker wire from my amp rack behind my seat to the Sony amp under the console. I may end up doing full runs to the doors, but I'd really rather not. I may also do a little bit of tuning using REW if I'm not happy with the sound after first installation.
Anyway, just thought I'd document this, especially since replacing factory nav units tends to be a hot topic. Working on getting everything ordered today. If anyone has any questions or suggestions, please let me know.
Brandon
After having my truck for 3 years now and sitting on some components for almost as long, I'm finally upgrading my factory stereo. To be fair, the Maestro RRs just recently become available, too, so it makes more sense now to get a new head unit while I'm at it.
Anyway, I'm using this for inspiration on the install: http://www.carstereochick.com/2016/0...oods-ddx9902s/
Here's what I'm planning on installing:
Kenwood DDX9904s Headunit
iDatalink Maestro RR + Ford wiring harness
Dayton Audio DSP408 for front crossovers and EQ
SB Acoustics SB17NRXC35 woofers
SEAS Prestige 27TFFNC/G tweets (will have to make the factory tweeter holes a bit bigger)
2 Sundown SD3 D2 10" Subs
SuperCrewSound.com Dual Subwoofer box with amp rack
Soundstream Picasso Nano amps (PN4.520D for fronts, PN1.1000D for subs... may upgrade these later)
0 Gauge OFC Power
I'm not planning on doing anything with the rear speakers right now. I may replace them later, but I'll never be back there and I don't think anyone who would care ever will be, either, so not really much of a point to that.
My goal for this install is to have great, solid sound that plays clean to moderate levels. I'm not looking to compete in either SQ or SPL, just want a very solid upgrade from factory (which isn't difficult with these Sony systems... they're terrible... the factory speakers in my wife's Kia Sportage literally sounded better than these do). I'll be using RCA cables to feed the DSP408 from the HU and I'll probably just run speaker wire from my amp rack behind my seat to the Sony amp under the console. I may end up doing full runs to the doors, but I'd really rather not. I may also do a little bit of tuning using REW if I'm not happy with the sound after first installation.
Anyway, just thought I'd document this, especially since replacing factory nav units tends to be a hot topic. Working on getting everything ordered today. If anyone has any questions or suggestions, please let me know.
Brandon
Last edited by cbrandonb; 11-03-2018 at 11:59 AM.
11-03-2018, 12:02 PM
#2
Dazed and Confused
Thread Starter
Making slow progress.
Brandon
- I've got the headunit working.
- Found the rear camera wires and wired those into the head unit.
- The sub box is supposedly on its way.
- The tweeters are also in. Went slow and steady with the dremel to get those enlarged evenly.
- My DSP408 got pushed back another week. :-/ So that stinks.
- I also can't mount my amps until the sub box comes in so I can see what would be best on the amp rack of the sub box and what needs to go onto the back wall.
- Power cable is run.
- RCAs are run. I ran 6 just in case, even though I'll probably only need 4. While I'm at it, might as well.
Brandon
11-04-2018, 06:56 AM
#3
Nice list of components. Since you are using an aftermarket head-unit, I don't think you need the Maestro. Maybe it's different for pre 15 trucks.
When you receive your box, make sure inspect it thoroughly. Bang on each panel and make sure there aren't any loose panels, make sure their aren't any gaps between panels. You can use a vacuum and baby powder to check. I ordered a super crew sounds box once and immediately returned it due to these issues. Just be aware.
The Dayton dsp will be worth the wait. The combo of your components is going to give you an excellent sounding system. I know you said you aren't going for serious sq, but with that dsp and proper tuning, that is what you are going to achieve.
As far as rears go, you have the right mindset. A lot of people don't understand that the rear speakers are for fill only, not a 2nd sound stage. No need to do anything with them at this point. If anything, just buy some decent coax and be done with with it.
Most importantly, I didn't see anything in your post about sound deadening and vibration dampening. Don't forget this step!
Awesome build!
When you receive your box, make sure inspect it thoroughly. Bang on each panel and make sure there aren't any loose panels, make sure their aren't any gaps between panels. You can use a vacuum and baby powder to check. I ordered a super crew sounds box once and immediately returned it due to these issues. Just be aware.
The Dayton dsp will be worth the wait. The combo of your components is going to give you an excellent sounding system. I know you said you aren't going for serious sq, but with that dsp and proper tuning, that is what you are going to achieve.
As far as rears go, you have the right mindset. A lot of people don't understand that the rear speakers are for fill only, not a 2nd sound stage. No need to do anything with them at this point. If anything, just buy some decent coax and be done with with it.
Most importantly, I didn't see anything in your post about sound deadening and vibration dampening. Don't forget this step!
Awesome build!
11-04-2018, 09:46 AM
#4
sounds good. i already did mine and there are a lot of similarities. you will be happy. now for some random comments....
did similar, just different gear. idatalink rr and the dash kit, pioneer 8201-NEX, alpine pdxV9, dyn 102 and 170, pair of jbl gto804. i did all new runs, mostly because i had it laying around.
i have 2 of the picasso nano amps, both the 4.1000. one is on my bike and the other is in my CJ-7. they do rated power and have decent sound, though my two installs are possibly the worst environments for testing. amazing little amps!
i've read some good reviews on that dsp, and i've always been a PE fan.
definitely treat the doors, but i'm guessing you probably had that in mind already.
now start posting some pics...
did similar, just different gear. idatalink rr and the dash kit, pioneer 8201-NEX, alpine pdxV9, dyn 102 and 170, pair of jbl gto804. i did all new runs, mostly because i had it laying around.
i have 2 of the picasso nano amps, both the 4.1000. one is on my bike and the other is in my CJ-7. they do rated power and have decent sound, though my two installs are possibly the worst environments for testing. amazing little amps!
i've read some good reviews on that dsp, and i've always been a PE fan.
definitely treat the doors, but i'm guessing you probably had that in mind already.
now start posting some pics...
11-04-2018, 12:41 PM
#5
Dazed and Confused
Thread Starter
Nice list of components. Since you are using an aftermarket head-unit, I don't think you need the Maestro. Maybe it's different for pre 15 trucks.
I have to use the Maestro because I have factory nav and the "upgraded" Sony system. My climate control is integrated with the headunit, so I have to have the Maestro for that. Before the Maestro, the only thing you could do if you have factory nav was take the outputs of the Sony amp, process them, and send them back to whatever you installed.
When you receive your box, make sure inspect it thoroughly. Bang on each panel and make sure there aren't any loose panels, make sure their aren't any gaps between panels. You can use a vacuum and baby powder to check. I ordered a super crew sounds box once and immediately returned it due to these issues. Just be aware.
Thanks! I'll be sure to check it well when it gets here. Hopefully it'll be here Monday or Tuesday.
The Dayton dsp will be worth the wait. The combo of your components is going to give you an excellent sounding system. I know you said you aren't going for serious sq, but with that dsp and proper tuning, that is what you are going to achieve.
I think I should be really happy with it once I get everything tuned. I understand the concepts, but this will be my first full-fledged tune. I'm a little worried about these woofers only going up to 3.5k I think and the tweets only going down to 2.5k. That may make it challenging to get them to gel. Just going to have to see.
As far as rears go, you have the right mindset. A lot of people don't understand that the rear speakers are for fill only, not a 2nd sound stage. No need to do anything with them at this point. If anything, just buy some decent coax and be done with with it.
Most importantly, I didn't see anything in your post about sound deadening and vibration dampening. Don't forget this step!
I ordered some off-brand Dynamat (Kilmat, I think it was) yesterday! Definitely going to at least do my doors.
Awesome build!
I have to use the Maestro because I have factory nav and the "upgraded" Sony system. My climate control is integrated with the headunit, so I have to have the Maestro for that. Before the Maestro, the only thing you could do if you have factory nav was take the outputs of the Sony amp, process them, and send them back to whatever you installed.
When you receive your box, make sure inspect it thoroughly. Bang on each panel and make sure there aren't any loose panels, make sure their aren't any gaps between panels. You can use a vacuum and baby powder to check. I ordered a super crew sounds box once and immediately returned it due to these issues. Just be aware.
Thanks! I'll be sure to check it well when it gets here. Hopefully it'll be here Monday or Tuesday.
The Dayton dsp will be worth the wait. The combo of your components is going to give you an excellent sounding system. I know you said you aren't going for serious sq, but with that dsp and proper tuning, that is what you are going to achieve.
I think I should be really happy with it once I get everything tuned. I understand the concepts, but this will be my first full-fledged tune. I'm a little worried about these woofers only going up to 3.5k I think and the tweets only going down to 2.5k. That may make it challenging to get them to gel. Just going to have to see.
As far as rears go, you have the right mindset. A lot of people don't understand that the rear speakers are for fill only, not a 2nd sound stage. No need to do anything with them at this point. If anything, just buy some decent coax and be done with with it.
Most importantly, I didn't see anything in your post about sound deadening and vibration dampening. Don't forget this step!
I ordered some off-brand Dynamat (Kilmat, I think it was) yesterday! Definitely going to at least do my doors.
Awesome build!
sounds good. i already did mine and there are a lot of similarities. you will be happy. now for some random comments....
did similar, just different gear. idatalink rr and the dash kit, pioneer 8201-NEX, alpine pdxV9, dyn 102 and 170, pair of jbl gto804. i did all new runs, mostly because i had it laying around.
Nice! There's actually not a dash kit available for my trim, so I had to make sure whatever headunit I used would fit the space. Kenwood includes a spacer that is perfect for this purpose, so I went that route.
i have 2 of the picasso nano amps, both the 4.1000. one is on my bike and the other is in my CJ-7. they do rated power and have decent sound, though my two installs are possibly the worst environments for testing. amazing little amps!
Glad to hear this!
i've read some good reviews on that dsp, and i've always been a PE fan.
Me, too. I've done some DIY speaker kits before and they can be an insane value. They sound incredible. PE is a huge enabler of these projects, and I am grateful for them!
definitely treat the doors, but i'm guessing you probably had that in mind already.
Yep. It will be here Monday. I wasn't going to at first and then realized I need to while I'm at it. It's minimal money compared to everything else and should make a big difference in the sound.
now start posting some pics...
did similar, just different gear. idatalink rr and the dash kit, pioneer 8201-NEX, alpine pdxV9, dyn 102 and 170, pair of jbl gto804. i did all new runs, mostly because i had it laying around.
Nice! There's actually not a dash kit available for my trim, so I had to make sure whatever headunit I used would fit the space. Kenwood includes a spacer that is perfect for this purpose, so I went that route.
i have 2 of the picasso nano amps, both the 4.1000. one is on my bike and the other is in my CJ-7. they do rated power and have decent sound, though my two installs are possibly the worst environments for testing. amazing little amps!
Glad to hear this!
i've read some good reviews on that dsp, and i've always been a PE fan.
Me, too. I've done some DIY speaker kits before and they can be an insane value. They sound incredible. PE is a huge enabler of these projects, and I am grateful for them!
definitely treat the doors, but i'm guessing you probably had that in mind already.
Yep. It will be here Monday.
I wasn't going to at first and then realized I need to while I'm at it. It's minimal money compared to everything else and should make a big difference in the sound.now start posting some pics...
Brandon
11-04-2018, 01:33 PM
#6
On the SB Acoustics, at 3k at 60 degrees off axis, which is about the angle of the cone in the door from where your ear is, you are going to start experiencing some pretty harsh beaming. I would not cross them higher than 2500. See graph.
On the tweeter, it has an fs of 1170 hz, rule of thumb is to crossover at double the fs. So 2340 hz. While it's lower than the frequency response, you have a large cushion by doubling your crossover from fs. See graph.
Proper sound insulation in your doors is going to be crucial. I strongly suggest 5-7 "black hole" tiles in each door. This help your mid tremendously since you are having to cross it so high. Especially in the higher frequencies when it's starting to break up. Buy a sheet of this and cut it up in 3x4" pieces and stick in various places inside your door, focus them in the speaker region where the motor will point.
https://www.parts-express.com/sonic-...-x-24--260-535
If I was running this setup, I would do the following.
Black hole tiles in the doors
Tweeter HP @ 2340 24 dB slope
Mid HP @ 55hz 24 dB slope, LP @2340 24 dB slope
I recommend the 24 dB slope because undesired frequencies are going to drop off much fast than a 12 dB slope. This is going to be crucial for your setup considering the higher crossover points and the beaming issue of your mid.
On the tweeter, it has an fs of 1170 hz, rule of thumb is to crossover at double the fs. So 2340 hz. While it's lower than the frequency response, you have a large cushion by doubling your crossover from fs. See graph.
Proper sound insulation in your doors is going to be crucial. I strongly suggest 5-7 "black hole" tiles in each door. This help your mid tremendously since you are having to cross it so high. Especially in the higher frequencies when it's starting to break up. Buy a sheet of this and cut it up in 3x4" pieces and stick in various places inside your door, focus them in the speaker region where the motor will point.
https://www.parts-express.com/sonic-...-x-24--260-535
If I was running this setup, I would do the following.
Black hole tiles in the doors
Tweeter HP @ 2340 24 dB slope
Mid HP @ 55hz 24 dB slope, LP @2340 24 dB slope
I recommend the 24 dB slope because undesired frequencies are going to drop off much fast than a 12 dB slope. This is going to be crucial for your setup considering the higher crossover points and the beaming issue of your mid.
Last edited by dhmcfadin; 11-04-2018 at 01:38 PM.
11-04-2018, 01:48 PM
#7
Dazed and Confused
Thread Starter
Thank you for the specs and explanations. I spec'd these speakers out and bought them 3 years ago. At the time, I thought they could work together, but I am a little bit concerned about crossing them over where I'm going to need to. They're almost too close, but maybe it'll be just right.
Thank you for the product recommendations. The "black hole" tiles are mass loaded vinyl? Is the insulation to help with standing waves and reflections?
One question... I'm curious why you'd go all the way down to 55Hz on the mid HP. I would think with sealed subs, I may want to go a bit higher.
Thanks again!
Brandon
Thank you for the product recommendations. The "black hole" tiles are mass loaded vinyl? Is the insulation to help with standing waves and reflections?
One question... I'm curious why you'd go all the way down to 55Hz on the mid HP. I would think with sealed subs, I may want to go a bit higher.
Thanks again!
Brandon
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11-04-2018, 02:37 PM
#8
Originally Posted by cbrandonb
Thank you for the specs and explanations. I spec'd these speakers out and bought them 3 years ago. At the time, I thought they could work together, but I am a little bit concerned about crossing them over where I'm going to need to. They're almost too close, but maybe it'll be just right.
Thank you for the product recommendations. The "black hole" tiles are mass loaded vinyl? Is the insulation to help with standing waves and reflections?
One question... I'm curious why you'd go all the way down to 55Hz on the mid HP. I would think with sealed subs, I may want to go a bit higher.
Thanks again!
Brandon
Thank you for the product recommendations. The "black hole" tiles are mass loaded vinyl? Is the insulation to help with standing waves and reflections?
One question... I'm curious why you'd go all the way down to 55Hz on the mid HP. I would think with sealed subs, I may want to go a bit higher.
Thanks again!
Brandon
I would definitely cross it higher after I did my initial measurements.
The speakers you have are very capable. They are spread a little thin at 2500 hz. But, I think setting your crossover closer to fs on the tweeter will alleviate that issue along with black hole tiles.
Ideally, these drivers are made to operate in a 3 way setup. That way you can cross the tweeter higher and mid bass lower and allow the smaller mid to make up the difference. Any chance you would consider that?
11-04-2018, 02:47 PM
#9
Dazed and Confused
Thread Starter
Hmmm... I would definitely consider it, but it complicates the install quite a bit, namely in needing to run speaker wires to support another driver in the door. I would also have no clue how to mount said speakers. lol I would expect maybe some cutting of the door to make room? Speaker wires usually aren't too big of a deal, but those damn Molex connectors on these doors make it quite a bit more complicated, obviously. I'm still considering just getting a good set of 6x8 coaxials and calling it a day. lol I've used Infinity Kappas for the last 15 or so years... I'm confident I could get a pair of those or maybe some Focals and still be quite happy. It's all relative, I suppose.
For the fun of it, any thoughts on a mid to go with these should I decide to test those waters?
Brandon
For the fun of it, any thoughts on a mid to go with these should I decide to test those waters?
Brandon
11-04-2018, 03:27 PM
#10
Originally Posted by cbrandonb
Hmmm... I would definitely consider it, but it complicates the install quite a bit, namely in needing to run speaker wires to support another driver in the door. I would also have no clue how to mount said speakers. lol I would expect maybe some cutting of the door to make room? Speaker wires usually aren't too big of a deal, but those damn Molex connectors on these doors make it quite a bit more complicated, obviously. I'm still considering just getting a good set of 6x8 coaxials and calling it a day. lol I've used Infinity Kappas for the last 15 or so years... I'm confident I could get a pair of those or maybe some Focals and still be quite happy. It's all relative, I suppose.
For the fun of it, any thoughts on a mid to go with these should I decide to test those waters?
Brandon
For the fun of it, any thoughts on a mid to go with these should I decide to test those waters?
Brandon
That being said, you don't need a coax in the door. That will take you further away from sq and instead of creating a sound stage on your dash, you will creat wall of sound. You just need a mid that will better fit your needs.
I would recommend the new Stereo Integrity TM65 MKIII
https://stereointegrity.com/product/tm65-6-5-woofer/
It's got a clean frequency response from 63hz-10k. Well over what you need. Not only that, but these mids are midbass monsters. They are extremely capable. A little more expensive than your original drivers but these are sold in pairs and are well worth the increase in cost. Nick, the owner, is a hell of a guy and a great person to call and chat with for both car and home audio.