2 10s behind the seat?? Back of cab as back of box??
#11
Member
Thread Starter
Update
progress is slow but steady.
have all my sides to my box done and epoxyed in. Cut my seat bolts incase I need to remove for any unforseen reason. Rear window bracket move up. Seats go up and it appears to be enough room. Wost case i seen if I unlatch the rear seat I gain clearance. Well guess I start glassing next weekend.
progress is slow but steady.
have all my sides to my box done and epoxyed in. Cut my seat bolts incase I need to remove for any unforseen reason. Rear window bracket move up. Seats go up and it appears to be enough room. Wost case i seen if I unlatch the rear seat I gain clearance. Well guess I start glassing next weekend.
#12
What's your guess on airspace?
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#14
.5 cf for the 4 ohm and .575 for the 8 ohm is recommended per the manual. If you have the 4 ohms you should be fine with the 1.15 cf net. I'd add polyfill just to be safe.
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#15
Member
Thread Starter
I have 4 ohms going to run parallel.
funny their web site states .375 plus basket either way hard to figure out exactly how much volume I have but it should be close to the middle of both. Usually I throw in some fill as well.
36" long 15.25 high 4.25 deep but to the shallow step and then deduct all the nitches.sides and top.
Thanks for the heads up
funny their web site states .375 plus basket either way hard to figure out exactly how much volume I have but it should be close to the middle of both. Usually I throw in some fill as well.
36" long 15.25 high 4.25 deep but to the shallow step and then deduct all the nitches.sides and top.
Thanks for the heads up
#16
Member
Thread Starter
Rear doors done tweeters done front doors are next and to be wired and routed out my front sub panel.
Its still ok to tell the SO im working late even if its for my own stuff right??
Anyone in NorthJersey with Forscan up for a tutorial let me know or need to dig into that pretty soon.
Its still ok to tell the SO im working late even if its for my own stuff right??
Anyone in NorthJersey with Forscan up for a tutorial let me know or need to dig into that pretty soon.
#17
Member
Thread Starter
Oh and if one is planning to up grade stay away from the polks if you are not doing subs.
nice highs and mids no low end but I should be ok with that once all is in.
nice highs and mids no low end but I should be ok with that once all is in.
#18
Junior Member
I've been wondering how did everybody run new wires up to their tweeters in the stock location then down into the doors to the crossover when doing components? I looked at the grommets from the door to the body of the car and I couldn't see any way of doing it without pulling the dash to gain access to where they are on the body. I would really have preferred putting my tweeters in the stock location but ended up mounting them to the sail panels on the doors but now my highs are way too bright.
#20
What Tommy said. You really don't need to run new wires to the door speakers period. If you see the wires that are supplied by the manufacturers for any component set rated at 100 RMS+ they are all tiny. More so than the OEM door wires so you'll be safe using the stock wires. Hook them up to the head unit speaker outlet wires and you'll be fine. As for the tweeters, run the new lines to the back of the head unit and then connect them to the crossovers. The crossovers have plenty of space behind the console area for hiding. Just make certain you are not placing them behind where the center console door cover slides back into otherwise you'll be blocking it.
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