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2 10s behind the seat?? Back of cab as back of box??
Yep going to do an install. Has been a while but nothing I havent done already so except for the froscan programming install is at least underway.
Going all Polk DBs 6.5s in the doors 4" ctr and 2 JL 10s behind the seat. 5 channel soundsteam is going under the drivers seat.
Anyone glass the back wall and use it as part of the box?? Starting on that now. Ported the cab vent to the rear pillar area and next step is to build up the back wall. 2 layers of weave and 2 layers chop mat with some stiffeners here and there. Gives me the depth and box size needed for 2 JL TW1 10s.
i haven't done that in my truck but have in many other vehicles. only thing you will have to factor in before beginning is how you are going to secure it to the truck.
I plan on cutting the sides from cardboard templates and running at least two layers right up the sides and top. Mat and resin a strip on the bottom and should be my square very sealed frame. Remove the seat to install the front and subs. Looking to do some more tomorrow hard during the week but will post some more pics of my progress. Thanks for the reply.
Save yourself some time and headaches. Build the top/bottom and sides out of MDF and just glass the back. MDF for the front too. I would make a couple of MDF "tabs" or metal L brackets so that you could bolt it to the same section of sheet metal as the seat release is on.
Easiest way I have found is masking tape the entire back wall, then tape up a bunch of cheap aluminum foil (used for cooking) sealing all the tinfoil edges with more masking tape. When you pull the mold, the tape will stay on the cab and the tinfoil will stick to the enclosure. The tape will protect the cab incase the tinfoil tears when you are fiberglassing. Otherwise, it sucks to get the mold to release using just masking tape and if you are OCD, tinfoil is easier to sand off of fiberglass then tape as the tape has a tendency to "melt" with the resin whereas tinfoil does not. And, make sure you drape everything around it in plastic.... fiberglass is bad.
i use the same method as above but i put down two layers of painter's tape, in opposite directions, before the aluminum foil. just an extra layer of protection. here are some shots from an old corner box from years ago for an SA8
Thats pretty cool. Kinda what I am after.
Not looking to do a mold and box is not being removed once done so glassing in place.
also how much of a PIA is it to get fresh wire through the doors to the speakers. Possible not possible. Setting up for 75watts rms each corner.
Thanks
Mark
yeah yeah no pics till the week end.
also how much of a PIA is it to get fresh wire through the doors to the speakers. Possible not possible.
depends on the trim level of your truck. i have an xlt and it doesn't use molex connectors in the doors so getting two runs of 14g wire (active front stage) was quite easy. higher levels of trim have more wiring running into the door that make it harder.
04-29-2018, 10:56 PM
2 10s behind the seat?? Back of cab as back of box??
