Anyone on here have any experience doing this? I've watched countless YouTube videos, etc. but am still nervous to try it! I picked up a harbor freight DA and chemicals guys pads. My truck is a '17 XLT sport that is loaded with swirls, light clear coat scratches only visible in certain lighting. Apparently whoever owned it before me took it through touch car washes on a regular basis. Is this something i should try to correct myself or just bit the bullet take it to a detailing shop?

 

I used a brand new, Maxshine M8 (similar to the harbor freight model) and a pad.
I purchased a finishing pad as I was nervous using it too aggressively. Also bought a waxing pad for a test pad, didn't want to contaminate my pad before doing the real work. The waxing pad was for me to do test areas.

The M8 was weak enough that it would be hard to damage the paint, same as your HF model. Just don't get an aggressive pad, and don't work the area too long to generate too much heat.
If you get a cutting pad, it will obviously cut the clear coat more quickly. You may need it, but if you are apprehensive, get a less aggressive pad for this go around.

I used Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions polish/wax on mine. With the cutting agents and the finer pad, I had good results. With that said, I recently purchased the truck used and it was detailed before I purchased. So I was already scratch free. It was a good learning experience for me to learn how to use the tool and apply a nice coating.

I don't want to recommend anything to you because I'm not experienced enough but I'd say get a medium aggressive pad and be careful. It took me a few panels before I was comfortable slowing down my movements to allow the area to work longer without fear of burning through.
Fortunately, my truck is silver and if I didn't get an area as good as another, I won't ever know.

 

I've had good luck with Griot Pricey but works

https://www.griotsgarage.com/categor...SAAEgJrWPD_BwE

 

With a DA, there should be pretty minimal risk. Just start with a test spot to determine what pad and polish to use and use the least aggressive combo that works. Even if you don't correct it to perfection, the improvement will be noticeable. Lay down a good sealant after and enjoy that showroom shine!

 

I have had good luck with Meguiars swirl remover but 3M also makes a great scratch remover. I use that and then follow with 3M Hand Glaze and finish with your choice of waxes. I like Meguiars Ultimate Liquid wax but there are a number of great ones out there. Good luck, be patient and remember to let the pad to the work, don't pressure it.

 

The DA fro harbor freight is a fair tool.
I'd start with the Meguiars Dual Action Polisher Thin Foam Pad Kit
I'd also start with Meguiars Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish

These compounds/polishes Megs UC and UP are good for learning with.

 

The Maxshine M8 D/A is similar cost to harbor freight I believe ($90).

Based on reviews from the detailers on YouTube, the Maxshine, for the money, is far superior than HF. However, I purchased mine a few months ago and have used it all of one time. If I'm lucky I'll use it 2 times a year. Maybe the cheap one would have been sufficient for me.
I could do it more often, but then I'd just be eating through clear coat, a little at a time.

 

Megs UC and UP are consumer product(s). They do not have the "cut" that commercial products have.
However, always use the least aggressive technique when polishing paint. Clearcoat is precious.

 

I have the HF DA and it works great. It is basically a grinder with a DA head, which means it is loud. Wear ear protection. It has more than enough power, and if you stall it, you are working it too hard, back off, it's bad for the paint. Take the backer it comes with and throw it out.

Get one of
Also a set of
For polishing I found that Chemical Guys has a pretty good set, and I like the Hybrid compound for getting the clear to shine. https://www.chemicalguys.com/v-line-...P_VKIT_16.html

Even if you don't use their compounds, I highly recommend their pad cleaning spray. A spritz of it on the pad before you polish a section keeps the compound from drying too quickly. I'm sure you know this from the videos, but it is extremely important, always reduce the speed before you apply it to the surface, and spread the compound at the slowest speed, gradually increasing speed as the compound is fully worked in, and reduce the speed all the way down, while keeping it moving before pulling it away and never stop it on the paint. Keep it moving and you will be fine, but don't move it too fast or you will wind up with more swirls than you start with.

With some patience and practice it can look like this

 

Actually my thoughts on a DA backing plate is the Meguiar's DBP5 5" Soft Buff DA Backing Plate
I much prefer 5" pads and a 5" backing plate on a standard 8mm throw DA.
As a matter of fact, I only have 5" pads (all types) in my collection.