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Like you stated...If Griot's is in your town I would go there!
The GG 6", 5" Backing plate and 5" pads. foam/microfiber.
I've heard great things about the GG's correcting cream.
I'd talk to the GG folks at the store. They should know.
Since I change hobbies a few times a month, and only using it a few times a year I just got the harbor freight one. Picked up the griots garage pads and boss correcting cream. Started on my jeep for practice, then on the ford which is white and hard to tell. Later on I did my dad's silver truck that hasn't been detailed in 4 years. I got 85% or so of the rockymountain pinstriping out, some was too deep.
As for wax I use to use Griots poly wax, but I tried the new best of show carnuba and haven't gone back.
Last edited by Brokemillwright; Dec 23, 2016 at 04:06 AM.
A minority point of view from the proud owner of a high-dollar Flex: For maintaining a car that is already in good condition, a DA is unnecessary. If you do get one, save a buck and get a Harbor Freight. These things aren't precision instruments by any stretch. Of course, if you want to do all three of your cars on the same day, that's a different matter. If you have to condition scratched paint, that's a different matter too.
For the average Joe, time and technology has passed the DA polisher by. If I were to go all-out on my truck as I would in the springtime, this is what I would do:
1. Fresh water only rinse at the coin-op, paying special attention to the undercarriage. Use actual soap for the wheels.
Back at the house:
2. "Garry Dean" method rinseless wash. Do it twice, just to be sure.
3. Claybar truck. I have a Nanoskin bonnet, which fits on the Flex. So that's a time saver.
4. Apply Chemical guys acrylic glaze. That would be by hand, although you could use the Flex. It would take about the same time. [I know that there are glazes that are kinda oily like a glazed doughnut. This CG product is dryer seems to give the 476 even more purchase].
5. Apply Collinite 476 paste wax, using the Flex. Flex is a big help with a hard paste wax. Removal could be done with Flex, but almost anyone would just use a microfiber towel.
6. Apply Natty's Red wax as a topper. You can use the Flex. It's marginal whether it's any kind of a time saver. Probably a more even application, anyway.
If I were doing it by hand it would be a little different:
I would have to claybar by hand. So that's 60 minutes lost, I admit. [Remember, I'm positing that the finish is already in good condition].
Instead of the Collinite, I would use Optimum Spray Wax (really a spray sealant) instead. To me, the Optimum product seems very similar in performance to the Chemical Guys Jetseal product, but even easier to use. There are many other easy to use sealants such as the aforesaid Jetseal. That earns you back the hour that you lost on the claybar. As a sealant, the Optimum has average durability. Four months is realistic.
There are many other little chores, of course, but none of them involve a DA.
Unless you live in a really gritty place, you shouldn't have to claybar your truck more than once or twice a year.
So the expedited way I describe would probably take a little over five hours.
The DA method would be almost six. Sure, the expedited method wouldn't last quite as long, but you could very easily bring back another 3-4 months of protection and shine during the year with about 3 hours of work.
I guess the point is, as much as I like the Collinite, it's not worth the cost of mechanizing your operation. You get 80 percent of the benefit, with about 15% of the hassle with easier products.
I like different LSP products on different paint finishes/colors.
E.G.: LSP's I'd use on white paint are totally different than black.
For white I want bright, shiny, sparkling, saran-wrap look.
For Black I like depth & warmth like a pool of calm water.
Do a 2'x2' paint correction "Test Spot" first.
Find the machine/pad/polish combo that works on each paint.
The final finish should be defect free (swirls etc.), sharp & clear
I like different LSP products on different paint finishes/colors.
E.G.: LSP's I'd use on white paint are totally different than black.
For white I want bright, shiny, sparkling, saran-wrap look.
For Black I like depth & warmth like a pool of calm water.
Do a 2'x2' paint correction "Test Spot" first.
Find the machine/pad/polish combo that works on each paint.
The final finish should be defect free (swirls etc.), sharp & clear
I apologise for the topic drift, Merlin, but I was truly impressed with the Natty's Red on my white truck. I tried it because it was fairly priced and I heard it was good on white. It certainly was. Had that "puddle of spilled wet paint" look.
I lean more toward the " preserve the finish" point of view than the "maximum shine no matter what" approach.
Do you worry that some of these decontamination products have a long term detrimental effect? I'm a little leery about them. Do they add much if the finish has been consistently kept waxed in a non-industrial area?-
