Britmick

I did try looking guys, but mine seems different from the other posted "transmission whine" symptoms.
It's there from start up & does go up with engine revs, but not keeping up with the revs, just lagging slightly behind.
If I push in the clutch pedal it changes from loud to not so loud.
It even went away at the beginning of making that noise after it warmed up.

Please don't tell me it's an expensive job, because the truck only cost me $950 5yrs ago

PS, it has 230k mls on what I think is the original gearbox.
PPS, it's a '95 F150 2WD with a 5 speed manual box.

Thanks in advance....

Boulevard

I think that you got your monies worth out of that truck.

I am no mechanic but I have fiddled around a bit and if the trans is working fine but only whines than the only thing that you really can do is change the fluid and pray. The oil should be Mercon for aluminum housing and gear oil for cast iron housing. Some people say use Mercon in both. You should check you dealer for oil type but a high grade oil or even a synthetic would do a better job than the cheap stuff. With the fluid change you can also use an aftermarket trans fluid additive. I did this once and it worked like a miracle on a hot running transfer case. You can get good oil and additives at almost any automotive parts store.

RLXXI

Sounds to me like the throw out bearing, time for a new clutch since you have to pull the trans out anyway.
.

Britmick

Can I run it until it gets really bad, or will that harm any other gearbox components??

RLXXI

Hard to say.
.

Britmick

OK, I got an oil change & the noise has changed a bit.

No noise on startup until I depress the clutch pedai (it's a stick shift)
In gear, moving, no noise.......depress pedal & whining noise!

Any more ideas guys????????

RLXXI

I'm Ford factory trained in manual transmission repair and I still say you have a clutch issue, throw out bearing to be more precise.
.

Britmick

Hey, l'm not questioning your knowledge , it's just that another guy tried helping with a change the oil theory, so I went with the easy/cheap option 1st.

So, will the throw out bearing suddenly go, or could it cause damage to anything else if I don't get it seen to soon?
Also, is it an expensive job?

RLXXI

The transmission has to come out. Call around local for the best price as prices are regional. You can price a clutch kit on any auto parts web site just make sure it comes with everything, clutch disk, pressure plate, and the throw out bearing, you may also need to have the fly wheel resurfaced if you get a lot of chattering when releasing the clutch pedal and the possibility the pilot bushing will need replacing, any mechanic that does this type of work will be able to tell just by looking at it.

Parts price wise not bad, expect the labor to be 2-3x's the cost of parts.

Can't say for sure every thing it'll need until it's all out in the open to visually inspect.
.

oldwest

i had clutch, pressure plate, slave cylinder and throw out bearing done by a local shop about 3-4 months ago on my 1996 f-150 2wd. Total bill parts/labor was $512.00. I had problems after getting it back and found out afterwards that the clutch master cylinder and hydraulic line with a pressure valve between the master cylinder and slave cylinder was also bad for an additional $200 parts/labor. Total between both repairs was $712.00. It would have probably been somewhat cheaper if the last repairs had been done when the first one was at the same time.

edit: make sure you use good parts! The first shop put in the slave cylinder from a well known chain auto parts store and the slave cylinder push rod eye connection broke off on 2 of them in a row before I took it back for the third time and specified that Ford part be used. They were honest and did not charge me any more for the parts/labor on the 2nd and third slave cylinder. Some shops possibly may not be that ethical.

oldwest