Instrument cluster lights stays on
#11
Got my switch today and installed it. I only took off the top of the console. You have to put the pickup in drive in order to lift off the top of the console. The switch is held on by two little tabs on each side. I tried using snap ring plyers to open them both up at the same time and got a little to aggressive and snapped the one off closest to the console lid. Bummer. But the new switch snapped in and holds fine so becareful. Hind sight I would have just used dental picks and tried to do one side at a time. Anyways I cut the wires about 1 inch from my old switch and about 3 inches from the new switch and used solder heat shrink connectors to splice them together. Everything works as it should now. Dash lights go off, red "P" is lit in the cluster when you are in park and the remote start works again. So hope this helps. Took about 45 minutes to do everything. Good Luck. Cheap $42 fix!!
#12
Got my switch today and installed it. I only took off the top of the console. You have to put the pickup in drive in order to lift off the top of the console. The switch is held on by two little tabs on each side. I tried using snap ring plyers to open them both up at the same time and got a little to aggressive and snapped the one off closest to the console lid. Bummer. But the new switch snapped in and holds fine so becareful. Hind sight I would have just used dental picks and tried to do one side at a time. Anyways I cut the wires about 1 inch from my old switch and about 3 inches from the new switch and used solder heat shrink connectors to splice them together. Everything works as it should now. Dash lights go off, red "P" is lit in the cluster when you are in park and the remote start works again. So hope this helps. Took about 45 minutes to do everything. Good Luck. Cheap $42 fix!!
Even cheaper fix at 19.00
https://www.ebay.com/itm/292977769442
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Gabe Williams (03-13-2020)