Correct on the above post.

My issue was the need for lights on without having truck running. As I typically load part of my gear/coolers/etc for the track at 0400, I’d rather not have the truck running, and I’m sure the neighbors would agree.

My solution was to hook up the inside trailer lights to a tool battery adapter. I generally use Milwaukee tools, so my lights come on now when an M18 battery is plugged in and the switches turned on. Minimal cost too.

 

First cargo trailer for me.

does this thread apply to a 2013?

I have the OEM tow setup including TBC.
installed the fuse and relay from the glovebox in 9 and 21 under the hood.

just turning parking lights on doesn’t allow those lights to work.

using auto start doesn’t allow them to work either.

“added new trailer” and still don’t have inside lights unless the key is in the ignition and turned to ON. ACC doesn’t activate them.

EDIT: why does punctuation show up like it is in my post?

and I will wait before I bust out the multimeter and follow this guy

12V Power Pin on 7-Way of 2013 Ford F-150 Isn't Receiving Power

Question:

I own a 2013 Ford F150 XLT Super Crew with the EcoBoost V6 that I purchased used in 2014. I recently purchased an enclosed snowmobile trailer new with a 7 pin connector. The truck came with the 7 pin receptacle. When I first connected the trailer, all lights worked with the exception of the interior lights. In researching the issue, I discovered this year, make and model came with a relay and fuse not installed. Many people on many forums stated when they installed the relay and fuse trailer tow battery charge relay and 30 amp fuse, the interior lights worked. The relay and fuse were not in the glove box so I purchased a relay and fuse and installed them. No luck. Interior lights still do not work. I hooked the trailer to a friends Chevy just to make the interior lights worked, and they came on. I have checked the wiring and the pins with a circuit tester with the truck running and just the ignition on. Nothing. Im beyond frustrated at this point.

asked by: Mike

Expert Reply:

Since you aren't getting any kind of power signal at the pin in the 1 o'clock position on the 7-Way on your 2013 Ford F-150 and you have installed the relay/fuse that is needed, my first thought is to make sure that there is actually wires running to the back of your 7-Way for those pins.

For some reason (and it isn't always consistent) truck manufacturers will sometimes install the 7-Way but not run the wiring all the way down the frame to the 7-Way. Check to make sure that the wiring is there, and if it is the next step would be to test the wiring itself. If the wire for your 12V power is connected to your battery and the wire itself has power then you need a new connector like part # HM40975.

If it doesn't have power then you could potentially have a short somewhere on that circuit and the rest of the wiring needs to be inspected.

Let me know if that doesn't fix your problem and I can help you troubleshoot further.
expert reply by: Jon G

 

Post #2 does.Read post #2 & the one you quoted, and learn how to activate the trailer on your truck. Did you try roadPilot's procedure OR follow his link?I guess because that's how you're typing it. You've gotta be a LOT more specific & descriptive if you want help.

 

I did check out the link. Was hoping I didn’t need to add a battery.

I guess I need to confirm if the breakaway battery is good. If not I have a small 12 V. I will just have to figure out how to wire that thing up and where to store it.

 

If it has a breakaway battery, you DON'T need to add one. Just wire your lights to it, through a switch. Then you only need to make sure that your truck activates the trailer battery charge relay.

 

i had three battery operated motion activated puck lights I stuck up for now!

 

I know this is an old post, by can you give a few details on how you wired it? Just ordered an adapter today...

 

I didn’t do the wiring. When I took my trailer in for normal service, I had them install it. Didn’t cost much. About $50 or something like that. That was a few years ago obviously.

 

I bought a little 5' X 10' cargo trailer a couple of years ago to turn into a "squaredrop" trailer. That conversion is about 90% complete. I'm not a carpenter, so it's taking forever.




When the trailer was in it's original trailer tail-, turn- and marker-lights wiring configuration, there was one interior light that was switched, and powered by the trailer's marker lights circuit. No strain on the truck because this little trailer interior light was one LED light which uses very little current.

I would not recommend using the trailer electric brakes' breakaway battery for lights unless you are rigorous about recharging it regularly. That battery must be reliable, and for that to happen it needs to stay charged.

Now the trailer has it's own battery bank, and any interior lighting (when I decide on their permanent placements) will be wired to that separate 12V "house" battery bank. Meanwhile I use a couple of different USB-charge port, rechargeable lights. Several different kinds and styles can be found on Amazon. Cheers.