waynofish

Unfortunately, I had to get rid of my 2020 F150 Screw 4x4 w/6 1/2ft bed and a diesel. Trying to go payment free on a truck and pay off a couple CC's. Will get another 2018-2020 Screw in a year or two.

So, now I'm looking for a 2004 to 2011, preferably Super Crew 4x4, for under 10 so I can pay cash. Unfortunately, there seem to be a fair amount with a little rust. So,

A little above rear wheels? A small amount can be cut out and the area can be covered by fender flares. That would give me an excuse to lift a bit and put larger/wider tires on to fill the flares. Did that with my 2020 2 months after I bought it new. (fell asleep and sideswiped a car) Fender flares covered the damage right up! The problem is that rust usually extends farther then the bubbling shows so I wouldn't go more then 30 minutes away to look at a vehicle with rust there.

The most common area I see is that little cab corner half the time has a hole. Has anybody used those plastic rocker covers? They are pricey though. Or how about using that 3M bonding adhesive on new metal cab corners and/or rockers as I don't have or know how to weld. It looks like they all come to the body line so any edge shouldn't be that noticeable.

Looking for input as cutting out and covering that cab corner and or rusted rocker could be the difference in being able to get a Super Crew Lariat vs a Supercab XL. There are some decent looking trucks listed but I stop looking as soon as I see that hole. But watching a video on installing those covers got me thinking. On many, that little bit of rot is the only issue!

allinon72

I commend your goal of being payment free and I did the exact same thing about 10 years ago. I bought a truck with “mild” rust and thought I could mitigate it the same way you described. Problem is, what you see is about 10% of the cancer. You think you have it covered, then another spot pops up. You end up playing whack-a-mole with the rust damage. My best advice would be to buy the cleanest, rust free truck you can find. It’s important to focus on value, not price. That is what is going to save you money in the long run, even if you have to borrow a little at the beginning.

JaseBosto

You are looking for a pretty old truck. Even a 2011 is 12 years old now.

That aside, I find your priorities a bit conflicting. You want out of the payment to pay things off, but want to lift an old beat truck and put big tires on it. That isn't going to be cheap, and odds are something will go wrong along the way. Not to forget the terrible mileage a old 4.6 or 5.4 will get, probably single digits.

I too commend your goal of payment free. But if you really want that, it kind of goes hand in hand with accepting a simple truck. Mine isn't payment free. But the payment is super low and 0%.

eyecandynsx

How long do you plan on keeping it? If you only plan on keeping a year or so then sure. Because your methods of repair are, to be very honest here, not even half-assing a repair... maybe closer to quarter-assing a repair. Why would you buy a rusty truck, then spend the money on a lift / tires so you can put flares over the rust? Take that money and get the rust fixed correctly instead of buying a lift / tires.

waynofish

I was using the level/tires as an example. I probably should not have mentioned that because I understand that just bubbled out fenders can have rust much farther outward by the time it is cut out. Had a dodge ram with flares that I did a check underneath and it was rusted. cut ALL the rust out, put the flares back on and there was still nothing protruding past the flares 3 years later when I sold it, with them knowing. As far a level and tires, not planning to as it would take from my budget for a dentside. But I know me and I could see doing something later if the tires needed replacing. Pretty much the only vehicles I've had and the only problems I've ever had from doing that was 1 of my old 79 Broncos in another life liked eating driveshafts.

I understand MPG's and in reality, selling that great MPG 3.0 diesel truck, I can get an 8cyl with worse gas and only pay a 50/month more for fuel when taking into account added cost of diesel. Another reason I am questioning getting a truck with rust on the rockers. Yes, I know there will be other issues on an older truck.

Yes, I understand 1/4 assing, LOL, if even that. But it seems 3 out of 5 Super crews from those years have that rust on the cab corner, and possibly rockers. I am just trying to see if anybody have fixed this area in the nontraditional way. It looks like those areas can have the rust completely cut out in the area the new panels would cover. It would be about 2 years to have this truck as a daily in which then it would go to second as I should be back up to get another 2018 -2020. I see the plastic covers as an option but am really wondering about using that body panel adhesive for the real replacement rockers and cab corners. I would think the rockers could even be screwed underneath where they are supposed to be riveted. Welding/body shop is out of the question.

And I can paint the rockers between the tires if I want to complete the repair. I like that two tone look.

Yes, I know its an older truck....Old to me will be pre 90 but that is a different search (78/79) when I start making money again (seasonal). I just got rid of a payment on the nicest truck I've ever had to pay off a few credit cards and eliminate that payment. Risk? Yes. But it was/is the best option at the moment. Working seasonal makes me put large down payments when I buy new so if the need comes to sell, I actually get money back to take care of what I need to do.

Thanks for the input as what your saying makes sence. And I did reread my initial post and it read as if I intent to automatically lift it. But I'm not. Just want a nice looking and comfortable 4x4 to hold me over until I can go to a newer, or new one again.

waynofish

Not wanting to and the "rusty" I'm talking about is that typical cab corner issue of Fords. I live on MD's coast so my range of vehicles will be from DE, PA, VA . Most will be from the populated areas around DC, Balt, Philly so road salt. Those closer to me on the coast, salty air, beach driving, boat ramps and tidal marshes. Yep, rust is a thing.

Trying to see reality as there are plenty of really nice vehicles with just that small bit but the interiors are nice and the rest of the truck looks great as well. Or no rust with torn seats, scratches and higher miles for the same price.

djfllmn

iTrader: (1)

IMO, if you look hard enough you can find one that isn't rusty. Thats playing a dangerous game when you buy something with rust like that. If it gets bad enough you start to compromise the structural integrity of the vehicle

wpg_f150

A lot of folks down south get scared of a little rust, but your truck isn't going to snap in half because of a little frame rust lol.

Buy something with the least amount of rust and then clean off what rust there is and then undercoat the frame and on the body you can spray with rock guard or or similar products and prolong the life of the body no problem.

Matt B.

Is there any chance you could take a little road trip to buy your new (used) truck? You'd probably be best served to not buy a used truck from PA or any of those surrounding states. There are other states where they just don't rust out like they do in your area.

waynofish

Unfortunately, I can't right now. A couple of problems. MD has a strict,1 time inspection, so it would be nice to get one already inspected so that would only include MD. Yes, a rust hole would need to be fixed but some know the right people as I see some of these inspected, esp dealers. And if I take a 3 hour fan out from where I am, the 4 points would be Philly, DC, NC/VA border and somewhere deep in the Washington canyon offshore!...all in the zone of rust from salted roads to salty beach. Stretch it a bit and i'm going farther into PA, adding NJ, WV and the VA mountains (again, salt) The only place would possibly be around Raleigh but it's just getting too far.