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What year diesels to avoid?

 
Old 07-07-2017, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by acdii View Post
Is that with our without the trailer attached? I ran some numbers, just not in the cards yet. Was going to give my truck to my wife and trade her Focus in on a SD, but now that IL passed a tax increase, aint gonna happen.

That was without trailer. If I drop speed to 70 or so the mpgs are closer to 19 or little over. That 10mph hits me pretty hard.
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Old 07-08-2017, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by acdii View Post
Thats what I thought, but wasn't sure. I knew the 6.0 was junk, but wasn't sure on the 6.4. Have heard nothing bad about the 6.7 and the two I test drove had tons of power, lit the back end pulling onto a county highway.
Check this out!

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Old 07-09-2017, 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 5.0GN tow View Post
That was without trailer. If I drop speed to 70 or so the mpgs are closer to 19 or little over. That 10mph hits me pretty hard.
Should have added only get in the 18 to 19 in the flat, hitting the hills seems to drop me down pretty quick too. On the return trip yesterday from VA ran 541 miles on 34 gallons which was showing 15.88 by my math. We ran hard through hills all the way from until we got past eastern OH again. Eastern VA was a lot of stop and start non interstate for about 150 of the 540 and then we were in the Shenandoah area and Appalachians after that. We tanked at Shell in Heathville VA and at Speedway in Columbus Ohio, not too bad on one tank.

Last edited by 5.0GN tow; 07-09-2017 at 06:15 AM.
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Old 07-09-2017, 09:53 PM
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There is a lot of misinformation about the 6.0L... The issue people have is that they think they can tune the hell out of to be a race truck like you used to be able to do with the 7.3 but you just can't do that. As long as you keep up with the maintinence on a 6.0 you'll be good. As far as the people saying "you have to bulletproof it", you don't. If you're EGR goes out then get the BPD diesel EGR or do an EGR delete. If your gaskets blow, then do the ARP headstuds. There's no point in doing all this work before the parts actually go bad.

The issues with the 6.4 stem from the DPF system in that when it goes into regen mode it pretty much overheats the truck to burn off the carbon which leads to many many issues. Heat is a big issue for PSD trucks.

I myself was in the same situation 7 months ago when I bought my truck. I knew I wanted a PSD, however the 7.3 was too old and the 4R100 tranny didn't suit the truck and I'm not trying to drive a manual in down town Seattle lol. The 6.0 has issues but most of its reputation came from the 03 and 04 trucks. The 05-07 is what you want if you're going to go with a 6.0L. As others have said just stay away from the 6.4L. That brings us to the 6.7. You can spend $30k+ on a 6.7L and hope that your truck is as solid as the general reputation it holds, or you can buy an older truck and save the money.

I bought a 2006 F-250 6.0L. The simple fact being that my truck is in great shape, it's a King Ranch with (at the time) 160k miles and I paid $16k for it. I could've dumped $26k on a 2012 with the 6.7L and hope to get a high mile Lariat or a similar mile XLT and hope to god it doesn't have issues. I know with my truck I can have $10k in repairs before I'm at the same price point as a 6.7 and I know if I have to do those mods / repairs my truck is arguably more solid than the 6.7. That's not to mention I don't have to fill up with DEF and my exhaust doesn't weigh 200 LBS lol.

Saying you HAVE to stud and EGR delete is 6.0 is like saying you have to EGR and DPF delete a 6.7. You don't have to if you treat the truck right.
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Old 07-10-2017, 08:53 AM
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If ya really want a great diesel, come to SD and go buy my old one that is at the dealer right now. 06 Dodge 3500. New fuel pump lines and injectors last spring. 225K miles. Full leather interior in great shape. I went with that truck when I went into diesel because for my price range it was the best choice. The 6.4 had just come out and was way out of my ballpark and there were too many horror stories about the 6.0 without real facts at the time. Going back to the posts about the 6.0 needing work, it is just a recommendation of finding one where all the work has been completed and paid for by someone else. It is mostly labor in the bill and adds no extra value to the truck. Biggest thing is to find one with maintenance history.
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Old 07-10-2017, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by 5.0GN tow View Post
Should have added only get in the 18 to 19 in the flat, hitting the hills seems to drop me down pretty quick too. On the return trip yesterday from VA ran 541 miles on 34 gallons which was showing 15.88 by my math. We ran hard through hills all the way from until we got past eastern OH again. Eastern VA was a lot of stop and start non interstate for about 150 of the 540 and then we were in the Shenandoah area and Appalachians after that. We tanked at Shell in Heathville VA and at Speedway in Columbus Ohio, not too bad on one tank.
Back in Sept 04 I drove my 99 F350 Dually with the 7.3 from IL to Washington DC, and averaged roughly 19 MPG. That was with 4.10 gears, after I replaced hem with 3.73 the MPG went up 1, but never took any long trips after that as diesel was just too damned expensive.
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Old 07-10-2017, 10:02 PM
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Yep those pre emission trucks could put some MPGs up that is for sure.
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Old 07-11-2017, 04:10 AM
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Originally Posted by acdii View Post
but now that IL passed a tax increase, aint gonna happen.
Just move to Kalifornia and get it over with. We have taxes on everything except getting out of bed (maybe that's why nobody does!) .
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Old 07-11-2017, 04:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Red-Ford View Post
There is a lot of misinformation about the 6.0L... The issue people have is that they think they can tune the hell out of to be a race truck like you used to be able to do with the 7.3 but you just can't do that. As long as you keep up with the maintinence on a 6.0 you'll be good. As far as the people saying "you have to bulletproof it", you don't. If you're EGR goes out then get the BPD diesel EGR or do an EGR delete. If your gaskets blow, then do the ARP headstuds. There's no point in doing all this work before the parts actually go bad.

The issues with the 6.4 stem from the DPF system in that when it goes into regen mode it pretty much overheats the truck to burn off the carbon which leads to many many issues. Heat is a big issue for PSD trucks.

I myself was in the same situation 7 months ago when I bought my truck. I knew I wanted a PSD, however the 7.3 was too old and the 4R100 tranny didn't suit the truck and I'm not trying to drive a manual in down town Seattle lol. The 6.0 has issues but most of its reputation came from the 03 and 04 trucks. The 05-07 is what you want if you're going to go with a 6.0L. As others have said just stay away from the 6.4L. That brings us to the 6.7. You can spend $30k+ on a 6.7L and hope that your truck is as solid as the general reputation it holds, or you can buy an older truck and save the money.

I bought a 2006 F-250 6.0L. The simple fact being that my truck is in great shape, it's a King Ranch with (at the time) 160k miles and I paid $16k for it. I could've dumped $26k on a 2012 with the 6.7L and hope to get a high mile Lariat or a similar mile XLT and hope to god it doesn't have issues. I know with my truck I can have $10k in repairs before I'm at the same price point as a 6.7 and I know if I have to do those mods / repairs my truck is arguably more solid than the 6.7. That's not to mention I don't have to fill up with DEF and my exhaust doesn't weigh 200 LBS lol.

Saying you HAVE to stud and EGR delete is 6.0 is like saying you have to EGR and DPF delete a 6.7. You don't have to if you treat the truck right.
Buy this man a beer ! Spot on. Prior to my current 6.7 I had an '06-6.0. It was an excellent truck. Pulled our 5er to AK. and across the lower 48 several times. I traded it in on the 6.7 and then bought a nice used f150 (the 05, the 13 just kinda' happened) for my daily driver/ranch truck. In hindsight I wish I'd have kept the 6.0 for the DD, I loved that truck-zero problems. Also as mentioned, you can't do much to the 6.0 performance wise, because it's operating at it's design limitations in factory tune. It wasn't a margin motor like the 6.7 and its current competitors. All the current engines were designed with a considerable margin of available power above its listed rating at the time of it's release. All they have to do now is tweak the tuning to get the power up a little each year to remain competitive.

Last edited by PerryB; 07-11-2017 at 08:42 PM.
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Old 07-11-2017, 09:16 AM
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OK, I got it, find a newer 6.4 and throw a 7.3 in it and be done with it! Emissions? We no need no stinkin emissions!
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