What year diesels to avoid?
#11
That was without trailer. If I drop speed to 70 or so the mpgs are closer to 19 or little over. That 10mph hits me pretty hard.
#13
Should have added only get in the 18 to 19 in the flat, hitting the hills seems to drop me down pretty quick too. On the return trip yesterday from VA ran 541 miles on 34 gallons which was showing 15.88 by my math. We ran hard through hills all the way from until we got past eastern OH again. Eastern VA was a lot of stop and start non interstate for about 150 of the 540 and then we were in the Shenandoah area and Appalachians after that. We tanked at Shell in Heathville VA and at Speedway in Columbus Ohio, not too bad on one tank.
Last edited by 5.0GN tow; 07-09-2017 at 06:15 AM.
#14
Senior Member
There is a lot of misinformation about the 6.0L... The issue people have is that they think they can tune the hell out of to be a race truck like you used to be able to do with the 7.3 but you just can't do that. As long as you keep up with the maintinence on a 6.0 you'll be good. As far as the people saying "you have to bulletproof it", you don't. If you're EGR goes out then get the BPD diesel EGR or do an EGR delete. If your gaskets blow, then do the ARP headstuds. There's no point in doing all this work before the parts actually go bad.
The issues with the 6.4 stem from the DPF system in that when it goes into regen mode it pretty much overheats the truck to burn off the carbon which leads to many many issues. Heat is a big issue for PSD trucks.
I myself was in the same situation 7 months ago when I bought my truck. I knew I wanted a PSD, however the 7.3 was too old and the 4R100 tranny didn't suit the truck and I'm not trying to drive a manual in down town Seattle lol. The 6.0 has issues but most of its reputation came from the 03 and 04 trucks. The 05-07 is what you want if you're going to go with a 6.0L. As others have said just stay away from the 6.4L. That brings us to the 6.7. You can spend $30k+ on a 6.7L and hope that your truck is as solid as the general reputation it holds, or you can buy an older truck and save the money.
I bought a 2006 F-250 6.0L. The simple fact being that my truck is in great shape, it's a King Ranch with (at the time) 160k miles and I paid $16k for it. I could've dumped $26k on a 2012 with the 6.7L and hope to get a high mile Lariat or a similar mile XLT and hope to god it doesn't have issues. I know with my truck I can have $10k in repairs before I'm at the same price point as a 6.7 and I know if I have to do those mods / repairs my truck is arguably more solid than the 6.7. That's not to mention I don't have to fill up with DEF and my exhaust doesn't weigh 200 LBS lol.
Saying you HAVE to stud and EGR delete is 6.0 is like saying you have to EGR and DPF delete a 6.7. You don't have to if you treat the truck right.
The issues with the 6.4 stem from the DPF system in that when it goes into regen mode it pretty much overheats the truck to burn off the carbon which leads to many many issues. Heat is a big issue for PSD trucks.
I myself was in the same situation 7 months ago when I bought my truck. I knew I wanted a PSD, however the 7.3 was too old and the 4R100 tranny didn't suit the truck and I'm not trying to drive a manual in down town Seattle lol. The 6.0 has issues but most of its reputation came from the 03 and 04 trucks. The 05-07 is what you want if you're going to go with a 6.0L. As others have said just stay away from the 6.4L. That brings us to the 6.7. You can spend $30k+ on a 6.7L and hope that your truck is as solid as the general reputation it holds, or you can buy an older truck and save the money.
I bought a 2006 F-250 6.0L. The simple fact being that my truck is in great shape, it's a King Ranch with (at the time) 160k miles and I paid $16k for it. I could've dumped $26k on a 2012 with the 6.7L and hope to get a high mile Lariat or a similar mile XLT and hope to god it doesn't have issues. I know with my truck I can have $10k in repairs before I'm at the same price point as a 6.7 and I know if I have to do those mods / repairs my truck is arguably more solid than the 6.7. That's not to mention I don't have to fill up with DEF and my exhaust doesn't weigh 200 LBS lol.
Saying you HAVE to stud and EGR delete is 6.0 is like saying you have to EGR and DPF delete a 6.7. You don't have to if you treat the truck right.
#15
Senior Member
If ya really want a great diesel, come to SD and go buy my old one that is at the dealer right now. 06 Dodge 3500. New fuel pump lines and injectors last spring. 225K miles. Full leather interior in great shape. I went with that truck when I went into diesel because for my price range it was the best choice. The 6.4 had just come out and was way out of my ballpark and there were too many horror stories about the 6.0 without real facts at the time. Going back to the posts about the 6.0 needing work, it is just a recommendation of finding one where all the work has been completed and paid for by someone else. It is mostly labor in the bill and adds no extra value to the truck. Biggest thing is to find one with maintenance history.
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Should have added only get in the 18 to 19 in the flat, hitting the hills seems to drop me down pretty quick too. On the return trip yesterday from VA ran 541 miles on 34 gallons which was showing 15.88 by my math. We ran hard through hills all the way from until we got past eastern OH again. Eastern VA was a lot of stop and start non interstate for about 150 of the 540 and then we were in the Shenandoah area and Appalachians after that. We tanked at Shell in Heathville VA and at Speedway in Columbus Ohio, not too bad on one tank.
#18
Senior Member
#19
Senior Member
There is a lot of misinformation about the 6.0L... The issue people have is that they think they can tune the hell out of to be a race truck like you used to be able to do with the 7.3 but you just can't do that. As long as you keep up with the maintinence on a 6.0 you'll be good. As far as the people saying "you have to bulletproof it", you don't. If you're EGR goes out then get the BPD diesel EGR or do an EGR delete. If your gaskets blow, then do the ARP headstuds. There's no point in doing all this work before the parts actually go bad.
The issues with the 6.4 stem from the DPF system in that when it goes into regen mode it pretty much overheats the truck to burn off the carbon which leads to many many issues. Heat is a big issue for PSD trucks.
I myself was in the same situation 7 months ago when I bought my truck. I knew I wanted a PSD, however the 7.3 was too old and the 4R100 tranny didn't suit the truck and I'm not trying to drive a manual in down town Seattle lol. The 6.0 has issues but most of its reputation came from the 03 and 04 trucks. The 05-07 is what you want if you're going to go with a 6.0L. As others have said just stay away from the 6.4L. That brings us to the 6.7. You can spend $30k+ on a 6.7L and hope that your truck is as solid as the general reputation it holds, or you can buy an older truck and save the money.
I bought a 2006 F-250 6.0L. The simple fact being that my truck is in great shape, it's a King Ranch with (at the time) 160k miles and I paid $16k for it. I could've dumped $26k on a 2012 with the 6.7L and hope to get a high mile Lariat or a similar mile XLT and hope to god it doesn't have issues. I know with my truck I can have $10k in repairs before I'm at the same price point as a 6.7 and I know if I have to do those mods / repairs my truck is arguably more solid than the 6.7. That's not to mention I don't have to fill up with DEF and my exhaust doesn't weigh 200 LBS lol.
Saying you HAVE to stud and EGR delete is 6.0 is like saying you have to EGR and DPF delete a 6.7. You don't have to if you treat the truck right.
The issues with the 6.4 stem from the DPF system in that when it goes into regen mode it pretty much overheats the truck to burn off the carbon which leads to many many issues. Heat is a big issue for PSD trucks.
I myself was in the same situation 7 months ago when I bought my truck. I knew I wanted a PSD, however the 7.3 was too old and the 4R100 tranny didn't suit the truck and I'm not trying to drive a manual in down town Seattle lol. The 6.0 has issues but most of its reputation came from the 03 and 04 trucks. The 05-07 is what you want if you're going to go with a 6.0L. As others have said just stay away from the 6.4L. That brings us to the 6.7. You can spend $30k+ on a 6.7L and hope that your truck is as solid as the general reputation it holds, or you can buy an older truck and save the money.
I bought a 2006 F-250 6.0L. The simple fact being that my truck is in great shape, it's a King Ranch with (at the time) 160k miles and I paid $16k for it. I could've dumped $26k on a 2012 with the 6.7L and hope to get a high mile Lariat or a similar mile XLT and hope to god it doesn't have issues. I know with my truck I can have $10k in repairs before I'm at the same price point as a 6.7 and I know if I have to do those mods / repairs my truck is arguably more solid than the 6.7. That's not to mention I don't have to fill up with DEF and my exhaust doesn't weigh 200 LBS lol.
Saying you HAVE to stud and EGR delete is 6.0 is like saying you have to EGR and DPF delete a 6.7. You don't have to if you treat the truck right.
Last edited by PerryB; 07-11-2017 at 08:42 PM.
#20
Senior Member
Thread Starter
OK, I got it, find a newer 6.4 and throw a 7.3 in it and be done with it! Emissions? We no need no stinkin emissions!