Sputtering and Stalling Carb
I have an 85 and it had an aftermarket edelbrock carb in it. It has a high idle to begin with anywhere from 1000-2500 rpms and cant quite adjust it at all. Previous owner said it had a high idle kit on it? Not sure what that means. Anyways, sporadically when slowing down or coming to a stopsign or light, the engine will slow down and idle to 200-500 rpms and sometimes stall out. I always have to pump the gas and rev it a lot to prevent stalling.
Possible problems:
•Improperly adjusted carb?
•Bad or faulty fuel filter?
•Low oil? (burns oil and need to add a quart every month)
•**** in the fuel tank like rust and bad gas sometimes?
•Dirty valves in the carb?
Any other suggestions?
Also, random but i have bled the brake lines multiple times and it seems like they get really loose and I need to do it again every couple hundred miles. The master cylinder may leak because the first chamber is always empty but I can't find any leak or liquid runoff.
Ok thanks
Possible problems:
•Improperly adjusted carb?
•Bad or faulty fuel filter?
•Low oil? (burns oil and need to add a quart every month)
•**** in the fuel tank like rust and bad gas sometimes?
•Dirty valves in the carb?
Any other suggestions?
Also, random but i have bled the brake lines multiple times and it seems like they get really loose and I need to do it again every couple hundred miles. The master cylinder may leak because the first chamber is always empty but I can't find any leak or liquid runoff.
Ok thanks
Possible problems 1,2,4,&5 along with a compromised float sound possible. Or could be a vac leak.
Empty chamber dont mean its leaking at master cyl. Follow the front chamber line from master to wheel. Pretty certain you will find a pinhole at least.
Empty chamber dont mean its leaking at master cyl. Follow the front chamber line from master to wheel. Pretty certain you will find a pinhole at least.
How exactly would I check for a vacuum leak on a carburetor? Also, is the float easy to replace on a carb or do I need to disassemble the thing just to get it out? With the whole brake fluid thing, I have replaced the back right caliper because it was leaking pretty good and getting air in the lines. It might be that the back left one has a leak as well.
The vac leak could be in a carb with a vac secondary. But you have the base of the carb could be loose from the intake, vac lines all over the motor, the intake to head seal. Could even be the choke getting stuck.
What engine. Generally there is a filter in the carb where the fuel line enters. If not the only other "filter" would be a sock on the pick up in the tank. These can get nasty over time especially if rust builds up.
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If your not familiar with doing a carb overhaul get somebody to help you, everything everybody else has told you is correct. Like said above lightly spray in very short bursts all around the carb and intake area, while the engine is running at low idle, when the idle goes up you have found the area of the vacuum leak. That high idle kit thing is BS. A good carb overhaul and a fresh set of plugs would probably take care of 80% of your headaches.
Check for brake fluid on the inside of the fire wall, under the master cylinder. Had a leak I couldn't find for years on my Comet until I took the carpet out. It was leaking from the piston on the master cylinder and the fire wall insulation had been soaking it up.
I always thought it might be rain water after a storm but that makes complete sense.

