When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
First just want to give a big thanks to everyone who helped me with my brake issue. First time I can actually drive the truck and worry about something else other than the brakes.
What I need help with is just how to remove this reverse switch. I circled the 3 bolts yellow and the clip red. I'm assuming this is all that's needed to take it off? It seems I also need a seal there as well. Hopefully I don't have to remove the pan, I just changed filter and this was the first time I didn't have trans fluid in my armpits. I was so proud of myself. I got a warning the other day that the lights weren't working. Cop said he's a Ford guy so he gave me a warning.
Shift shaft seal will be difficult to replace
The neutral safety switch comes off just by pulling the kickdown link and stud nut and the 2 bolts circled in yellow
You just wiggle the kickdown link off and remove the switch with a screwdriver
Then you can inspect the shaft seal
I'd probably just clean it up, replace the switch and see how bad it leaks
I hope you ruled out a wiring issue which I would believe to be more common of a failure.
I have good continuity before and after the switch. Fuses are good and lights all work. They used to work I know for sure as I wired it to pull my fishing boat. It been drenched in PS fluid for years and the connector on the back of the switch is loose. I've taken them apart before on other rigs and had them be completely rusted out. It was a crank but no start issue. I've checked connectors for corrosion as that's been the main issue with dash and driving lights from sitting so long. Doing this to keep my mind off my brake issue. I was good for a few days which is the best it's ever been, then it started squealing and locking up again. Going to remove E brake cables and measure to be sure they're the right length. Seems like the adjuster keeps over tightening. I can back it off and it's good for a little bit. It works like it should, if I put pressure on the cable it lifts the adjuster off the star then moves it one click tight when I release it. Guess I'll start replacing hardware again for the 4th time. Not sure what else to do at this point.
Thanks,
Rory
Shift shaft seal will be difficult to replace
The neutral safety switch comes off just by pulling the kickdown link and stud nut and the 2 bolts circled in yellow
You just wiggle the kickdown link off and remove the switch with a screwdriver
Then you can inspect the shaft seal
I'd probably just clean it up, replace the switch and see how bad it leaks
Actually not sure it's the seal to be honest, the input seal on the steering gear box leaks terribly so I"m hoping that all it is as the seals aren't too bad to change in it.
Thanks for the info. Got it off and wires are loose on the back and it's soaked in fluid.
There is an updated input seal for your steering gear
You can, or used to could, be able to buy the seal separately from Ford parts
I used to replace them with the steering gear still in the truck
Job paid 3.5 hours or so, I could do them in 30 minutes taking my time
Tricks of the trade
There is an updated input seal for your steering gear
You can, or used to could, be able to buy the seal separately from Ford parts
I used to replace them with the steering gear still in the truck
Job paid 3.5 hours or so, I could do them in 30 minutes taking my time
Tricks of the trade
That's good to know, I'll check it out. Was going to try it installed as well but everything is so coated in oil and dirt that I want to clean it while I'm at it. This is the dirt I had to scrape off just to find the neutral safety switch, it was THICK!!