Master cylinder
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 14
Likes: 1
From: Tabernacle, NJ
The hardest part of this job is working under the dash to get the pushrod detached/re-attached.
Its a good idea to replace the master at the same time. A critical thing to check whether you replace both or not, is the length of the pushrod between the booster and master....Too short and your vehicle will not apply the breaks enough and too long and you brakes may drag, The other critical item is to bench bleed the master if you replace it. Bench bleeding it will take 15 minutes and save you lots of time trying to purge air at each corner if you do not. You just need a short line, that screws into the outlets and bends back over into the reservoir so it pumps the fluid back in. I like to use a wood dowel to push the master piston, as a screwdriver can score the bore and lead to a failed master. After bench bleeding you'll have to bleed all corners starting with right rear. Speed bleeds help a bunch and are worth the $10 each. They are sold by Dorman, Russell, etc.
Its a good idea to replace the master at the same time. A critical thing to check whether you replace both or not, is the length of the pushrod between the booster and master....Too short and your vehicle will not apply the breaks enough and too long and you brakes may drag, The other critical item is to bench bleed the master if you replace it. Bench bleeding it will take 15 minutes and save you lots of time trying to purge air at each corner if you do not. You just need a short line, that screws into the outlets and bends back over into the reservoir so it pumps the fluid back in. I like to use a wood dowel to push the master piston, as a screwdriver can score the bore and lead to a failed master. After bench bleeding you'll have to bleed all corners starting with right rear. Speed bleeds help a bunch and are worth the $10 each. They are sold by Dorman, Russell, etc.