???knock Sensor???
#1
???knock Sensor???
I built a 302 about two years ago, and spent a good chunk builing it. I recently decided to pull it out of the ranger I had it in, and had been debating on what I was going to put it in. Well after a week or so of thought, I decided to put it in my 85 F150.
The truck already has a 5.0, but I want to retain the EFI. The engine I built was a mid 70's block, I know the casting are pretty much the same. My question is, does the older block have a place to mount the sensor, or is their a way to eliminate the knock sensor?
The truck already has a 5.0, but I want to retain the EFI. The engine I built was a mid 70's block, I know the casting are pretty much the same. My question is, does the older block have a place to mount the sensor, or is their a way to eliminate the knock sensor?
#2
Senior Member
Don't know about mounting locations on the older blocks.
If it's not present, perhaps consider investigating whether a machine shop could duplicate the mounting arrangement, or if nothing else, connect the sensor so it doesn't give you a fault, leave it dangling, and be careful to listen and perhaps adjust timing for any knocking????
If it's not present, perhaps consider investigating whether a machine shop could duplicate the mounting arrangement, or if nothing else, connect the sensor so it doesn't give you a fault, leave it dangling, and be careful to listen and perhaps adjust timing for any knocking????
#3
My advice would be just don't worry about it...
The knock sensor just limits your RPM's from going to high. I always unplug them because you lose performance with it on.
But I know that if they are unplugged on a chevy or dodge the truck won't run, but since you have a ford, just leave it unplugged.
The knock sensor just limits your RPM's from going to high. I always unplug them because you lose performance with it on.
But I know that if they are unplugged on a chevy or dodge the truck won't run, but since you have a ford, just leave it unplugged.
#4
none.
Join Date: May 2007
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you dont lose performance, if you get spark knock on the top end, you are already losing performance. They can be used very effectively in a forced induction app.
that being said, knock sensors are typically located in the valley, one for each cylinder bank. You dont need much metal, just enough to drill, tap, and bolt in.
that being said, knock sensors are typically located in the valley, one for each cylinder bank. You dont need much metal, just enough to drill, tap, and bolt in.
#5
Don't know about mounting locations on the older blocks.
If it's not present, perhaps consider investigating whether a machine shop could duplicate the mounting arrangement, or if nothing else, connect the sensor so it doesn't give you a fault, leave it dangling, and be careful to listen and perhaps adjust timing for any knocking????
If it's not present, perhaps consider investigating whether a machine shop could duplicate the mounting arrangement, or if nothing else, connect the sensor so it doesn't give you a fault, leave it dangling, and be careful to listen and perhaps adjust timing for any knocking????
I never intended for the motor to be fuel injected, or I would have built it with a newer, roller block. But I aleady built it, and it runs fine. I wouldn't be considering the swap, but the motor thats in the truck is holding low oil pressure ( hovers between the N and O on the guage. I'm not comfortable with it down there)
#6
Does anyone know the signal ranges of the knock sensor. I am considering putting either a resistor, or potentiometer in it's place, just ro retain some adjustability.
According to what I have been reading, there is a certain ohm that the sensor reads that will create the most efficient output (in that specific function). I am just wondering if it would be worth putting twenty bucks into?
Just considering retaining adjustability.
According to what I have been reading, there is a certain ohm that the sensor reads that will create the most efficient output (in that specific function). I am just wondering if it would be worth putting twenty bucks into?
Just considering retaining adjustability.