Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

The choke on my Chevy was sticking shut and it wouldn't let the truck run for more than about a minute. Did you try the starting fluid?

BostonPerformance

I have the choke stuck open, I think the metal coil on the electric choke is broken... the end that goes into the slot on the stud in the middle of it's housing broke off so I dug out the broken end and inserted the end of the coil back in there. It's not coiled in a perfect circle, more of an oval. don't know if it matters..
I pulled the plugs and one of them had almost no gap and all of them were black. I think that it's starting the first time because it's not flooded, then it's flooding, that's why it won't start till the next day, because the fuel has to evaporate.

BostonPerformance

Ok so I pulled the plugs like I said and they were all black.
I went and got new ones, gapped them at .44, plugged them in and set them in order on the valve cover and had my brother try to start it. I don't think I'm getting the proper spark- cyl 1 only sparked once in like 30 secs of him turning the key. It seems that some aren't sparking at all, and the ones that are are only getting sporadic spark.
I guess I should replace the plug wires, but what else? Should I go ahead and get a distributor cap? or do I need the entire distributor? and what type of distributor is it? autozone said there are two types, a direct one and a remote one.

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

Other than the obvious wires, cap, rotor, and plugs, the two other things important for spark are the ICM and PIP in the distributor. ICM is most common, and it can be tested so have the parts store test it.

BostonPerformance

icm? pictures or help on locating that?

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

Ignition control module. Not sure where it is on your particular year truck. On mine it's bolted to the side of the distributor, but it also may be mounted to the inner fenderwell.