Good old Bill

Hi neighbor, before we have an international crisis here, lets talk about the weather. Just kidding, like what both Sean and Ham are saying. Both have strong points. Those fender mounted ign modules were horrible, Ford had alot of problems with them. Make sure through a Ford parts department, what color module you are supposed to have. Remember nearly all colors of the rainbow being used. Don't like no fuel to or from the carb. Bad sign. Backfiring? Loud bangs, pops or just fire? Bangs and pops, ign related. Fire could be just flooded with a poorly seating intake valve. Sorry for no miracle cures being offered up, just trying to clarify some points being said. Have to get ready for work, check with yas later.

selrox

Checked the fuel line and bypassed the tank selector valve so it gets fuel directly from the side tank now.
Gets more than enough fuel rigged like this.
Ran the car for about 10 minutes and as soon as it warmed up it died
Checked for spark on plug #1 , has spark.
I'm slowly loosing my mind now.
Checked the vacuum lines and the vacuum system on the distributor.
Also checked rotor and cap, looks fine.

Need some more input...........

Thanks.

Rob.

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

I'm telling you man, it's the ignition module. Every time I have worked on these year trucks and had the problems you are describing it was the module. What color was the spark? If it was blue it's ok, if it was yellow it's too weak.

Good old Bill

Hey Reno, do as Sean says, try the ignition module. Just make sure of the color where the wires come out of it. For what ever reason it makes a difference. Blue was the most popular that I remember. Intermittent spark is just that, intermittent. Nightmare at any time, go with the experienced.

selrox

Woohoo,

Replaced the ignition control module today and it's all fixed

Teaches me to listen to you guys huh ? LOL

Anyway, I really appreciate all the input, helped me out a lot.

I'll certainly be back in the future ( let's just hope its not with problems )

Thanks again guys

Rob

Good old Bill

All of us are glad you got it going, it doesn't matter who is right or wrong. Its very hard to keep an open mind and try something contrary to your gut feeling. You survived and she is purring. Bottom line. End of story.

selrox

Well...............had it purring yesterday after replacing the ignition control module (same color code blue )
This morning It started right up, drove my grandson to school (1 mile ) and back, no problem, after being home for 30 minutes went to the store and within a mile it just died on me again.
Have it sitting by the side of the road and will wait till it cools down and see what it does.

See 2 squirts of gas going in the carb so again its getting gas.

I'm out of ideas, maybe you guys have some more..................

Thanks

Rob

Good old Bill

Was this an aftermarket module? Too many horror stories with gyppo. Is there an electrical pick-up in the distributor, inside below the rotor? Can't remember if the Dura-spark had the hall effect sensor in there or what they used. Best to wait for Sean, seen him with the right scoop alot.

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

Yes, I don't care for electrical parts that aren't Motorcraft, they don't usually work as well, but I don't think that's the problem. Since you are saying the truck runs better and takes longer to cut out than before, at least the module wasn't a total waste. It's definitely giving stronger signals than the old one, and is built with newer technology so should last longer.

So it seems everything up to the module is working fine. After the module is the coil, the coil gets power from the ignition switch and the module gives it a ground pulse to tell it when to fire. Don't go changing the coil yet, you need to check the plastic connector that hooks the wires to the coil. I have seen these melt, melt and weaken the wires and connectors and get loose causing a bad contact and intermittent firing. This would be a cheap fix depending on how you want to fix it. It may be hard to find the factory type plug, but you can use crimp wire connectors to connect them individually. If this is the problem the coil isn't getting full voltage because of the bad connection and is giving a weak spark.

1bad360r

As stated, Motorcraft parts are best.. Agreeing it could be coil saturation when the underhood temps rise.. Here is also some food for thought... Sometimes, its best to replace plugs, cap, rotor and wires also.. If you still have the stock cap and rotor, be sure to check the rotor tip for corrosion as well as the contact tips on the underside of the cap.. Also, be sure to check the battery cables for heavy corrosion.. Bad grounds will sometimes shorten the life of module.. Good luck..