Hey guys, I’m a little new to this. Few questions for you in the know. I’m close to purchasing a new travel trailer. Just under 6k dry. Tongue weight is roughly 600 lbs dry. Probably closer to 700 - 800 with batteries and propane.


My current setup is a 23 4x4 5.0 / 3.73 with locker without max tow, but with controller and 36 gallon tank. This is the info I’ve found. My plan is to upgrade the hitch to a Kurt class 4 hitch vs OEM class 4. Kurt is rated at 1k standard vs OEM at 700, weight distribution hitch, and the road active suspension. If I go gooseneck I can increase things a good amount, but can I adapt a gooseneck to a standard trailer setup? Not sure that the technical term for this is.

 

Following because I'm in the exact same boat and looking for guidance.
May I suggest you ask the same question to the Towing/ Hauling/ Plowing thread as you might have better responses.

Cheers

 

good call, just reposted over there 👍

 

That 7000lb tow rating has nothing to do with the hitch, that is strangely low, it would seem you got a truck without the tow package, as my 2022 SCREW 4x4 5.0 with basic tow package is rated at 10,300lbs towing per the app. I believe you have a truck with the optional hitch and brake controller based on the above info. That said, I don't know what your truck is lacking, possibly cooling related items. The OEM hitch is good to at least 1100 tongue, and 11,000lb trailer.

That said, if you don't mind the revving all the time nature of the 5.0 when towing heavy-ish, it will probably work fine, no RAS needed. I have run RAS and I would instead recommend some basic Hellwig helper springs if rear sag is an issue, which it shouldn't be with a quality WDH. That is the key to success here IMO, a good WDH, suitable for a trailer over 7K, going slightly heavier duty on the trailer hitch setup should be all you need.

I towed with a similar setup as you, a 2018 5,0 3.73, but with tow package, mechanically and behaviorally very similar. Oh, and the tow police are vigilant on this site, they will tell your truck can't tow anything more than a dingy and you need an F350, beware of the trolls.

 

Forget the "towing capacity" and focus on the payload. Check the yellow sticker on the driver's door frame to be sure what your truck rating is. Then start subtracting all the passenger weights (including pets), luggage, cargo, gear, etc. And then see how much is left for the trailer tongue weight (more like 15% of the loaded trailer weight for campers).

And spring boosters, like RAS or airbags, and higher class trailer hitches do nothing to increase the payload capacity.

 

I'm more then confident that your truck can tow this trailer with a good WD setup. Look into a 4 point setup. My previous 12 F150 3.5 with 1673 payload handled my trailer as posted in my sig, quite nicely and we get a lot of wind here!

 

I understand they do not increase payload, I’m looking at the RAS for reducing sag and increased stability / towing experience, which seems to be what most compliment the system for.

 

Can you post a pic of the window sticker? I agree with the above, seems like maybe the dealer added a hitch maybe?

RAS will improve the unloaded handling a little as well as reduce sag. If you aren’t leveled, a WDH should keep you from having the back lower then the front but won’t hurt anything. I rarely tow and keep the RAS on full time

 

The best way to reduce sag is a good weight distribution setup.

 

Yes, the dealer ordered it with the hitch and trailer controller. Kind of an interesting combo of options. Honestly, I wish I had the max tow but it’s not that big of a deal. I do want to upgrade the transmission cooling system. My PPE deep pan helps but not nearly as much as a proper cooler.