Three year free replacement, 8 year prorated.

 

This thread is a timely reminder. I had thought to myself, 'Make sure you start shopping for batteries; it's been over 3 years for my 22 PowerBoost (2x 12V batteries...thanks).'

I think the OP issue is a shorted cell/plate, that's the typical failure. And the symptoms jive with every failure I've seen. I did get some insight on battery manufacturing as the company I work for had a battery (automotive) division in the past. They came down to South Florida in the summer (poor bastards) to do a series of tests. As we were also in engineering, I started chatting with the team and asking technical questions. In short, the most expensive component of the battery is the lead (material, plus handling, transport, etc). So anything they can do to reduce weight, i.e, thinner plates/matrix, will reduce costs significantly. Surprisingly, the acid wasn't their primary concern. So you aren't imagining that batteries don't last as long; they're cheapening the things up to the bare minimum, and in the meantime, modern vehicles are throwing more heat and way more load at batteries.

 

I'm still on my original 2017 XLT, 80,000km, 2.7liter, battery.
I park it every winter for 5 months, pull the battery out and bring it in the house and keep it charged up.

 

Good reply to manufacturing in todays competition world.
The customer pays for it.
Same with the 10R80/120 Transmissions.
Designed out of country and parts made out of country of lesser quality materials to increase profits
Then let US engineering go as a result and not improve the problems unless really pushed by some power other than the customer.
10R80 are good for about 100k miles +/- before issues arise.
Then its about $10k to replace at Dealer charge rates.
Removing of external mounting parts, drop trans, swap over the Transfer Case, remount everything, fill with fluid, program for the Valve Body differences, road test and pay the technician and hope it works out for another 100k.
Good luck.

 

Just replace my battery on my 2021, 4 1/2 years old. I should have replaced last year but it had no problem starting. Just would not keep the memory on the seats, or heated seats or steering wheel would not turn on with remote starts when the weather turned cold. Went with motorcraft again. Parts told me to keep receipt in glove box.

 

Just for the record. My 2011 Motorcraft Battery lasted 8 years. And it never failed to start my truck. I replaced it as maintenance charging and desulfation efforts weren’t restoring the battery to the condition that satisfied me. Since 2019 I have been using the Sams Club, Duracell Group 65 Battery from East Penn Battery Company also known as Deka Battery. I have serviced this battery and desulfated it often. I will replace it with the same battery when this one needs to be replaced.

 

My 2018 with 60K is still going strong.

 

Sudden battery failure after "working just fine this morning" isn't unknown regardless of brand. Observant people might notice for example that the door locks don't work as fast as they use to. Or it takes longer to start up each time.

I'm at four years since the battery was dropped into my truck and just under four years of ownership. I have a thread that I'll keep updating. Had a week away with it sitting at the airport in freezing weather. It deep slept, barely started so I tested it it was OK, but not in the prime of life. A trickle charge made it much happier as has driving it more. Winter is tough on batteries. It may get replaced soon anyway as a dead battery is one of those avoidable breakdowns.

 

anecdotal for sure, but I changed the SOC on the replacement OEM battery I got at the end of 2023 after going for more than a year just resetting the BMS every 4-6 weeks (you won't have to look to far to find me bitching about the whole situation). So I'm past the 2 year mark on this second one. I live in Texas and take a lot of short trips, so Im probably pretty hard on batteries anyway, but I have not had a SINGLE issue with this one. I set mine to 95%, and got one of those BT battery monitors and everything has been gravy. We've already had a couple of cold snaps and it didn't flinch. Just poked my head out just now to check and it's sitting at 12.63v right this second. That's after a week of short drives to work/home for lunch , and me getting stuff out of it a couple of times already today. My old one was constantly being undercharged im pretty sure.

I personally think that Fords default strategy/settings are probably the best for the average driver statistically, but is not complex enough to properly manage outliers. If you're like me, take a lot of short trips, and a full tank of gas will last a full month some months, the default strategy just leaves the battery chronically undercharged. So there is some truth to the "you're not driving it enough" that dealers tell a lot of folks, but only because of the way Ford sets the default BMS and SOC settings under the assumption that everyone is out there driving 300 miles per week.

 

@Bluegrass I have never seen any reference to overseas involvement in the 10rxxx box. Everything I’ve seen points to a US design by Ford and GM with design starting in 2013.

I’ll admit to wishing Ford went with ZF products who I like and have over 30 years of usage of the same box.

ZF got it right. 8 speeds is plenty. Even Ford agrees as they use the ZF in trucks like the Ranger and other vehicles sold in overseas markets.