Yes, you're right in this case with the frontend work. There are other times they recommend it too, having said that, I can't remember what the other cases are.

 

So that’s gonna be my plan, to removed the half shaft. Never done it that way on previous gens but hopefully that lets me be able to do this by myself in the garage.

 

Make sure you realign all of the bushings, not just the ones you unbolted, once the car is back on its wheels.

Often, people will forget about the UCA bushings, since those bolts don't normally get loosened or removed. Once the car is back on the ground, loosen the nut until the nut and bolt turn freely, and then crank it back down.

The reason for this is that the bushings are designed to have zero torsional preload. While they can take incidental twists as the suspension flexes, they are not designed to remain twisted for a long time. Doing so will result in rapid degradation of the control arm bushing and ultimately failure.

You should also do so with the sway bar bushings normally, but I noted on this particular model, the sway bar actually freely rotates inside the bushings. As such, you might be able to get away without resetting those bushings.

The LCA bushings will automatically be reset once you remove those LCA bolts. Just ensure that the final torque is done with the wheels on the ground. You can also ask your alignment shop to loosen the bolts far enough to allow the bushing to slip into its resting position.