Battery Maintainer
Power from the hybrid battery is routed through an AC inverter before going to the bed boxes. Hooking up a DC battery charger to an AC outlet, that isn’t set up for bidirectional power, is likely a bad idea.
*edit: are you asking if you can power the NOCO charger via the bed outlets, to charge your truck’s battery? If so, that doesn’t make any sense. If you have the Powerboost, the hybrid battery already maintains the 12V battery. If you don’t have the PB, the truck needs to be running to power the outlets, at which point your alternator is charging the 12V.
*edit: are you asking if you can power the NOCO charger via the bed outlets, to charge your truck’s battery? If so, that doesn’t make any sense. If you have the Powerboost, the hybrid battery already maintains the 12V battery. If you don’t have the PB, the truck needs to be running to power the outlets, at which point your alternator is charging the 12V.
Last edited by Neversummer; May 29, 2025 at 11:01 PM.

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So...where do you think the power comes from? An Electrical Elf? In other words, no...you cannot use your battery to charge your batter.
First, what leads you to want to use a Charger?
How low is the Battery / are you having an issue?
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I ask because doing so will upset the BMS control system each time you power the charger.
When charging, the BMS has no control over the charger and the Battery State Of Charge until after some drive cycles pull the Battery down and the BMS can take control again.
Then your back to the original operating condition.
A charger just becomes an ongoing change of Band-aid.
A larger Battery does not 'really' fix an issue. All the larger Battery has is larger cell capacity in terms of Ampere-hour rating. That in itself does not fix but prolongs the same ongoing issue until it begins happening again with age or time interval.
Good luck.
How low is the Battery / are you having an issue?
.
I ask because doing so will upset the BMS control system each time you power the charger.
When charging, the BMS has no control over the charger and the Battery State Of Charge until after some drive cycles pull the Battery down and the BMS can take control again.
Then your back to the original operating condition.
A charger just becomes an ongoing change of Band-aid.
A larger Battery does not 'really' fix an issue. All the larger Battery has is larger cell capacity in terms of Ampere-hour rating. That in itself does not fix but prolongs the same ongoing issue until it begins happening again with age or time interval.
Good luck.
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What you want to end up with deserves a dedicated circuit I think. Follow the factory wiring along the frame under the truck. Tie-wrap often to protect your wires and keep them out of the way. A dedicated pair of #16 seems about right. Bigger won't hurt anything if that is what you have.
Fuse at both ends might be good? At the battery end for certain. 15 amp seems near right.












