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That is not a "programmer". That is a "clicker" which is the minimum necessary to wake a dormant newly manufactured TPMS sensor.
Then, you start hoping the "woke" sensor is heard by the vehicle which is wondering why it can't hear the previous set of sensors. Some say this can take 2 weeks. Or at the least it takes 2 weeks for the truck to start complaining about not hearing one or more TPMS sensors.
Many swear up and down the truck will magically locate each sensor to the correct corner of the vehicle but can not explain how this can happen without a directional antenna, which the TPMS controller lacks. The owner's manual outlines a procedure for partially deflating each tire until the lights flash or horn honks. This detects new sensors and assigns each to the correct corner. The clicker listed above can be used in a modified procedure which does not partially deflate tires.
Thank you for the clarification. I'm coming from a Silverado which had a tool to assign TPMS position location after rotating your tires.
Any tire shop should have a TPMS scan tool (they start at about $150 on eBay, I recommend an Autel TS-508) which can read the sensor in each wheel then plug into the OBD-II port and write the (possibly new) sensor locations into the truck. Everything will be working the moment you drive away.
Autel makes Autel MX generic programmable/clone-able TPMS sensors, about $120 for 4 on Amazon, which can be made into a Ford F-150 sensor, or a Silverado sensor, or whatever, using the TS-508 (or similar Autel tool) at the last minute. Additionally the new sensors can be given the old sensors' ESNs so the truck doesn't know the wheels were changed out from under. This can be handy if you have winter/summer wheels, the truck doesn't have to relearn new sensors.
Not sure about 23 but 22 are same as 15 and up, nothing needed when swapping set out if using factory Ford sensors, I have two sets and the truck sees the second when put on without doing anything.
This ^^^
No tool is needed. Yes, vehicles nowadays can also find LOCATION of the tire. It's magic. No tool is needed. Same type of magic is used to identify, when there are two fobs in the car, which one is in the driver's seat and which one is in the passenger's seat, and pick the driver's profile.
No tool is needed. Yes, vehicles nowadays can also find LOCATION of the tire. It's magic. No tool is needed. Same type of magic is used to identify, when there are two fobs in the car, which one is in the driver's seat and which one is in the passenger's seat, and pick the driver's profile.
The key fob detector is directional. The TPMS receiver is not.
Correct, the clicker is an "activation tool". It transmits a burst at 125 kHz strong enough for a TPMS sensor near to hear but not strong enough for the others to hear. To conserve battery for maximum shelf life new sensors are shipped in a hibernate mode which requires this 125 kHz burst to activate and wake from hibernation. When the sensor hears this it transmits a, "I heard 125 kHz wakeup" burst on 315 MHz whether it just woke from hibernation or simply was asleep from not rolling. The vehicle TPMS controller expects you do to this LF, RF, RR, RF, to assign position.
The erroneous statement, "$500 generic activator" must be referring to a proper TPMS scan tool which can actually read the contents of a sensor in addition to write the sensor ESN directly in your vehicle. Indicates temperature and battery status with some brands of sensors. Does a heck of a lot more than "activate". Bought my TS-508 on eBay for $100.
I disagree about his statement, "slow to respond indicates weak TPMS battery". I find the time to respond is random no matter the battery condition. If the sensor is asleep from not being driven it can take 30 seconds to wake. But then read it again it will respond immediately.
You wouldn't need to perform this dance with the clicker to assign wheel position if the vehicle could magically do it itself. And you don't need to do it unless you have the PSI display and want it to show PSI in the correct corner.
You do need to do this dance with brand new sensors because they are in hibernation mode and can not be shaken awake.
So, long story short, if you are purchasing new sensors for new wheels, you should order the TPMS-19 activator as well. Once the sensors have been activated, you shouldn't need the activator again going forward.
Just wanted to add some more relevant information for the 2023 owners, which will probably be applicable to the 21-22 years. I tried to look for this information everywhere online and could not get a concrete answer.
I bought a matching spare 20” wheel with matching tire and eBay TPMS sensor. I installed the tire and eBay TPMS sensor at home and just had Discount tire balance the wheel. I dropped it off at their location and later picked it up and took the wheel home to install it. Within a 10 minute drive I had the TPMS light turn ON. I took it back to Discount tire thinking they just had to “wake up” the eBay TPMS and train the sensor. However, their scanner kept saying it was the wrong sensor for my truck. So I went ahead and figured the cheap eBay sensors were a bust. I went ahead and bought one OEM TPMS sensor part number “TPMS 68” With Ford part number ML3Z-1A189-B. Before installing it on the rim, I had discount tire check it. They did and the sensor would not communicate with their scanner. They told me it was probably bad. I asked if I needed to pressurize it to get it to “wake up” and they said no. I then called the dealership and they also confirmed that I did not have to pressurize it to wake it up. So… I went ahead and installed it anyway to find out for myself. After a 5 minute drive, the sensor was instantly recognized by the truck with the proper pressure reading. I did not even have to do anything. Just air it up and drive it for 5 minutes.
so in summary,
1. Buy OEM Ford “TPMS 68” sensor part number ML3Z-1A189-B.
2. install it and air up the tire.
3. Drive for about 5 minutes and the truck will automatically recognize it.
Hope this information helps out someone in the future.