Tune ? For the pros
What’s up fellas? It’s been a while since I’ve been active here but got a dilemma and question for the professional tuners here. Prob a long shot for getting answers and I understand if you won’t help.
My truck (currently makes 700/580 to the rear)
18 rcsb 4x2 whippled coyote.
Ford aluminator block
gen5 whipple
kooks lth no cats
130mm tb
3.675 pulley
85pd whipple injectors
dw bap
dw400 pump (currently replacing it due to no starts)
93 tune but wanting e85
tuned with hp tuners
hope this is enough info.
My dilemma.
Previous tune was oz tuned before I lost pressure in cylinder 8. Hence the new block. Oz tune was wicked and I loved it. Had my local speed shop (well known mustang tuner) do the work for the new block and re tuned. Since being more a mustang tuner, he can’t get my shifts firm like oz’s tune was and I miss that. I’ve asked him if he would be ok with me going back to oz’s tune to get my firm shifts back and he said he does mind and wouldn’t have a relationship with me anymore if I did. Meaning my warranty with the block work would be gone. I respect the guy and his tune feels pretty good and I’m pretty happy with it. But I miss that 2nd 3rd gear bark lol. I think he’s using whipples software but doing it with hp tuners. Does that sound right?
My question.
Could anyone point me/my tuner in the right direction on how to firm up the shifts? Can it even be done using whipples software?
Thanks for your time if you read my whole post.
My truck (currently makes 700/580 to the rear)
18 rcsb 4x2 whippled coyote.
Ford aluminator block
gen5 whipple
kooks lth no cats
130mm tb
3.675 pulley
85pd whipple injectors
dw bap
dw400 pump (currently replacing it due to no starts)
93 tune but wanting e85
tuned with hp tuners
hope this is enough info.
My dilemma.
Previous tune was oz tuned before I lost pressure in cylinder 8. Hence the new block. Oz tune was wicked and I loved it. Had my local speed shop (well known mustang tuner) do the work for the new block and re tuned. Since being more a mustang tuner, he can’t get my shifts firm like oz’s tune was and I miss that. I’ve asked him if he would be ok with me going back to oz’s tune to get my firm shifts back and he said he does mind and wouldn’t have a relationship with me anymore if I did. Meaning my warranty with the block work would be gone. I respect the guy and his tune feels pretty good and I’m pretty happy with it. But I miss that 2nd 3rd gear bark lol. I think he’s using whipples software but doing it with hp tuners. Does that sound right?
My question.
Could anyone point me/my tuner in the right direction on how to firm up the shifts? Can it even be done using whipples software?
Thanks for your time if you read my whole post.
The gen3/10r80 had 3 possible shift “characters”. Each has its own torque transfer phase duration, firmness, and torque modulation. Stock f150 does not have an aggressive character, so unlike the Mustang you can’t just switch character and get firm shifts. Roush actually copies the Mustang shift data into the f150, but I’m not sure if Whipple does the same. If Whipple copies the Mustang shift character data, all you have to do is switch it on in the character selection table. I suspect they keep the stock data though, which I could tell easily by looking at the file.
If Whipple keeps the stock shift character data, all hope is not lost. The easiest way to firm up the shifts is to reduce the inertia phase multipliers. Stock for character 0 is typically 1.0. I’d feel comfortable reducing these to .5 to .7 and seeing if that is aggressive enough, If not you might consider copying the entire trans tune from a mustang, except shift points, and using character 2. There are some pitfalls though, because missing one table could be disastrous.
If Whipple keeps the stock shift character data, all hope is not lost. The easiest way to firm up the shifts is to reduce the inertia phase multipliers. Stock for character 0 is typically 1.0. I’d feel comfortable reducing these to .5 to .7 and seeing if that is aggressive enough, If not you might consider copying the entire trans tune from a mustang, except shift points, and using character 2. There are some pitfalls though, because missing one table could be disastrous.
Whipple doesn’t so much play a part in this. They’d rather you leave their cal alone and wouldn’t condone any tampering. It’s hptuners or Pcmtec that cracks the whipple tunes and gives you access to them and all the trans parameters.
Thanks. I’m sure I’m screwing his words up lol. I gotta go back for an e85 tune once I get my fuel system put back together. Having issues with a dw400 pump so prob gonna go back to stock until this new system comes out for our trucks called kpm
The gen3/10r80 had 3 possible shift “characters”. Each has its own torque transfer phase duration, firmness, and torque modulation. Stock f150 does not have an aggressive character, so unlike the Mustang you can’t just switch character and get firm shifts. Roush actually copies the Mustang shift data into the f150, but I’m not sure if Whipple does the same. If Whipple copies the Mustang shift character data, all you have to do is switch it on in the character selection table. I suspect they keep the stock data though, which I could tell easily by looking at the file.
If Whipple keeps the stock shift character data, all hope is not lost. The easiest way to firm up the shifts is to reduce the inertia phase multipliers. Stock for character 0 is typically 1.0. I’d feel comfortable reducing these to .5 to .7 and seeing if that is aggressive enough, If not you might consider copying the entire trans tune from a mustang, except shift points, and using character 2. There are some pitfalls though, because missing one table could be disastrous.
If Whipple keeps the stock shift character data, all hope is not lost. The easiest way to firm up the shifts is to reduce the inertia phase multipliers. Stock for character 0 is typically 1.0. I’d feel comfortable reducing these to .5 to .7 and seeing if that is aggressive enough, If not you might consider copying the entire trans tune from a mustang, except shift points, and using character 2. There are some pitfalls though, because missing one table could be disastrous.
Sorry to thread jack....
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Yeah I wish it didn’t give me the stall issue. It would fire right up after it dies. I also have the dw bap. You think 1 pump and a bap would be ok for e85? Just looking for close to 800whp then I’m done.
A single DW400 on a 22v BAP will support 800 rwhp, but most tuners won't do it.







