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Can we talk drag racing? 5.0 specific..

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Old 06-29-2016, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by deathbypsi
Oh no I never said I was hoping for 14.ohs out of mine.I think 14.50s is more realistic.

In my 12 if I tried to launch with any more rpm over idle it would want to blow the single wheel off and TC would kick in hard and kill that run. Leaving right off idle made it hook better and kept TC from interfering.I think 2.3 60fts were the best it could pull like this
I would be building rpms to roughly 1200 and use the locker. It will auto-disengage at 30mph or so. You are going in a straight line anyway, yo aren't going to do any damage. once you start off down the track, I would turn off the diff lock as it will re-engage when you go to make your turn at the end of the track.

Lot's of guys are launching in 4x4 and then dis-engaging right after launch. the shift on the fly system will disengage between shifts, but the IWE's won't likely dis-engage till your off the throttle.

Keeping it in 4x4 will kill your trap speed and hurt your ETA. I think you'll have to try a couple different tactic's and find out what really works well for your style.
Old 06-29-2016, 03:30 PM
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My 2011 and 2014 won't disengage from 4x4 until I let off the throttle and I don't let off until I cross the finish line.
Old 06-29-2016, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by deathbypsi
Oh no I never said I was hoping for 14.ohs out of mine.I think 14.50s is more realistic.

In my 12 if I tried to launch with any more rpm over idle it would want to blow the single wheel off and TC would kick in hard and kill that run. Leaving right off idle made it hook better and kept TC from interfering.I think 2.3 60fts were the best it could pull like this
Work on your 60ft time, when that drops ET really drops.
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Old 06-29-2016, 03:54 PM
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Couple things...

Why do you have the traction control on? Turn it off.

You always want to preload the suspension, its one huge advantage to autos.

You don't have to stall so high the tire is spinning, but some added rpm is going to be optimal.

You shouldn't be WOT until the truck has launched and hooked, ~2400rpm at the earliest. You should be 'feathering' the throttle so to speak. In 2wd... think stick shift car. When you launch in first, you don't just drop the hammer and floor it. A 90hp Honda will pro mod burnout like that.

One of the huge perks about launching 4wd though, is people just go out there, stall as high as they can without the truck moving forward, and then floor it and point and shoot. With some more driving skill, you can avoid all that and still launch in 2wd. Is it faster? I don't know. But it can be done.

If all you want to do is sit at the light and floor it when it turns green, 4hi is going to work better.
Old 06-29-2016, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by NASSTY
My 2011 and 2014 won't disengage from 4x4 until I let off the throttle and I don't let off until I cross the finish line.
I never looked into it too much, but I get a better 0-100 time turning it off vs. leaving it on. I assumed it was due to the transfer case dis-engaging. I can still feel the IWE's are engaged till I slow down or even come to a stop sometimes.

I'll have to compare to locking the Diff and leaving it in 2wd.
Old 06-29-2016, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by SilverSurfer15
Couple things...

Why do you have the traction control on? Turn it off.
As I stated earlier my 12 had a open diff so it would absolutely blaze the rear tire with the TC turned off. I put 22 passes on that truck in one night at Milan Dragway and tried every combination I could think of to get every last bit of ET out of it. With the TC off I had to leave so easy to keep tire hooked up it hurt the 60ft enough that it only ran 15.40s, with it turned on it ran 15.22 to 15.27 every pass.




And just to be clear I have been racing for 25 years and raced my low 11 sec 2.3 Ranger all last year till I wrecked it. Im building a new Ranger with 700hp four banger for True Street racing now.


My problem is my tracks weds nite T&T is busy and I will be lucky to get 4 or 5 passes all night. Figured I skip some of the learning curve with my new 16 by asking some of you guys what you found to be the best combinations.
Old 06-30-2016, 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by deathbypsi
As I stated earlier my 12 had a open diff so it would absolutely blaze the rear tire with the TC turned off. I put 22 passes on that truck in one night at Milan Dragway and tried every combination I could think of to get every last bit of ET out of it. With the TC off I had to leave so easy to keep tire hooked up it hurt the 60ft enough that it only ran 15.40s, with it turned on it ran 15.22 to 15.27 every pass.




And just to be clear I have been racing for 25 years and raced my low 11 sec 2.3 Ranger all last year till I wrecked it. Im building a new Ranger with 700hp four banger for True Street racing now.


My problem is my tracks weds nite T&T is busy and I will be lucky to get 4 or 5 passes all night. Figured I skip some of the learning curve with my new 16 by asking some of you guys what you found to be the best combinations.
Alright, the fastest my supercrew has hit is 13.8s, its a 5.0 with 3.55s 2wd, the best launch ive used is stalling at 1000 rpms, and easing into the throttle to avoid spinning and the rpms dipping down before going up, try stalling it, then smashing the gas, watch the rpms dip then accelerate, do it my way and thats the way ive gotten my fastest pass, and all i have is a tune, and the e-locker
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Old 06-30-2016, 02:00 AM
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IMO,if you have a E-Locker try 2wd first with a 2,000-2,200 rpm brake torque launch.If it spins try again but in 4wd,i ran my 2011 Eco Boost truck with a LS 3.55 in 2wd and 4wd ran a 14.68 both ways with the mph close on both passes.Ran my bone stock 2015 Super Cab 4X4 with 2.7L Eco Boost and 3.55 open diff only ran 2 passes with the 2,000-2,200 rpm launch in 4wd.First pass 14.81@92.93 mph and Second pass 14.56@93.07 mph.Let us know how you ran when you get a chance to race it.
Old 06-30-2016, 04:29 AM
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Seems the OP already knows the answers to his own questions right? No offence. What I don't get is 3 out of the 4 engines appear to perform almost equally on this test. Why is a 325hp 2.7 doing as well as 385hp 5.0? I know there are variables but 14.3's - 14.8's for all of them is pretty close.
Old 06-30-2016, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Canuck149
Seems the OP already knows the answers to his own questions right? No offence. What I don't get is 3 out of the 4 engines appear to perform almost equally on this test. Why is a 325hp 2.7 doing as well as 385hp 5.0? I know there are variables but 14.3's - 14.8's for all of them is pretty close.
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