2018 Whipple 5.0 Installation
#101
TOTM Sept. '18
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Attach the filler neck per the manual by removing the drivers side bolt on the stock coolant reservoir. Mount the kit's L bracket using the same bolt. Attach the filler neck to the bracket using the kit supplied screws.
Last edited by OCMike; 07-08-2018 at 12:40 AM.
#102
TOTM Sept. '18
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Attach the last intercooler hose from the filler neck to the top connection on the supercharger's intercooler nipple.
After both clamps are installed go to back to the filler neck and rotate the both clamps so the legs are facing down. This will give more clearance for the Whipple air intake we will be installing later.
After both clamps are installed go to back to the filler neck and rotate the both clamps so the legs are facing down. This will give more clearance for the Whipple air intake we will be installing later.
Last edited by OCMike; 07-09-2018 at 08:59 PM.
#103
TOTM Sept. '18
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I had a five hour power outage on Sunday so didn't get to work on the truck till afternoon. I actually did then next few items with some natural light and flashlight. So some of the pictures might look a little dark.
Next find the brake booster hose in the kit, it should be with all the hoses, that pile of hoses should be getting very small by now. My hose was too long, after a exchanging PM's with Tx-Ripper he said that yes he had to cut his off to, Just don't take too much off. So I went ahead and loped off a few inches. I'm not going to say how much. I'll leave that up you. One end goes the brake booster check valve that we "Split" near the start of the install. The other goes to the top quick connect on the front near the air inlet. After your done put a couple cable ties on it and the hose below to keep them from flopping around. I also added an Oetiker clamp to the check valve, its probably overkill because the barbs on the check valve hold it in very well.
It's finally time to remove that protective cover over the mouth of the superchanger. After removal there will be an the oring groove Find the large oring in kit, Wipe a small amount of grease on it to keep in place because the throttle is going on next.
I went for the optional 132mm throttle body that Whipple calls The Crusher, this make the kit a Stage II I believe.. If you are installing the OE throttle body I think there is an adapter plate located between the SC and the TB.
I went for the optional 132mm throttle body that Whipple calls The Crusher, this make the kit a Stage II I believe.. If you are installing the OE throttle body I think there is an adapter plate located between the SC and the TB. The big TB is held on with four bolts included with the throttle body.
Next find the brake booster hose in the kit, it should be with all the hoses, that pile of hoses should be getting very small by now. My hose was too long, after a exchanging PM's with Tx-Ripper he said that yes he had to cut his off to, Just don't take too much off. So I went ahead and loped off a few inches. I'm not going to say how much. I'll leave that up you. One end goes the brake booster check valve that we "Split" near the start of the install. The other goes to the top quick connect on the front near the air inlet. After your done put a couple cable ties on it and the hose below to keep them from flopping around. I also added an Oetiker clamp to the check valve, its probably overkill because the barbs on the check valve hold it in very well.
It's finally time to remove that protective cover over the mouth of the superchanger. After removal there will be an the oring groove Find the large oring in kit, Wipe a small amount of grease on it to keep in place because the throttle is going on next.
I went for the optional 132mm throttle body that Whipple calls The Crusher, this make the kit a Stage II I believe.. If you are installing the OE throttle body I think there is an adapter plate located between the SC and the TB.
I went for the optional 132mm throttle body that Whipple calls The Crusher, this make the kit a Stage II I believe.. If you are installing the OE throttle body I think there is an adapter plate located between the SC and the TB. The big TB is held on with four bolts included with the throttle body.
Last edited by OCMike; 07-11-2018 at 09:22 PM.
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johnday in BFE (07-09-2018)
#105
TOTM Sept. '18
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Next find the pigtail for the throttle body. It should be in the wire bag. Connect one end to the TB the other to the connection we removed from the factory TB route the cable along the top of the top IC hose then over the valve cover. Don't forget to slide in the red tab that locks the connector.
SPOILER ALERT!! I've actually finished my install and the Truck is running GREAT. I'll share what transpired because it belongs here and it might prevent some frustration for others. After I got everything done loaded the tune, the truck ran very poorly, barely ran at all actually.
The instructions said after loading the tune you might have to run a cam relearn. So I tried and it was would never finish the relearn procedure. So I called Whipple, their tech support guy said send them email explaining the problem. This was late this afternoon early evening eastern time, no call no email and as of this writing I haven't heard from them. To their defense the call went out late in the day.
The check engine light was on but I was not thinking clearly at this point. So Plan B, turn to the F150 Forum Whipple Tech Support team, AKA Tx-Ripper. He asked me what the codes were. I didn't know so I ran down to ran down to the garage and read the codes. It had a P0124, P0315 and U2110, he looked it up and got with me in a few minutes he said check the pigtail that goes to the throttle body.
So I snipped off a couple of the zip ties near where the factory connector meets the extension and pulled them apart. I found one pin was not seated and pushed back not making connections on the kit supplied pigtail. I grabbed a small pair of needle nose pliers and seated the pin. Connected it back up cleared the codes and ran the cam relearn without any issue. My only regret was I didn't snap a picture of it.
Now back to the installations!
SPOILER ALERT!! I've actually finished my install and the Truck is running GREAT. I'll share what transpired because it belongs here and it might prevent some frustration for others. After I got everything done loaded the tune, the truck ran very poorly, barely ran at all actually.
The instructions said after loading the tune you might have to run a cam relearn. So I tried and it was would never finish the relearn procedure. So I called Whipple, their tech support guy said send them email explaining the problem. This was late this afternoon early evening eastern time, no call no email and as of this writing I haven't heard from them. To their defense the call went out late in the day.
The check engine light was on but I was not thinking clearly at this point. So Plan B, turn to the F150 Forum Whipple Tech Support team, AKA Tx-Ripper. He asked me what the codes were. I didn't know so I ran down to ran down to the garage and read the codes. It had a P0124, P0315 and U2110, he looked it up and got with me in a few minutes he said check the pigtail that goes to the throttle body.
So I snipped off a couple of the zip ties near where the factory connector meets the extension and pulled them apart. I found one pin was not seated and pushed back not making connections on the kit supplied pigtail. I grabbed a small pair of needle nose pliers and seated the pin. Connected it back up cleared the codes and ran the cam relearn without any issue. My only regret was I didn't snap a picture of it.
Now back to the installations!
Last edited by OCMike; 07-10-2018 at 12:50 PM.
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johnday in BFE (07-09-2018)
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OCMike (07-09-2018)
#107
Senior Member
Glad it was an easy and simple fix.
#108
TOTM Sept. '18
Thread Starter
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Remove the factory grommet from the OE air box and install it on the kit supplied air box.
The next step should have been one of the easiest, it wasn't. The air box Whipple sends with the kit to be honest seem kind of cheap in flimsy. They send a rubber molding that you press on to the edge that is intended to seal into the hood. That molding was a SOB to get in stay on. After "F" ing with it for about 20 minutes I grabbed a block of wood and hammer and finally started to get the seal to seat into the box. After that using the factory bolt, mount it to the front fender.
I've seen pictures of Tx-Ripper's modified airbox and from what I see I think I like his setup better. I'll leave it up to him to post a picture.
The next step should have been one of the easiest, it wasn't. The air box Whipple sends with the kit to be honest seem kind of cheap in flimsy. They send a rubber molding that you press on to the edge that is intended to seal into the hood. That molding was a SOB to get in stay on. After "F" ing with it for about 20 minutes I grabbed a block of wood and hammer and finally started to get the seal to seat into the box. After that using the factory bolt, mount it to the front fender.
I've seen pictures of Tx-Ripper's modified airbox and from what I see I think I like his setup better. I'll leave it up to him to post a picture.
#109
Senior Member
Remove the factory grommet from the OE air box and install it on the kit supplied air box.
The next step should have been one of the easiest, it wasn't. The air box Whipple sends with the kit to be honest seem kind of cheap in flimsy. They send a rubber molding that you press on to the edge that is intended to seal into the hood. That molding was a SOB to get in stay on. After "F" ing with it for about 20 minutes I grabbed a block of wood and hammer and finally started to get the seal to seat into the box. After that using the factory bolt, mount it to the front fender.
I've seen pictures of Tx-Ripper's modified airbox and from what I see I think I like his setup better. I'll leave it up to him to post a picture.
The next step should have been one of the easiest, it wasn't. The air box Whipple sends with the kit to be honest seem kind of cheap in flimsy. They send a rubber molding that you press on to the edge that is intended to seal into the hood. That molding was a SOB to get in stay on. After "F" ing with it for about 20 minutes I grabbed a block of wood and hammer and finally started to get the seal to seat into the box. After that using the factory bolt, mount it to the front fender.
I've seen pictures of Tx-Ripper's modified airbox and from what I see I think I like his setup better. I'll leave it up to him to post a picture.
i had to shim mine up about an inch to an inch and a half to get it to be close to the hood.
hot air entering compounds the iat heat soak....
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OCMike (07-09-2018)
#110
TOTM Sept. '18
Thread Starter
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Thanks you!...Knowing how crappy it was running was very stressful, and I was questioning my decision to take on the job. Now zero regrets. I've only driven it a few miles, I'm really liking what I've seen so far. The drivablity seems just like stock, only MUCH faster with that wonderful whine when you get into it. I haven't noticed the shifting issue yet. I'm sure I will though.
Oh yeah...and checking the I/C coolant level daily for the next week or so.
I'll be finishing the rest of the install thread tomorrow.
Mike
Oh yeah...and checking the I/C coolant level daily for the next week or so.
I'll be finishing the rest of the install thread tomorrow.
Mike
Last edited by OCMike; 07-09-2018 at 11:20 PM.
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