2015 F150 XLT 4x4 supercrew V8 5.0l engine, 88k miles

Driving normally when I noticed the gear indicator on the dash blanked out completely. Drove a little further and the whole thing started going nuts like it was shifting through the gears, at one point it did go into neutral by itself. Managed to pull off and part but not before a good shudder and then a pungent sulfuric scent when the engine was on.

Got a tow and went to check things out today, it started and i was able to drive around the block no problem. Pulled into the driveway and let it idle around 15 minutes before it started going nuts again, this time no smell as I was in neutral and stationary.

Got a short video of what happened; the check engine light and maintenance lights both came on shortly before I killed the engine as it sounded like all the fans and kicked on. Now the sucker doesn't try to turn over at all. Battery reads 12+ volts. Took out my Aftermarket remote start unit and tried again, no dice. It's currently sitting with the battery disconnect before I try anything again.

Hoping to get a lead on what this could be. I'm not a car guy but I am mechanical/electrically inclined enough to do some troubleshooting.

Link to video
https://youtu.be/hnidnUWu5F4

 

Did you have any impacts with road debris in recent past?
Some trucks have had problems with the electrical lead frame (its a plastic frame that covers the electrical wiring inside the transmission)
Check the wiring and connection at the Digital Transmission Range selector (DTR) on the side of the transmission (I believe a 2015 has a DTR)
Charge the battery/ clean the connections and try to start. Try starting in Neutral and see if that makes any difference. During start attempts do you get a clicking sound?
Do you have any puddles under the truck?
Check coolant level in coolant reservoir, open and look inside (cold engine). Note: your video did not show any overheating but we need to start somewhere.
Do you have a transmission dip stick on this truck? If so, check see if it shows any fluid (it wont be accurate) but we are more concerned with Any fluid. If you are able to start then warm up, shift through the gears a couple of times and check fluid with engine warmed.

Disconnecting the battery has likely erased any Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) but if you can borrow a code reader I would reconnect battery, turn key On but do not start and see if there are any codes (this is a long shot since codes are likely erased).
Sounds to me like an overheating issue with trans caused by loss of cooling. I hope I am wrong.
Transmission shop may be your next destination.
Keep us informed, we all learn from each other.

 

So I'm havng tranny issues also, almost like a limp mode one time, dealer said drive it in and we can check. Drove 25 miles without issues`. Also checking around to see if the "lead frame" is available. Seams nothing available for 6 months. Im following this as to try and find more info.

 

i had a odb-II reader dongle attached but it's more a performance while the engine is on kind of thing and it didn't find any codes. Went to Harbor freight and picked up a Zurich ZR4s reader, it tells me code P0707 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Low Input and P0706 Transmission Range Sensor Vircuit Range/Performance

I had no impacts on the road with debris, just driving at highway speeds with normal conditions. Tried several times after reattached the battery to get it to start, it does nothing not even a click. Even tried a jump just to be sure it wasn't a low battery, the initial attempt did produce a turn but quickly reverted back to nothing at all when trying to start. Battery reads 13v during jump.

Also tried starting in what would be neutral but the dash indicator did not show the gear actually in N, it did detect that the transmission wasn't in park though.

Unless this is just the Sensor and doesn't involve a lot of mechanical knowledge I'll end up towing to the shop. Ideally it's something I could fix on my own but this is my daily driver so time is of the essence so I'm really leaning toward the shop.

 

Kmonnin,

It’s been a few days since you last posted. Have you resolved this issue and if so, please post the solution? Feedback is important so that we all learn solution paths to these issues.

Thanks in advance

Jimboy

 

I have a 2016 F150 5.0 V8 6r80 transmission. Mine at the exact same issues that you're having it would also throw itself in the first gear at 65 or 70 miles an hour that hurt LOL. the 6r80 transmission has an issue inside and there's a part called the lead frame everybody is having problem with those I've been urging people to go to national highway safety administration web site and file a complaint with them the force forward to do a recall some trucks are under recall but not all of them which I don't understand.
I was told by my local dealership it takes up to a year to get this part they have several of F-150s sitting on a lot since last year waiting for the part. I contacted another dealership that is local and ordered the part and then I called Ford Corporate Offices every day for 3 weeks until I got somebody who would help me I may have gotten lucky I don't know but my part was in the next day. Had my local mechanic install the lead frame and the truck has been running Perfect Since about 300 miles.. apparently there was a recall on 153,000 Ford trucks for this issue why all of them weren't recalled I couldn't tell you. But it seems like that does fix the issue 100% good luck and don't forget to go to the national highway safety administration website and file a complaint

 

I have a 2016 F-150 that would not start in P or N. Plenty of power so it was not a battery issue. Had it towed to the dealer to diagnose and they finally came with that it was the Lead Frame Assembly. Is there any programming needed when this part is replaced? from what I have seen the procedure is to drop the trans pan, remove the valve body without taking it a part then replace the Lead Frame. I have not received an official estimate of the repairs but the Ford dealer ball parked this at $2200.00 which seems really high for what needs to be done.

Any one have this procedure completed that can provide the costing for reference?

Thanks

 

I do have a step by step instructions it is not that hard from what you're saying it sounds like you got it right on the money drop the pan drain the fluid you're recruiting retaining clip for your sensors on the side of the transmission drop the lead frame out assemble it with the new one in it I will try to post the instructions that I have doable though it's not real hard

 

I do have a step by step instructions it is not that hard from what you're saying it sounds like you got it right on the money drop the pan drain the fluid you're recruiting retaining clip for your sensors on the side of the transmission drop the lead frame out assemble it with the new one in it I will try to post the instructions that I have doable though it's not real hard















I hope that's what you need I hope it helps if not contact me I'll see what I can find for you

 

Thanks, so it sounds like it is plug and play with no programming needed for this part.
It seems like a rather straight forward job for what they are quoting for a price which left me scratching my head.

Thanks for the guidance.