Torque Specs
has left the building
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 9,647
Likes: 3,421
Most important is torque on the hub nut.
I don't know what it is, it's changed in years. Make sure to get the correct depth and torque to either 25lbs or 35lbs. Rest of the stuff just needs to be tight.
Look up a YouTube video channel called Master Jack or something like that. He has the install of IWE and labels torque values on the screen.
It's preferred to torque UCA and LCA while vehicle is on the ground if possible.
Also refer to FordTechMakuloco on Youtube for how-to's. I think his torque specs are out of date as he uses older vehicles as his demo videos.
I don't know what it is, it's changed in years. Make sure to get the correct depth and torque to either 25lbs or 35lbs. Rest of the stuff just needs to be tight.
Look up a YouTube video channel called Master Jack or something like that. He has the install of IWE and labels torque values on the screen.
It's preferred to torque UCA and LCA while vehicle is on the ground if possible.
Also refer to FordTechMakuloco on Youtube for how-to's. I think his torque specs are out of date as he uses older vehicles as his demo videos.
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 31,747
Likes: 12,569
From: Nowhereville, Barton City Michigan
Just took out my coilovers, seems ,
Tierod to knuckle was 85#
UCA balljoint to knuckle, 85#
Upper strut mounts, 50#
Lower strut mounts 65#
Swaybar endlink top nut 65#
Spindle nut, 25-30#, make sure your IWE meshes before torquing down, or you'll bust things.
Mounting bolts for the IWE, I can't recall, I know it isn't much, 30# with red locktite sounds about right. Don't bank on that though.
Last edited by johnday in BFE; Mar 5, 2020 at 07:01 PM.