Thanks Sean, The reason that I thought that the wires above the speedcable wasnt the VSS is because I watched some video on youtube about changing the vss and the guy just unscrewed it out of the trans with a rench and explained the importance of not screwing to to far back in and tighten the nut on the sensor shaft to hold it a hair out.

So this isnt the same setup that I would be looking to deal with?

 

The VSS on the trans is held in just like the speedometer gear housing. There's a clamp that holds the housing in, and the sensor is part of the housing that the cable screws to.

 

So meaning, inorder to remove the sensor ill also have to remove the speedcable?

 

Well, when you remove the bracket that clamps the housing to the tranny it can be removed from the tranny, but you will have to unhook the cable from it to completely remove it from the truck.

 

Ok sounds simple enough.

My truck has been down in power the last couple months. This was the first time that I ever pulled the codes and now working at getting them cleared back up, maybe it will feel alittle better in it performance. Ran like it was still new till the misfires started then became alittle sluggish.

 

Can the egr be removed and reinstalled with using the same gasket. I am still pondering if it is safe to clean the egr with carb cleaner. It may well need it?

 

It depends on how the gasket comes off and its current condition. They're made of a mushy lead like material, so they can sometimes be reused. Carb cleaner will be fine.

 

Noticed that You and Aliens ate my cow havent been on the forums lately.

Hey, as always, I appreciate your help!

Maybe now that I have some lead way, Ill get these problems resolved.

 

...amazing how when the word EGR comes up, so does my name!

I had my EGR valve off and on a million times - only changed the gasket when I bought a new one. You can get the gasket at your local parts store for about $1 just to be safe.

Just my 2 pennies here - pull the EGR valve, flood it with carb cleaner and watch the black stuff ooze out. While it's off, check the orifice in the intake (where the EGR bolts on). It might be clogged too. I had to use a small screwdriver to chisel and dig all the crap out. Also, while it's off, put the sensor back on and connect a short vacuum line. Suck on the vac line to see if the valve moves freely.

Based on the conflicting codes stating high/low voltage at the EGR sensor, I'd bet on a sticking valve. If cleaning it doesn't free it up, a new one might be in order. Don't assume that a new one is a miracle cure - my first new one stuck open the first time I drove it!