2011 3.5L Ecoboost, 115K miles

Was running a little uneven at wot so I started with spark and changed plugs and coil packs. No change. So I moved to air side...changed MAF. No change. Next I changed the MAP on top. Suddenly it's throwing codes P0098, P0106, P0108...all MAP related, and a MAP psi of 6.8-7 at 670rpm.

What? So I put the old MAP back in, same codes. Then I installed another new MAP. Same codes.

Then I decided to change the other MAP on the tube. It was oily so I got my hopes up...same codes. I checked vacuum lines and don't see anything.

I don't understand how replacing a sensor with a new one will make codes fly up. Am missing something?

Note: with each replacement I disconnected battery for more than 15 minutes to reset the computer and deleted codes on scan tool. I also have a new boost vacuum solenoid but haven't installed, and a catch can uninstalled.

 

Do a tug test on the wires at the connector of the map sensor. One may be broken inside the insulation.

 

I cleaned the connector with electric contact cleaner and inspected the wires external of the plug. It appears ok.

 

Update. I found the TCV wires frayed and had enough wire to cut and replace with new connector. The codes have moved to permanent status (pita), but there's still no power over idle, and still 7psi map. No new codes.

I'll pickup and install a new MAP connector later today, even though there are no codes.

Thanks in advance for any ideas.

 

Have you read idle MAP reading in the past? Does your MAP read +-?
My own boost gauge reads +- boost in PSI, and at idle around -8 PSI. If I add the ambient air pressure 14 PSI, to get MAP it should read about 6 PSI at idle. Manifold Absolute Pressure is ambient pressure +- vacuum/boost.
There are 3 MAP sensors on an Ecoboost. Each supplies specifically used signals. KM

 

6-7psi is probably normal. It’s an absolute pressure sensor so without the engine running you would see something close to 14.7 or whatever the atmospheric pressure is in your area. And engine running with a vacuum would show anywhere below 14.7. In boost would show above 14.7. With key on engine off compare MAP, Baro and Throttle inlet pressure and if they are all close in pressure there’s probably no concern with the sensor.

 

Solved: Connector clip was broken and connector was slipping enough to cause codes.

Update: I didn't install new MAP connector, but did install a 3rd MAP sensor FoMoCo, as they arrived same time. No codes and running smoothly up to 3000rpm, sitting in driveway. Haven't load tested yet.

MAP reading between 5.5 and 5.7 at 680rpm. Foot off pedal from 3000rpm caused MAP 2.5 and rough engine for a moment, finding it's way back up to 5.5 at idle. This repeated several times.

 

Since I finally found the problem that was throwing codes and throwing me off, I've done 2 warm ups. No codes. Driveability is back to where I was in the beginning of this thread. To summarize, low performance at wot acceleration. Changed: coils, plugs, air filter, MAF, TMAP on top, MAP on tube.

So now I've moved to fuel side. Getting 190-200psi @ idle. Increased to 900psi during half pedal acceleration to 3000rpm. When I take my foot off, the engine almost dies for a second, and then searches for 640rpm.

Running Techron through with 1/4 tank now.