diy obd 1 scan
#1
the real Chuck Norris
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diy obd 1 scan
i know on the older gm cars you can do a obd 1 scan with a paper clip (the CEL blinks to let you know what the code is), but is there a way i can do one on my 93 f150 with a 300 straight 6? i get a CEL when im crusing down the e-way and i let off of the gas. also is there any way i can scan to see what is causing the ABS and BRAKE light to come on? they only come on when its really cold out, and they always come on together. if any one has any good info for me it would be greatly apreciated. thanks!
#3
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Never have done the paper clip thing, so can't vouch for the accuracy - but here's a couple of posts that describe the procedure. Let us know how things work out.
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44736
http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44736
http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=13
#5
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ok i did the test as soon as i started the truck i got a 3, after about 30 seconds i got a 1 about 30 seconds later the light kinda flickered like it was trying to decide if it wanted to come on or not. after that i got codes
412, Cannot control RPM during KOER high RPM check
538, Insufficient RPM change during KOER dynamic response test
536, Brake On/Off (BOO) circuit failure/not actuated during KOER
632, Transmission Control Switch (TCS) circuit did not change states during KOER
do those make any sence to any one? i couldnt find a description of codes 3 or 1 so im in the complete dark with those
412, Cannot control RPM during KOER high RPM check
538, Insufficient RPM change during KOER dynamic response test
536, Brake On/Off (BOO) circuit failure/not actuated during KOER
632, Transmission Control Switch (TCS) circuit did not change states during KOER
do those make any sence to any one? i couldnt find a description of codes 3 or 1 so im in the complete dark with those
#6
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Not familiar with the test procedure for the '3-digit' coded vehicles.
On my '2-digit' coded vehicle (spell that 'older') - there are places during the test procedure for the KOER portion where the steering wheel is to be rotated, the brake pedal hit, and the accelerator pedal stomped briefly to the floor.
Suggest that at least the last three of your listed codes may have something to do with the tester (that's you) not performing the expected function???
I think the '3' and '1' are things such as an engine code or other non-fault indications.
On my '2-digit' coded vehicle (spell that 'older') - there are places during the test procedure for the KOER portion where the steering wheel is to be rotated, the brake pedal hit, and the accelerator pedal stomped briefly to the floor.
Suggest that at least the last three of your listed codes may have something to do with the tester (that's you) not performing the expected function???
I think the '3' and '1' are things such as an engine code or other non-fault indications.
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#8
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From: http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3eeccodes.html
KOER Test
Set up as mentioned above, but start the car and run it at 2000 rpm for a couple of minutes. This thoroughly warms up the oxygen sensors. Shut down, jumper the STI and Signal Return pins, and immediately restart the car. The KOER test will begin. During this test these things will happen:
KOER Test
Set up as mentioned above, but start the car and run it at 2000 rpm for a couple of minutes. This thoroughly warms up the oxygen sensors. Shut down, jumper the STI and Signal Return pins, and immediately restart the car. The KOER test will begin. During this test these things will happen:
- You will get the engine ID code on the Check Engine light (3 pulses for 6 cylinders).
- The EEC will try to get its sensors to go to the extremes of their ranges. The car will run very poorly at times during this portion of the test. It lasts for 6 to 20 seconds.
- The motor will smooth out and idle. You will see a single flash of the Check Engine light.
- After this flash, you have 10 seconds to turn the wheel both ways, hit the brake, and snap the throttle wide open, enough to get the engine above 2000 RPM, release the throttle, and let the engine return to idle. This is called the "goose test". If you have an automatic, you should also turn the overdrive on and off during this phase of the test.
- The EEC will flash the Check Engine light to indicate any KOER on-demand codes it has found at the moment of the test. All codes are presented in sequence twice. If you didn't run the goose test right, it will flash 77 and you will repeat the goose test.
- You an optionally run the SEFI or Cylinder Balance test. Lightly tap the throttle (no need to go to WOT) and release it. The system will cut the injector to each cylinder, looking for an expected drop in RPM. No drop means a problem with that cylinder. A code of 1-6 identifies a cylinder found to be weak. A code of 9 means all OK, 77 means run the test again.
#9
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i looked every where, why can you find that but i cant lol. thank you. after i get my running around done tonite ill redo the KOER test correctly. every thing i read and saw said nothing about the wheel turning, the gooseing or the over drive switch, i stand very corrected.
#10
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Ah, no worries. It took me a little bit of scrounging around to dig that link up - the web search engines are sensitive to which keywords are used, and in what order.