Steve83

You can't diagnose any electrical issue until you've eliminated the battery terminals. And as those captions explain, NEW battery terminals are not the same as GOOD battery terminals. Read them, post pics of yours, and check what those captions describe.You originally said that was a guess - have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it now to see that the pump is running?Homemade videos may not explain the procedure correctly. The caption of that pic links to the actual procedure from the Ford service manual, so read it.

Clifton Scruggs

I wi'll be going to buy more battery terminals Friday and see if it makes a difference, and the fuel pump is an all or nothing thing it's either gonna work or not right? When.It cranks it's good fires right up with no problem but once it idles for a min it starts dying out then dies. After it shuts off you hear the fuel pump relay clicking, which was replaced and still does it, and the fuel pump itself still going like it's still priming or trying to put fuel in. I was told to try the replacing the fuel pump regulator that's located by the fuel rails and also a fuel pump modulator, they sand since my truck.is showing amps signals and battery issue that the modulator could have shorted out and I read they had problems with them.going out. The fuel pump regulator sounds like the closes thing to what my truck sounds like when.It dies off so far but makes no sense that the amps and battery lights are on because of somethi g like that right? It wouldn't keep my relay or fuel pump on after it's shut off would it? The code reader is going to be hard for me so I'm gonna try the self test option and try and find the codes while I look for a code reader. But I'm very lost when it comes to the electric aspect of vehicles. I'm trying not to have to have it towed to a shop to actually figure it out :/

Clifton Scruggs

I have also.looked at the terminals in the pics and to u are right I bought the bad one that's are popular. But the thing is that it is firing up fine would I really lose power like that and it would be showing me amps and battery stuff cause of New battery post?? Would it keep my fuel pump priming and the relay clicking?

Steve83

Why? READ those captions. STOP replacing parts until you KNOW what the problem is. Many problems can simply be FIXED - without replacing anything.People who tell you to replace parts withOUT doing any diagnosis know less about your truck & its problems than YOU do. If you want to own, drive, & maintain this truck (which is the only way you can afford to keep something this old running), buy AND READ the Haynes manual.


(phone app link)No such thing on any Ford of any year with any engine or any number of tanks. Ever.Who suggested that? READ that caption, and pull codes yourself. Code readers are NOT reliable on these trucks. None of them, at any price, of any brand.

Clifton Scruggs

I get it. Ill check the codes the sself test way. Can I ask do you have an actual guess to what it could be? Cause a mechanic, certified is saying it could be my computer which is easy enough to replace but said as soon as I plug up a scanner I'll know If it's busted or not. Plus your self test seems hard because my truck won't stay cranked for a long amount of time and won't be able to heat up like the self test ask it to.

Steve83

Then he's certified guessing, which is something you can do without any certifications. And his guess is worthless without any diagnosis. That's why I try NOT to guess about your truck - I haven't diagnosed it. I'm trying to get YOU to diagnose it because, if you have to keep paying for certified guesses, you won't be able to afford to keep the truck.If it won't warm up, then it won't. Do the rest of the test. You can keep doing that test as many times as you want, so you're sure you're reading the flashes correctly.

Clifton Scruggs

I understand man, will the test keep running if it dies out?

Steve83

KOEO means Key On Engine Off - it can't be running for that test anyway. If it's running the test will be KOER - don't do that test right now.

Clifton Scruggs

so the key just needs to be on and run the test that way without cranking it right? Follow the Haynes manual and preform the test with out starting the truck and get the codes.After that would you like me to post the codes for more help?

Steve83

Haynes has a basic explanation of how to do those tests - the captions I linked you to above contain the FULL procedure from the Ford service manuals. Did you read them?

Yes, if you don't understand what a code definition means, post the code number AND the complete definition for EACH code you read. DO NOT start ordering parts just because they happen to be mentioned in a code definition, and don't start pulling parts off the truck, or disturbing the wiring. Messing with it can cause the fault to become intermittent, which makes it MUCH harder to pinpoint. But the first step for any code is to confirm that the indicated condition actually exists.