Clifton Scruggs

Truck runs smooth when I crank it up and starts right up with no problem but it'll run for a min then start blinking a code with the check engine light and the amps signal starts constantly blinking. I drove it about a he to get it home and then it started to do this after I bought it. People are saying alternator, her valve, bad relay or maybe even ground. Battery is brand new with new terminals. Once it dies you can here a clicking spound like something is switching on and off super fast I'm guessing the fuel pump and I though things like that are relays. Idk what to really do so any advice would be amazing thank you.

DarrinT04

definitely sounds like a bad alternator if you hear a repeated clicking sounds. you need to have it tested

Clifton Scruggs

I cchecked the alternator, unplugged the battery while it was running to see if it stay running and it stayed for a min then dies out and still does the clicking. I'd it was bad it die right then right a sign of power lose?

DarrinT04

if the alternator is bad, the battery would not charge, and once the battery runs out nothing will work until it is recharged. i didn't think of this earlier, it may just be spiking in voltage

Clifton Scruggs

like a short? Maybe a bad distributor? I'm just lost and don't have a obd1 reader or it make it easier can't leave with it cause it dies. It's like it's being flooded cause the fuel pump and relay won't stop. Reason it keeps cutting out. Fuel sending unit maybe?

BareBonesXL

How long have you had it? How long is a "he"? How long have you been trying to fix it? Not clear. Doesn't sound like battery or alternator. And the pump relay and or pump can't cause "flooding". There is no fuel sending unit.

Might be a good idea to figure out the code - "it'll run for a min then start blinking a code with the check engine light". Good luck.

Steve83

It can't blink a code until you put it into self-test mode, as this caption explains:


(phone app link)

There's another link in that caption with the full list of codes & complete instructions on how to read them (withOUT any scanner).It's almost certainly BAD BATTERY TERMINALS. I've fixed 2 local Broncos with VERY-similar symptoms recently (one by phone) that turned out to only need the battery terminals repaired. One stalled in traffic; the other killed its battery repeatedly, and exhibited a fast-clicking module in the dash when it was going dead. Click this & read all the captions:


(phone app link)

The alternator can't create ANY of the symptoms you described, no matter how bad it goes. Neither can the fuel pump, or any of the other guesses.

Clifton Scruggs

it can not be battery terminals either they were replaced with the battery yesterday brand new and good connection it fires right up with no issue but like I said it starts going through it's set up and it dies with the relay clicking repeatedly and the fuel pump staying on constantly trying to pump fuel cause it sounds like it's being flooded and dying off the dash lights indicate it's def a electrical issue I'll watch the videos I've seen for the codes and get back to yall, and the guy that said something about the sending unit, there is a sending unit module in the back, saw the part and everything.

Clifton Scruggs

I was thinking maybe an egr valve but idk if it have issues with amps and battery and all that, why would the fuel pump and fuel pump relay not click off. New relay, new ignition, new battery new starter cylinoid new terminals. I drove it an hr. To get it home it was rough on the crank cause of a lot of that but it made it then it started throwing those signals after I made it back and won't stay cranked, meaning something shorted out or burnt up or busted on that ride home

DarrinT04

the egr valve has nothing to do with it
do you know somebody that has a code reader? that will really help us out here. the guessing is not doing us no good here