2011 Ford F-150 XLT Fuel Tank Replacement
#1
2011 Ford F-150 XLT Fuel Tank Replacement
I figured since Im using this site quite a bit to find answers to my truck questions, it was about time I submitted something useful. I just finished successfully replacing my fuel tank. Heres what I did:
Fuel tank replacement.
Tools:
-Socket Set
-Battery Terminal: 8mm sccket,
-Fuel Tank Straps: 13mm socket
-Socket extension
-Flat tip screwdriver
-Rubber mallet
-Grease(reseating filler neck)
-floor jacks-3
-1 hydraulic(middle front)
-2 manual(outsides)
-4x4(for across manual floor jacks)
-Hand Pump(empty full tank) (Lowes: item# 34415 model DH-10)
-5 Gal bucket
-2 full gas cans
Parts:
-Fuel pump mounting gasket (P/N: 9417)
-Fuel pump retaining flange O-Ring (P/N:9C385)
-Fuel Tank(P/N:9002)
-Replacement Fuel Tank Straps(P/N:9092)*
-Skid Plate(P/N:9A147)*
-O-Ring-Possibly (filler neck)
*I replaced the factory installed fuel tank straps with the ones ford makes that supports thier fuel tank skid plate, listed above. Not necessary to replace the fuel tank.
Steps:
1) Disconnect Battery cables from terminals(tool:8mm socket)
2) Slide the floor jack under the rear of the F-150 and raise the jack up until the head is touching the bottom of the gas tank.
3) Open the fuel door and disconnect the fuel filler neck flange(P/N: 27936) with the socket set. This was necessary to give enough slack for the fuel filler neck later in the process.
http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/Pa...rd&model=F-150
4) Unbolt(13mm socket, double extension) the fuel tank retaining straps(P/N:9092) and allow them to hang.
http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/Pa...rd&model=F-150
5) Lower the fuel tank slowly with the floor jacks, while your helper holds the tank steady. Once it has come down a few inches, reach in and disconnect the wiring harness to the fuel pump (P/N: 9H307) and the fuel lines(L tubes).
a) Remove the electrical wires (fuel pump and sensor) from their connections.
b) Use a screwdriver to remove the fuel line hose clamp on the fuel inlet line (or pliers if it has a spring clamp).
c) Plug the fuel line with a bolt or rag tip to avoid leakage.
d) Disconnect the fuel vent hose at the tank.
e) Press the red release button to release the secondary hose running in from the fuel neck flange to the fuel tank.
f) On the top of the tank, near the front, theres four white clips that secure the fuel lines to the top of the tank(snap fit). Unsnap the fuel lines from those retainers so that the tank can be lowered.
g)The green fuel inlet on the top-front of the fuel tank has a red connector that is released by pushing two clips together on one side and out the other.
6) Disconnect the fuel filler neck (P/N: 9034) at the tank connection.
a) Remove the large hose clamp on the rubber hose at the base of the filler neck tube.
7) Lower the tank the rest of the way down, making sure none of the lines or filler neck are interfering with the tank removal, and slowly guide the tank backwards and out from underneath the F-150. You may need your helper for this.
8) Pick the tank up off the jack and set it aside.
9) Note the direction and placement of the fuel pump.
10) Use a rubber mallet and wide nose dull chisel to tap the fuel pump retaining ring in a counter-clockwise direction (P/N:9C385). You can see where the tabs of the fuel tank are to drop down through the retaining ring once lined up correctly.
11) Tap the chisel with the rubber mallet to loosen the ring(P/N: 9C385) so you can remove the fuel pump with some force. I was doing this too lightly, and it took forever. Switch back and forth from side to side much like tightening a tire.
12) Insert the pump into the new tank, with a new rings (P/N:9417 & 9C385).
13) Raise the tank up until you can reconnect the fuel lines, wiring harness and filler neck.
14) Raise the tank all the way and then pull the retaining straps back into position and reinstall the retaining strap bolts.
15) Reinstall the filler neck flange in reverse of how you removed it.
16) Connect the ground, battery cable using the wrench.
17) Turn the ignition key to the "On" position for three seconds to let the fuel system build pressure. Then turn the key to the "Off" position. Repeat the cycle six times to make sure the system has enough pressure.
18) Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.
Fuel tank replacement.
Tools:
-Socket Set
-Battery Terminal: 8mm sccket,
-Fuel Tank Straps: 13mm socket
-Socket extension
-Flat tip screwdriver
-Rubber mallet
-Grease(reseating filler neck)
-floor jacks-3
-1 hydraulic(middle front)
-2 manual(outsides)
-4x4(for across manual floor jacks)
-Hand Pump(empty full tank) (Lowes: item# 34415 model DH-10)
-5 Gal bucket
-2 full gas cans
Parts:
-Fuel pump mounting gasket (P/N: 9417)
-Fuel pump retaining flange O-Ring (P/N:9C385)
-Fuel Tank(P/N:9002)
-Replacement Fuel Tank Straps(P/N:9092)*
-Skid Plate(P/N:9A147)*
-O-Ring-Possibly (filler neck)
*I replaced the factory installed fuel tank straps with the ones ford makes that supports thier fuel tank skid plate, listed above. Not necessary to replace the fuel tank.
Steps:
1) Disconnect Battery cables from terminals(tool:8mm socket)
2) Slide the floor jack under the rear of the F-150 and raise the jack up until the head is touching the bottom of the gas tank.
3) Open the fuel door and disconnect the fuel filler neck flange(P/N: 27936) with the socket set. This was necessary to give enough slack for the fuel filler neck later in the process.
http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/Pa...rd&model=F-150
4) Unbolt(13mm socket, double extension) the fuel tank retaining straps(P/N:9092) and allow them to hang.
http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/Pa...rd&model=F-150
5) Lower the fuel tank slowly with the floor jacks, while your helper holds the tank steady. Once it has come down a few inches, reach in and disconnect the wiring harness to the fuel pump (P/N: 9H307) and the fuel lines(L tubes).
a) Remove the electrical wires (fuel pump and sensor) from their connections.
b) Use a screwdriver to remove the fuel line hose clamp on the fuel inlet line (or pliers if it has a spring clamp).
c) Plug the fuel line with a bolt or rag tip to avoid leakage.
d) Disconnect the fuel vent hose at the tank.
e) Press the red release button to release the secondary hose running in from the fuel neck flange to the fuel tank.
f) On the top of the tank, near the front, theres four white clips that secure the fuel lines to the top of the tank(snap fit). Unsnap the fuel lines from those retainers so that the tank can be lowered.
g)The green fuel inlet on the top-front of the fuel tank has a red connector that is released by pushing two clips together on one side and out the other.
6) Disconnect the fuel filler neck (P/N: 9034) at the tank connection.
a) Remove the large hose clamp on the rubber hose at the base of the filler neck tube.
7) Lower the tank the rest of the way down, making sure none of the lines or filler neck are interfering with the tank removal, and slowly guide the tank backwards and out from underneath the F-150. You may need your helper for this.
8) Pick the tank up off the jack and set it aside.
9) Note the direction and placement of the fuel pump.
10) Use a rubber mallet and wide nose dull chisel to tap the fuel pump retaining ring in a counter-clockwise direction (P/N:9C385). You can see where the tabs of the fuel tank are to drop down through the retaining ring once lined up correctly.
11) Tap the chisel with the rubber mallet to loosen the ring(P/N: 9C385) so you can remove the fuel pump with some force. I was doing this too lightly, and it took forever. Switch back and forth from side to side much like tightening a tire.
12) Insert the pump into the new tank, with a new rings (P/N:9417 & 9C385).
13) Raise the tank up until you can reconnect the fuel lines, wiring harness and filler neck.
14) Raise the tank all the way and then pull the retaining straps back into position and reinstall the retaining strap bolts.
15) Reinstall the filler neck flange in reverse of how you removed it.
16) Connect the ground, battery cable using the wrench.
17) Turn the ignition key to the "On" position for three seconds to let the fuel system build pressure. Then turn the key to the "Off" position. Repeat the cycle six times to make sure the system has enough pressure.
18) Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.
Last edited by trailtorn; 01-28-2013 at 12:03 AM.
The following users liked this post:
SD_F1504x4 (11-28-2021)
#4
People need to replace their fuel tanks for a number of reasons. Punctured while off roading, vandalism, etc. I put this up so that if anybody needs to, they have the benefit of knowing exactly how and what tools to use.
The tank size wasn't an upgrade. I replaced it with the part number you see given on one of the links above.
The tank size wasn't an upgrade. I replaced it with the part number you see given on one of the links above.
#5
hey guys,
great write up. I have a few questions on how to disconnect few things. On ALLDATA it says to disconnect the EVAP lines from the quick disconnect. how do i disconnect them? also it says 1st we need to release the pressure in the fuel lines by unplugging the FCM and run the truck till it stalls. however I cannot reach my FCM due to pair for propane tanks, how can i release the pressure another way?
how far down can I lower the tank once i have it on a jack and i remove the straps? are the wires long enough same as the filler tube etc etc?
great write up. I have a few questions on how to disconnect few things. On ALLDATA it says to disconnect the EVAP lines from the quick disconnect. how do i disconnect them? also it says 1st we need to release the pressure in the fuel lines by unplugging the FCM and run the truck till it stalls. however I cannot reach my FCM due to pair for propane tanks, how can i release the pressure another way?
how far down can I lower the tank once i have it on a jack and i remove the straps? are the wires long enough same as the filler tube etc etc?
#6
Senior Member
I changed my pump out a couple months ago and followed this write up. I didn't have to release any pressure and it went really well. I did use 2 floor jacks so I could drop the tank evenly.
I would use PB Blaster on the bolts before I removed them. It took about 2 1/2 hours from start to finish.
I would use PB Blaster on the bolts before I removed them. It took about 2 1/2 hours from start to finish.
The following users liked this post:
SD_F1504x4 (11-28-2021)