'01 brake problem
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Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Texas
'01 brake problem
Hey guys, this is my second vehicle, manual tranny. 2001 f150 supercab xl sport 2wd.
I had taught myself standard, I've gotten it down but my problem is when I first started I wasn't accustomed to always using the parking brake, and have drove with it set once or twice and I think it ****ed something.
It squeaks when I brake and sometimes when I'm just driving, but not constant. Front left tire is where its coming from. When it's wet from rain it's quite though.
I was thinking maybe the caliber is loose or something? Pad feels fine.
What should I be checking, and how? I'd really like to fix this before it messes up something else.
I had taught myself standard, I've gotten it down but my problem is when I first started I wasn't accustomed to always using the parking brake, and have drove with it set once or twice and I think it ****ed something.
It squeaks when I brake and sometimes when I'm just driving, but not constant. Front left tire is where its coming from. When it's wet from rain it's quite though.
I was thinking maybe the caliber is loose or something? Pad feels fine.
What should I be checking, and how? I'd really like to fix this before it messes up something else.
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Henderson, NV.
Driving with parking brake on will not affect the front brakes. Parking brake is only the rears.
Pull off wheel and inspect the pads for wear, inspect rotors for grooves, should be none. Brake noise is common but not to be forgotten. You should inspect. Could be routine, pads could be down near the squealers, alerting you of a pending problem.
Pull off wheel and inspect the pads for wear, inspect rotors for grooves, should be none. Brake noise is common but not to be forgotten. You should inspect. Could be routine, pads could be down near the squealers, alerting you of a pending problem.
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See the metal tab in the upper right hand corner of this pic? When the pads wear down, this tab contacts your rotor surface creating a squealing noise. Kinda a warning for you to replace your pads. Maybe this is what you are hearing? If it is, you REALLY don't have many miles left till you have metal to metal contact(rotor and pad metal)
How long have you had this truck? Have you done any preventative maintenance, or just waiting for stuff to break? Get a Haynes manual for your truck and follow the Routine Maintence suggestions in it. The $20 you spend on the manual will save you hundreds!
How long have you had this truck? Have you done any preventative maintenance, or just waiting for stuff to break? Get a Haynes manual for your truck and follow the Routine Maintence suggestions in it. The $20 you spend on the manual will save you hundreds!
Last edited by sharptp; Dec 14, 2010 at 12:26 PM.
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Who needs arrows Bill,
Here's a double layer photoshop with a high lighted circle.
See the metal tab in the upper right hand corner of this pic(in the circle). When the pads wear down, this tab contacts your rotor surface creating a squealing noise. Kinda a warning for you to replace your pads. Maybe this is what you are hearing? If it is, you REALLY don't have many miles left till you have metal to metal contact(rotor and pad metal)
Here's a double layer photoshop with a high lighted circle.
See the metal tab in the upper right hand corner of this pic(in the circle). When the pads wear down, this tab contacts your rotor surface creating a squealing noise. Kinda a warning for you to replace your pads. Maybe this is what you are hearing? If it is, you REALLY don't have many miles left till you have metal to metal contact(rotor and pad metal)
Last edited by sharptp; Dec 14, 2010 at 09:45 PM.
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From: chattanooga, TN
Take a good look at the brake calipers. Get underneath the truck if necessary and use a bright flashlight. Look inside the calipers and estimate the distance from the metal backing of the pads to the disc/rotor. If the distance is 1/8" or less, it is time to replace the pads. Failure to replace pads before they wear down to metal is an expensive mistake. A pad replacement with disc turning and metallic brake pads will cost approximately $50.00 (you doing the work). If the pads wear down to the metal, you're looking at triple that amount, or more, depending on the hub/rotor type.
Like the earlier poster wrote, get yourself a Haynes manual for your model from a local auto parts store and follow directions for replacing the pads. You'll save a bundle and gets lots of satisfaction too.
Good luck
Like the earlier poster wrote, get yourself a Haynes manual for your model from a local auto parts store and follow directions for replacing the pads. You'll save a bundle and gets lots of satisfaction too.
Good luck
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If you do need new pads, make sure whatever brand you choose include the new metal rattle clips. Some do and some don't. If you do not get those new metal clips, it's kinda like replacing rear shoes without installing new hardware(springs, clips, etc) for them. These metal clips are under great temps causing fatigue(loose their ablitlity to keep the pads in place)
And be sure to clean all parts extremely well, especially your caliper brackets. Those new front pads should drop in easily if everything is clean.
And be sure to clean all parts extremely well, especially your caliper brackets. Those new front pads should drop in easily if everything is clean.
Last edited by sharptp; Dec 15, 2010 at 05:17 PM.
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From: Texas
Originally Posted by Good old Bill
Driving with parking brake on will not affect the front brakes. Parking brake is only the rears.
You should inspect.
Originally Posted by sharptp
Maybe this is what you are hearing?
How long have you had this truck? Have you done any preventative maintenance, or just waiting for stuff to break? Get a Haynes manual for your truck and follow the Routine Maintence suggestions in it. The $20 you spend on the manual will save you hundreds!
I've done your common inspections; tire pressure, fluid check, etc. But I've never had any problems, just by listening, till this.
Originally Posted by sharptp
See the metal tab in the upper right hand corner of this pic(in the circle). Maybe this is what you are hearing
Originally Posted by jonquil
Take a good look at the brake calipers.
Like the earlier poster wrote, get yourself a Haynes manual for your model from a local auto parts store.
Originally Posted by sharptp
If you do need new pads, make sure whatever brand you choose include the new metal rattle clips.
And be sure to clean all parts extremely well.
Sorry for the lost post, and thanks to everyone for helping out! I'm obviously not any good with mechanical engineering.
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Didn't know that, thanks for the info!
I'll take a look at it this Saturday, my day off.
Should I be hearing it when I drive? It's light squeaking, not constant.
(calipers/pads will maintain slight contact at all times, so yes)
I've had the truck for maybe 3 months, bought personal, only had one previous owner. Put about a rough estimate of 10k.
I've done your common inspections; tire pressure, fluid check, etc. But I've never had any problems, just by listening, till this.
I don't know if this is a stupid question but would the tab be noticeable if I took off the tire and checked?
(sure, but also if the tab is in contact with the rotor, your pad thickness will be about 1/8 and will need to be replaced, and as one poster said it will cost you bigger bucks to replace the pads and rotors if you let it go)
Will do.
Yeah, I've been meaning to get one but I was waiting until I had to go to an auto store. Should o'rielly have it? One's right down the road.
(Most likely, I don't have a O'Rielly's in my area)
I'll be sure to remember that.
Another dumb question; with what?
(Brake cleaner, in a spray can, it leaves no oily residue and dries almost immediately. The theory on the brake cleaner is, Pad dust is harmful to your lungs, put something on the ground like a trash bag or pan to catch the brake cleaner/pad residue. To clean the caliper bracket use a wire brush, light taps with a hammer to remove the rust scale on the bracket. Grease the slide pins(caliper bolts) if the caliper is unable to slide/float when the brakes are applied, it causes weak or uneven braking(only one pad contacting one side of the rotor) and the one pad that does make contact will wear out quicker than the other one.)
Sorry for the lost post, and thanks to everyone for helping out! I'm obviously not any good with mechanical engineering.
I'll take a look at it this Saturday, my day off.
Should I be hearing it when I drive? It's light squeaking, not constant.
(calipers/pads will maintain slight contact at all times, so yes)
I've had the truck for maybe 3 months, bought personal, only had one previous owner. Put about a rough estimate of 10k.
I've done your common inspections; tire pressure, fluid check, etc. But I've never had any problems, just by listening, till this.
I don't know if this is a stupid question but would the tab be noticeable if I took off the tire and checked?
(sure, but also if the tab is in contact with the rotor, your pad thickness will be about 1/8 and will need to be replaced, and as one poster said it will cost you bigger bucks to replace the pads and rotors if you let it go)
Will do.
Yeah, I've been meaning to get one but I was waiting until I had to go to an auto store. Should o'rielly have it? One's right down the road.
(Most likely, I don't have a O'Rielly's in my area)
I'll be sure to remember that.
Another dumb question; with what?
(Brake cleaner, in a spray can, it leaves no oily residue and dries almost immediately. The theory on the brake cleaner is, Pad dust is harmful to your lungs, put something on the ground like a trash bag or pan to catch the brake cleaner/pad residue. To clean the caliper bracket use a wire brush, light taps with a hammer to remove the rust scale on the bracket. Grease the slide pins(caliper bolts) if the caliper is unable to slide/float when the brakes are applied, it causes weak or uneven braking(only one pad contacting one side of the rotor) and the one pad that does make contact will wear out quicker than the other one.)
Sorry for the lost post, and thanks to everyone for helping out! I'm obviously not any good with mechanical engineering.
Last edited by sharptp; Dec 15, 2010 at 03:11 PM.